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Style of new jacket.

post #1 of 14
2/26/13 at 3:10pm
Thread Starter 

Hi all!

 

On friday I need to decide which style I would like for a new jacket I'm getting done. I don't know the name of the fabric, I just picked that up cause I like it. If I'm not wrong it is Super 130's wool. Blue with maroon windowpane. Estitches (in stitches) has a jacket with a similar design, but his is cashemere. 

 

What I don't know is if make it single breasted or double brested. I really want a double brested jacket but I I think it would look very nice as a single breasted. 

 

If it were double breasted I would like something like these (design is like that but in blue):

 

 

 

 

And if it were single breasted, I would like something like these, maybe not with peak lapels but you get the idea: 

 

(Sorry for using you pic as an example Espú! biggrin.gif)

 

 

 

 

Or if you have a recommendation, it is welcome!

 

Thanks in advance!


Edited by Betelgeuse - 2/26/13 at 3:22pm
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post #2 of 14
2/26/13 at 3:18pm
That word you're looking for is "windowpane."

Third pic is glen check with windowpane

http://www.voxsartoria.com/post/34258092556/check-your-checks
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post #3 of 14
2/26/13 at 3:31pm

If you like it, go double breasted. I think you can pull it off smile.gif

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post #4 of 14
2/26/13 at 4:15pm
If you do go double-breasted, I would go with peak lapels as well.
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post #5 of 14
2/26/13 at 4:23pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

If you like it, go double breasted. I think you can pull it off smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

If you do go double-breasted, I would go with peak lapels as well.

If I go with double breasted it definitely would have peak lapels. What is the standard measure for peak lapels? I like big lapels smile.gif

Shoulder they only have to options natural or roped. They don't know how to do a bald shoulder style :/
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post #6 of 14
2/26/13 at 6:22pm
I would go SB unless you're 100% sure that the tailor has an eye for DBs. Far from all do.
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post #7 of 14
2/26/13 at 7:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

That word you're looking for is "windowpane."

Third pic is glen check with windowpane

http://www.voxsartoria.com/post/34258092556/check-your-checks

I knew what it looked like but not that it was called "glen check with windowpane" (makes sense now that I've heard it). Once again I learn something new every day - thanks for sharing!
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post #8 of 14
2/26/13 at 8:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post

I knew what it looked like but not that it was called "glen check with windowpane" (makes sense now that I've heard it). Once again I learn something new every day - thanks for sharing!

Actually I think according to Vox's link it's Prince of Wales in a funky color set
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post #9 of 14
2/26/13 at 10:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Actually I think according to Vox's link it's Prince of Wales in a funky color set

Strictly speaking, the POW check only comes in one colorway (as Vox's link makes clear). You're right in a way, though, since most people use the term to mean glen check.

Old thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/146643/prince-of-wales-check-plaid
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post #10 of 14
2/27/13 at 5:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post

I would go SB unless you're 100% sure that the tailor has an eye for DBs. Far from all do.

 

This. Or rather, be sure that your tailor's preferred DB cut matches your preferences. I think this is even more important for a DB odd jacket rather than a suit, and even more so for a fairly bold windowpane. They're very tricky beasts to get right and the difference between what you have in your mind's eye, and what is created, can be very large, much moreso than with SB jackets IMO.

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post #11 of 14
2/27/13 at 7:56am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post

I would go SB unless you're 100% sure that the tailor has an eye for DBs. Far from all do.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 

This. Or rather, be sure that your tailor's preferred DB cut matches your preferences. I think this is even more important for a DB odd jacket rather than a suit, and even more so for a fairly bold windowpane. They're very tricky beasts to get right and the difference between what you have in your mind's eye, and what is created, can be very large, much moreso than with SB jackets IMO.

 

I would never have considered that. Question: How can I know if the tailor's DB cut matches my preferences? shog[1].gif

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post #12 of 14
2/27/13 at 10:41am

Take a look at the DBs he's cut for other people and/or pics of the house DB style. You can get a good idea of their general style and/or precision of their cut from that. Do you like what you see? If so, you'll probably be happy with the result. Of course, the details can - and should - be adjusted to suit the person, but I don't really believe in pushing someone too far out of their comfort zone, even should they be willing to try. People tend to be best at doing what they're most familiar with. You'll probably just end up either being somewhat unhappy with the end product or having to go through a zillion fittings and feel fed up with the overall process otherwise.

 

You could interpret the above as my being somewhat undemanding or somewhat over-demanding, depending on which end of the telescope you look through, but there it is anyway.

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post #13 of 14
2/27/13 at 10:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

Take a look at the DBs he's cut for other people and/or pics of the house DB style. You can get a good idea of their general style and/or precision of their cut from that. Do you like what you see? If so, you'll probably be happy with the result. Of course, the details can - and should - be adjusted to suit the person, but I don't really believe in pushing someone too far out of their comfort zone, even should they be willing to try. People tend to be best at doing what they're most familiar with. You'll probably just end up either being somewhat unhappy with the end product or having to go through a zillion fittings and feel fed up with the overall process otherwise.

 

You could interpret the above as my being somewhat undemanding or somewhat over-demanding, depending on which end of the telescope you look through, but there it is anyway.

 

Thanks Holdfast... you nailed it. Cause I think that one of my mistakes when I tried this new tailor, I didn't ask to try a garmet he already finished and with my single breasted jacket it has been a very large process. I bouhgt it on november and I wtill don't have the jacket. I asked for a remake, they did, on friday they are going to make some adjustments to the jacket, mainly sleeve lenght and some shoulder adjustments. So I will ask them if they have a DB jacket I can try on... if they don't have one, I think I would have to stay with the SB jacket. 

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post #14 of 14
2/27/13 at 11:12am
I'd think long and hard about it before going DB. Isn't especially useful since it's so idiosyncratic.

Not a problem if you already have a ton of stuff but something worth considering for the rest of us.
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