A Proper Trench

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

Can somebody give me advice on getting a proper trench coat for the rain? Before everybody tells me to go to Burberry I'd like to know if there are better options. Furthermore I would like it to be very classic in style. I see a lot of trenches in the city and I am kind of overwhelmed by the variety. If I only have one trench what should it be? Thanks a bunch.

Renault78law · Feb 27, 2013

RTW or are you having Frank make something up for you? As far as styling, I'd say the following details are classic:

Double breasted
Caped
Belted waist and cuffs
Epaulets
Calf length

AE7 · Feb 27, 2013

Lining? Removable lining?
Colour?
Gun patch?

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

Can frank make a raincoat? I never thought to ask him... Are there raincoat fabric books?

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

I guess a removable lining would be useful...

YRR92 · Feb 27, 2013

I'm no expert, but I think the removeable lining is a good thing. I really dislike raglan sleeves on raincoats, too -- maybe it's because I'm thrifting, but I find that they have this weird late '80s womenswear vibe. That might just be because mine is that age and is cut for the broad jacket shoulders that were in fashion.

Holdfast · Feb 27, 2013

Trench coats are tricky beasts. I love them in theory, but have three and am not really fully satisfied with any of them. I'd swap them all for a "perfect" one, but I am too miserly to pay the asking price for one of those custom trenches. Such is life.

The closest to my ideal is the Aquascutum Kingsgate style (example, from a random ebay auction). It actually pretty much matches Renault's list, but adds in a couple of other things I like, which is that it be pure cotton but with a waterproof treatment, and the flap at the front. It's also the right colour: dirty beige/khaki. I actually own a Kingsgate, but it's a 36 and they run at least one size big, even with a suit underneath, so ideally I need a 34. Even then it would be a bit big at the waist, though I suppose it's possible to get it taken in.

(I also have a white/cream shorter length single-breasted Aquascutum with the trench style details, the fit of which I prefer to the Kingsgate, but its colour is such that I really only wear it rarely, and generally only with navy suits. And I've an Ede single-breasted too, though that's more of a regular raincoat than trench coat style.)

Renault78law · Feb 27, 2013

Mine, which I think is as classic as they come, is blue (not quite navy), with a light brown tattersall lining and a matching removable lining. Gun patches too, though I didn't know thats what they're called - mine are flapped and button, is that the same? I think they compliment the cape well.

AE7 · Feb 27, 2013

Nice summary and pics.
http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/trench-coat-guide/

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

Holdfast said:
Trench coats are tricky beasts. I love them in theory, but have three and am not really fully satisfied with any of them. I'd swap them all for a "perfect" one, but I am too miserly to pay the asking price for one of those custom trenches. Such is life.

The closest to my ideal is the Aquascutum Kingsgate style (example, from a random ebay auction). It actually pretty much matches Renault's list, but adds in a couple of other things I like, which is that it be pure cotton but with a waterproof treatment, and the flap at the front. It's also the right colour: dirty beige/khaki. I actually own a Kingsgate, but it's a 36 and they run at least one size big, even with a suit underneath, so ideally I need a 34. Even then it would be a bit big at the waist, though I suppose it's possible to get it taken in.

(I also have a white/cream shorter length single-breasted Aquascutum with the trench style details, the fit of which I prefer to the Kingsgate, but its colour is such that I really only wear it rarely, and generally only with navy suits. And I've an Ede single-breasted too, though that's more of a regular raincoat than trench coat style.)

That is a very nice one. I have tried thrifting raincoats because they are so low priority to me, but I only find insanely wide and insanely short ones. I hate the short raincoats I see these days, makes no sense because your trousers still get soaked.

Holdfast · Feb 27, 2013

Renault78law said:
Mine, which I think is as classic as they come, is blue (not quite navy), with a light brown tattersall lining and a matching removable lining. Gun patches too, though I didn't know thats what they're called - mine are flapped and button, is that the same? I think they compliment the cape well.

Yeah, when I posted "right colour" in my post, I meant purely for my own internal/idealised archetype of a trench coat, which conjures up mental images of WWI khaki. Navy is perfectly acceptable in terms of aesthetic appeal, it's just not what I want from a trench. I don't know if any branches did use navy trenches, but even if they did, it's still not my personal "mind's eye" trench. Great colour for a raincoat (and for an overcoat), though.

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

I agree on the khaki. Very classic, although I have seen these olive ones that I kind of liked as well.

patrickBOOTH · Feb 27, 2013

Vox just sent me this, which is amazing, and, well Burberry, but still awesome...

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=20348&cat=612&page=1

imatlas · Feb 27, 2013

I picture you in a single breasted "flasher" style raincoats.

edmorel · Feb 27, 2013

A trench is one of those things that I can never wear and have never seen someone wear one where it made me want to wear one.

A Proper Trench

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