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A Proper Trench - Page 2

post #16 of 173
2/27/13 at 8:11am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

I picture you in a single breasted "flasher" style raincoats.

Double breasted is better for flashing. The wrap keeps you warmer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

A trench is one of those things that I can never wear and have never seen someone wear one where it made me want to wear one.

Well, I will admit I have owned lower quality ones in the past and have always ended up selling them on ebay. I love the functionality and the fact that I can keep more of a crease in my trousers when wearing one, but the issue is when it rains and I am out walking in a trench I sweat profusely so the feeling of being in one is horrible. I am just getting so sick of soggy trousers I might have to yet again, suck it up and pull the trigger on one.
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post #17 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Vox just sent me this, which is amazing, and, well Burberry, but still awesome...

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=20348&cat=612&page=1

That's a nice one; pretty much identical in broad style details to the Aq. Kingsgate, I think. For me personally, it's a couple of shades too pale. I think that's Burberry's "khaki" colour, but IIRC they also do a "honey" which is much closer to the colour I prefer in a trench.

 

Trenchs are even more annoying to size right than overcoats though, so if you buy online make sure there's a returns policy and you're happy to put up with that hassle if you need to.

 

BTW, I'm surprised you get sweaty in a trench; at least I never have. Maybe you're a faster/more energetic walker than me. I don't think that's just a cotton v manmade thing; I know my Kingsgate is pure cotton, but I think one of the other raincoats I own may (can't remember for sure) be a cotton-rich blend, but even with that, it's fine. Just steer clear of the old-fashioned plasticky kinds of raincoat & you should be fine, I'd say.

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post #18 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:24am
Nice to have friends in high places! I've never been a big fan of tan raincoats, though I acknowledge that it is probably the most proper color. I don't like the collar of the ones you guys referred to. I'll post a picture of mine this afternoon, you can have at that.
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post #19 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Are there raincoat fabric books?

You could probably find something serviceable in the Loro Piana Storm System book. Though I have to think it costs a pretty penny.

The only time I've seen one bespoke was at Nino Corvato's shop. He used cotton gabardine which he Scotchguarded.

I asked him how waterproof it was (since the seams weren't taped, etc.) and he just shrugged.
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post #20 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:45am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

You could probably find something serviceable in the Loro Piana Storm System book. Though I have to think it costs a pretty penny.

The only time I've seen one bespoke was at Nino Corvato's shop. He used cotton gabardine which he Scotchguarded.

I asked him how waterproof it was (since the seams weren't taped, etc.) and he just shrugged.

Yeah, I was thinking maybe cavalry twill. I don't think a business raincoat needs to be 100% perfectly waterproof. It is not like you are going to be standing in pouring rain for 8 hours.

Holdfast, I am a greasy guinea as it is, so the breathability issues of the rain coat make it worse.
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post #21 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Are there raincoat fabric books?

You could probably find something serviceable in the Loro Piana Storm System book. Though I have to think it costs a pretty penny.

The only time I've seen one bespoke was at Nino Corvato's shop. He used cotton gabardine which he Scotchguarded.

I asked him how waterproof it was (since the seams weren't taped, etc.) and he just shrugged.


Perfect reply from Corvato. I'm not even kidding; I love that answer.

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post #22 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yeah, I was thinking maybe cavalry twill.

That would be warm. Not a bad thing but something that would bother me.

If you'd consider that, why not something like a 13 / 14 oz tweed? You could always scotchguard it and that will help.
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post #23 of 173
2/27/13 at 10:54am
Thread Starter 
Yeah, but then we are getting into, "Why not just wear by overcoat?" The cotton gab with scotch sounds like a pretty good idea. I'm not so sure if Frank can, or is willing to do a removable flannel liner or anything though. I think I am set, at least, on the design of the Burberry one. I like that if I get one made have more options for color.
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post #24 of 173
2/27/13 at 11:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

(I also have a white/cream shorter length single-breasted Aquascutum with the trench style details, the fit of which I prefer to the Kingsgate, but its colour is such that I really only wear it rarely, and generally only with navy suits.

The Anne Hathaway

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Can somebody give me advice on getting a proper trench coat for the rain? Before everybody tells me to go to Burberry I'd like to know if there are better options. Furthermore I would like it to be very classic in style. I see a lot of trenches in the city and I am kind of overwhelmed by the variety. If I only have one trench what should it be? Thanks a bunch.

I really liked the navy Grenfell one that used to be on the Armoury's site.
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post #25 of 173
2/27/13 at 11:24am
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Holdfast, I am a greasy guinea as it is, so the breathability issues of the rain coat make it worse.

 

Hey, I have plenty of Greek genes in me ; that Mediterranean heritage comes with a price!

 

Still, even so, I'm sure you'll be fine with a normal pure cotton trench that doesn't have any weird fancy rubberised coating.

 

Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

(I also have a white/cream shorter length single-breasted Aquascutum with the trench style details, the fit of which I prefer to the Kingsgate, but its colour is such that I really only wear it rarely, and generally only with navy suits.

The Anne Hathaway

nod[1].gif I knew folks would remember it.

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post #26 of 173
2/27/13 at 3:16pm

Kent Wang has a very minimalist trench: http://www.kentwang.com/outerwear/trenchcoat-navy.html

 

It's currently only available in navy, but he's considering producing it in khaki as well.

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post #27 of 173
2/27/13 at 3:27pm
I have also been in search of the perfect trench for some time now. Unfortunately, no luck as of yet, but I did stumble upon this rib-tickler:

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post #28 of 173
2/27/13 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Vox just sent me this, which is amazing, and, well Burberry, but still awesome...

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=20348&cat=612&page=1

I've got a Burberry just like that one, purchased from eBay UK quite a few years back.

The outer layer is 100% cotton (whereas most Burberry trenches nowadays have a blended fabric) and it came with a button-in, camelhair liner for colder weather.

Given that daytime temps in winter here rarely go below 15 degrees celsius, I've never yet used the liner!

It is a brilliant coat and, whilst expensive, should last a lifetime.
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post #29 of 173
2/27/13 at 3:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yeah, but then we are getting into, "Why not just wear by overcoat?" The cotton gab with scotch sounds like a pretty good idea. I'm not so sure if Frank can, or is willing to do a removable flannel liner or anything though. I think I am set, at least, on the design of the Burberry one. I like that if I get one made have more options for color.

 

Let us know what Frank says- I'd be interested to hear his reaction.

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post #30 of 173
2/28/13 at 1:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

...I've an Ede single-breasted too, though that's more of a regular raincoat than trench coat style.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

I really dislike raglan sleeves on raincoats...
The single-breasted fly-front raglan-sleeve raincoat (which Holdfast has sometimes depicted in WAYWRN) is a classical style which has been around since the 1930s (it used to be referred to as the slip-on style) and is certainly not a late 1980s invention or fashion. I see it as a style for light rain, the true trench-coat being better for more "serious" rain.
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