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English or italian - Page 2

post #16 of 20
Quote:
Firstly, I assume you are talking about Brioni, if not please ignore the rest of the post. About runway shows: have you seen a Brioni show? --- they are actually not fashion shows nowadays.  There are two elements in a Brioni show: 1) a presentation of a specific fabric --- like the Super 220s they acquired from Australia in 2000, 2) a presentation of their sideline businesses (Sforza coats, etc.).  So if we are talking about suits, Brioni technically does not put up a fashion show for suits.  They still cut their suits pretty much the same way in most collections --- as they are mostly custom orders anyway, either from a bespoke client or from a department store.   Similarly, you will not see Gucci bespoke suits on the runway, which are partly made in the Zegna Napoli Couture workshop. Zegna, on the other hand, (the regular Zegna at least) is quite a fashion house; so you'll find us mentioning Zegna very little on this board.  Regular Zegna = Gucci (in my opinion). I think Thracozaag was confused about how you put tailoring houses and designers together.  For example, please find similarities between Valentino and Brioni?  Most designers adhere to the Milanese style, and Florence is still reserved as a leather capital.  None of Gucci's clothing line is produced in Florence.  Of course Florentine leather goods deserve another thread of its own altogether. As Mr. Harris mentioned, diversity of styling goes beyong country borders.  One could spot a Huntsman suit at a distance, but you will find plenty of 'copy-cats' of Anderson & Sheppard's soft tailoring style even in Italy, and the tailors of A&S had not changed their styles for the past 40, 50 years.   "I find Italian much better mainly due to the fit, and cut. Brit is way too sactorial, and it feels like it is suposed to fit a penguin.  Also not a fan of the spread collar, but the Milanese collar is the pinical of excelence. Actulally I realy do not like Roman suiting such as Valentino and Birroni. But love Milanese (Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Prada), Napolian (Ermenegildo Zegna), and Florentine (Gucci)." Again, the defining element goes way beyond country borders.  However, one important thing is to always compare apple to apple.  Never compare an Amies bespoke suit with a Versace suit.  And by the way, (excuse my ignorance) what is a Milanese shirt collar?
I do know this however, perhaps runaway was not the best word to use, perhaps a catalouge for the season hence not just a tailoring co. because some tailoring companys do not even have that.  Sure the cut is basicaly the same but the fabric is allmost as important. I think that you will find that in the UK and Italy they are not always custom made, we have a store, which sells pre made Birroni suits. Gucci Bespoke also has a catalouge, which they show you in the store when you buy one. Valentino and Bironi, let me first say allthough the quality can not be compared, there styling is very similar, I am speaking of fabric mainly here, which I assume you are ignoring. And also as you yourself said most designers adhere to Milanese style, Birroni and Valentino are some of the only exceptions On the last Gucci suit which I purchased the label was as follows: Tom Ford for Gucci. Handmade in Florence, Italy So unless this is a lie, I belive some Gucci suits are made in Florence. Some others do just say Made in Italy Actualy I was not comparing, I was merely giving examples for those who were not familiar of the brands of the region. A Milanese shirt collar is, basically a semi cutaway collar with very pointed tips, I will try and get you a picture. (Bad description..)
post #17 of 20
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Birroni
Perroni + Brioni??? Wow, a suit made entirely out of beer...Homer's dream.
post #18 of 20
Thread Starter 
It is said that the Italians steal what the British invent, stylize it and sell it back to them. This inherently true with suiting. So my question is, Is the original model for the suit which has a military background the style that one prefers or what the suit has elvoved to be, with softer lines and more drape?
post #19 of 20
Quote:
I do know this however, perhaps runaway was not the best word to use, perhaps a catalouge for the season hence not just a tailoring co. because some tailoring companys do not even have that.  Sure the cut is basicaly the same but the fabric is allmost as important. I think that you will find that in the UK and Italy they are not always custom made, we have a store, which sells pre made Birroni suits. Gucci Bespoke also has a catalouge, which they show you in the store when you buy one. Valentino and Bironi, let me first say allthough the quality can not be compared, there styling is very similar, I am speaking of fabric mainly here, which I assume you are ignoring. And also as you yourself said most designers adhere to Milanese style, Birroni and Valentino are some of the only exceptions On the last Gucci suit which I purchased the label was as follows: Tom Ford for Gucci. Handmade in Florence, Italy So unless this is a lie, I belive some Gucci suits are made in Florence. Some others do just say Made in Italy Actualy I was not comparing, I was merely giving examples for those who were not familiar of the brands of the region. A Milanese shirt collar is, basically a semi cutaway collar with very pointed tips, I will try and get you a picture. (Bad description..)
I think we are talking about different things. About the Milanese collar, please do get us a picture. I am curious.
post #20 of 20
Could someone kindly describe a bit about these different suit styling, and also other major schools of tailoring not mentioned? If you have pictures that would be much appreciated.
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It's difficult to group it by country like that - there are huge differences between say, Anderson & Sheppard (drape cut,) H. Huntsman (military precision,) Brioni (Roman style,) Saint Andrews (Milanese style,) Stefano Ricci (Florentine style,) and Isaia (Neopolitan style.) There are endless other variations as well. Each house has it's own preferred cut or cuts.
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