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Classically-proportioned Armani(ish) deconstructed jacket

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Lately I've been thinking about modern, explicitly industrial clothing, so Armani obviously springs to mind. My tailor does soft garments well, but won't do deconstructed, industrially-finished stuff ("if you want a shirt jacket it's not worth coming to me", "that sort of stretchy cloth is not suitable for traditional tailoring", etc.). Besides, the point of Armani-esque jackets is supposed to be precisely the overcoming of the need for bespoke patterns and hand work. And what I find most disagreeable about a lot RTW stuff is precisely the fake sartorial detailing. But the problem is this: Armani's silhouettes follow the fashion of the time. The jackets were big-shouldered and droopy when he made his name, and they're pretty skinny and short now. I don't like either extreme. Does anyone make a classically-proportioned deconstructed jacket? Did Armani ever do them? Apols for the probably naive questions, but this isn't something I've thought about much until now.

Clarification: I'm not talking about the many unlined coats one finds today (Boglioli etc.). Those are a lightened version of classical tailoring, and they preserve lots of artisanal (or fake artisanal) detailing. I'm thinking of explicitly industrial design (e.g. machined seamed lapels then turned inside-out for a clean look, etc.). For instance, last year I bought this from Albam despite the fashionable short length because it approximates the industrial simplicity I'm after:

post #2 of 7

Take a look at Armani Spring 2012. They did more-or-less "classical" shaped jackets with details that veer from the straight-up ideal --  button placement, lapel shape, etc. But all have sort of that clean-seamed, technical finish. And in some interesting materials, if you're into that kind of thing. (I happen to like it).

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks. Lots of photos here: http://www.spohszine.com/2012/03/giorgio-armani-menswear-spring-2012/

Many very short and skinny jackets, but some more harmonious ones. Interesting DBs. Will see what I can find.
post #4 of 7
I liked some of those stretchy, sweater-like jackets they made and had been looking for a good source for years. Had one made recently by Luxire and I like it enough to have ordered a couple more. Fit pics here and detailed ones here. They'd be able to make it to the proportions you want. You'd probably need to specify the "industrial" construction details and work with them on sourcing the kind of fabric you'd like.
post #5 of 7
I just bought a GA "sweater jacket" on a whim last month. my first Armani purchase in like 7 years. fits like a dream if you have a trim build but it definitely isn't classically proportioned. they're very short, lapels are very skinny. material is 98% cashmere and the rest is poly, I assume that's what gives it the stretch
post #6 of 7
Dog...where did your famous and way-cool avatar go?
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man Of Lint View Post

Dog...where did your famous and way-cool avatar go?

puzzled.gif
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