I know Gucci`s styling is Milanese, but Gucci is sitll made in Florence, not Milan. My main point was I do not like the Roman styling as much as the others. They are all fashion houses, with the exception of Birroni, which is also a taliloring firm, aswell as a fashion house, because it presents a runaway collection, hence a fashion house not just a tailoring firm, Â
I think the reason you think some of them are merely tailoring firms is because Birroni and Zegna`s collections are not normaly showcased at fashion weeks. Nonetheless they still do have collections
Firstly, I assume you are talking about Brioni, if not please ignore the rest of the post. About runway shows: have you seen a Brioni show? --- they are actually not fashion shows nowadays. Â There are two elements in a Brioni show: 1) a presentation of a specific fabric --- like the Super 220s they acquired from Australia in 2000, 2) a presentation of their sideline businesses (Sforza coats, etc.). Â So if we are talking about suits, Brioni technically does not put up a fashion show for suits. Â They still cut their suits pretty much the same way in most collections --- as they are mostly custom orders anyway, either from a bespoke client or from a department store. Â Similarly, you will not see Gucci bespoke suits on the runway, which are partly made in the Zegna Napoli Couture workshop. Zegna, on the other hand, (the regular Zegna at least) is quite a fashion house; so you'll find us mentioning Zegna very little on this board. Â Regular Zegna = Gucci (in my opinion). I think Thracozaag was confused about how you put tailoring houses and designers together. Â For example, please find similarities between Valentino and Brioni? Â Most designers adhere to the Milanese style, and Florence is still reserved as a leather capital. Â None of Gucci's clothing line is produced in Florence. Â Of course Florentine leather goods deserve another thread of its own altogether. As Mr. Harris mentioned, diversity of styling goes beyong country borders. Â One could spot a Huntsman suit at a distance, but you will find plenty of 'copy-cats' of Anderson & Sheppard's soft tailoring style even in Italy, and the tailors of A&S had not changed their styles for the past 40, 50 years. Â "I find Italian much better mainly due to the fit, and cut. Brit is way too sactorial, and it feels like it is suposed to fit a penguin. Â Also not a fan of the spread collar, but the Milanese collar is the pinical of excelence. Actulally I realy do not like Roman suiting such as Valentino and Birroni. But love Milanese (Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Prada), Napolian (Ermenegildo Zegna), and Florentine (Gucci)." Again, the defining element goes way beyond country borders. Â However, one important thing is to always compare apple to apple. Â Never compare an Amies bespoke suit with a Versace suit. Â And by the way, (excuse my ignorance) what is a Milanese shirt collar?