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post #16 of 28

3/5/13 at 11:58pm

XKxRome0ox

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VinnyMac

A lot of rtw pants don't have enough space in the crotch IMO. I end up with a bulge.

TMI ...

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post #17 of 28

3/6/13 at 8:05am

newyorknoir

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VinnyMac

A lot of rtw pants don't have enough space in the crotch IMO. I end up with a bulge.

I get that too but following the advice of one of the members on this forum I size up in the waist, alter anything out of proportion elsewhere and it solves the bulge problem.

post #18 of 28

3/11/13 at 8:32pm

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Ennius

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I am about 6"1' so i dont really need to make my legs look longer. A long 11' rise looks very sloopy on me in the crotch and is rather uncomfortable, too. The Tom Browne pants style just dont work for me. My tailor basically told me the same thing and suggested trying italian designers which tend to have lower rises.

I have found that phineas cole/paul stuart have only about 9' rise and work better for me. Just wish they had sales more often.

I am coming to see the value of benchmade clothes...

post #19 of 28

3/11/13 at 11:38pm

Nicola

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You're talking about rise like it's an objective absolute number. I'm shorter then you but a 10" rise would be low rise for me. 11 I guess would be at my natural waist.

post #20 of 28

3/12/13 at 12:33am

biged781

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JackAndy

I like Express's wool pants. I've had one pair for 10 years now and they're only starting to get a little fuzzy where the crotch rubs together. You'd be surprised by the quality of their 100% wool pants. They also have the little rubber knurlings in the waistband that help your shirt stay tucked in. But the rise is very low, so low you'd have difficulties wearing boxers with those pants. The other option is to check out some ladies pants. Sometimes the only difference between ladies pants and mens pants is the rise. Unless you are in pretty good shape, it won't be very flattering. If you have any gut at all, it'll just exaggerate it. If your lower body isn't chisseled it might look like you are exploding out of those low rise pants.

...I don't even...

post #21 of 28

3/12/13 at 7:43am

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Ennius

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Nicola

You're talking about rise like it's an objective absolute number. I'm shorter then you but a 10" rise would be low rise for me. 11 I guess would be at my natural waist.

I think rise is a certain measure roughly from the bottom of the beltline to where the two different leg seams meet? That is basically how my tailor showed me how to measure it.

I guess my waist has a shorter rise versus your average person, given the same height. I suppose I could pull up my pants PeeWee Herman style, but its very uncomfortable and doesnt really fit right for me. Thus I can live with legs that appear shorter (as they are). The Phineas Cole trousers fit well and I think look decent. If I got benchmade trousers, I think I would still wind up with about a 9 inch rise, as thats how my body measures...

I have heard American designers tend towards longer rises than European designers, on average (but not for all, of course). Ultimately I guess one needs to find a designer that roughly fits their body and then tailor it well?

post #22 of 28

3/12/13 at 7:55am

gyasih

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Ennius, you are correct. That is the best way to measure rise.

post #23 of 28

3/12/13 at 8:01am

Superfluous

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I have pants from all over the place, however, I tend to buy high rise, pleated pants such as Polo Ralph Lauren Dalton model by Corneliani for pairing with sport coats, and I tend to wear shorter rise, flat front or maybe single reverse pleated for work, etc. without a jacket on such as Ralph Lauren Black Label, Polo Ralph Lauren Preston Model, etc.

Someone mentioned Paul Stuart pants... I bought a pair of Phineas Cole pants (that I happened to wear last night), that were a 34 tailored down to about a 31 without touching the thighs yet the thighs are still a bit tight. I'm not sure how a true size 34 would have fit in those thighs, however, I still like the pants a lot.

post #24 of 28

3/12/13 at 8:02am

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Quote:

Originally Posted by vncrz

I'll take advantage of the momentum of this thread to ask the opposite - what's a good slim fitting OTR trouser with a higher rise (ie at the natural waist, close to the navel in my case)? I recently purchased a pair from Epaulet which off the rack has a higher rise than the pair of Howard Yount pants I have, but unlike those HY didn't have any excess fabric to be let out at the crotch area. I'm thinking about something like the following, in terms of rise and slimness (not necessarily pleats):

This is a great picture.

post #25 of 28

3/12/13 at 9:59am

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Ennius

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Can anyone comment on the stylistic differences on longer versus shorter rises?

It does appear that American designers prefer longer rises while European designers (especially Italian) tend towards lower rises, at least that is my initial read.

When a designer is considering a new look, any idea how they think about rise as part of the overall design process? It certainly seems that Mr. Browne likes the PeeWee Herman pants look...

I think the same question would apply if you get benchmade trousers/suits - how do you want the rise to look/feel? Start with your basic body share and then perhaps push it a bit one way or another for style preferences?

But in buying trousers in the future one of my first questions will be what is the rise.

post #26 of 28

3/12/13 at 10:23am

Trompe le Monde

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ennius

Can anyone comment on the stylistic differences on longer versus shorter rises?

It does appear that American designers prefer longer rises while European designers (especially Italian) tend towards lower rises, at least that is my initial read.

When a designer is considering a new look, any idea how they think about rise as part of the overall design process? It certainly seems that Mr. Browne likes the PeeWee Herman pants look...
I think the same question would apply if you get benchmade trousers/suits - how do you want the rise to look/feel? Start with your basic body share and then perhaps push it a bit one way or another for style preferences?

But in buying trousers in the future one of my first questions will be what is the rise.

you can't generalize an entire continent. there are stylistic differences from maker to maker, region to region, time period to time period. the rise is not a drop from a fixed point on your waist, its the height of the rise on your waist away from the crotch. and it is relative to the rest of your clothing - whether you like to wear things tight or loose, short or long, clunky or trim. theres no magic number. its a matter of shapes and proportions.

fwiw, i like 10-10.5 on denim and chinos. 10.25-10.75 on formal trousers. that fits my body and my choices in dress

post #27 of 28

3/13/13 at 8:23am

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