Lately I've been thinking about modern, explicitly industrial clothing, so Armani obviously springs to mind. My tailor does soft garments well, but won't do deconstructed, industrially-finished stuff ("if you want a shirt jacket it's not worth coming to me", "that sort of stretchy cloth is not suitable for traditional tailoring", etc.). Besides, the point of Armani-esque jackets is supposed to be precisely the overcoming of the need for bespoke patterns and hand work. And what I find most disagreeable about a lot RTW stuff is precisely the fake sartorial detailing. But the problem is this: Armani's silhouettes follow the fashion of the time. The jackets were big-shouldered and droopy when he made his name, and they're pretty skinny and short now. I don't like either extreme. Does anyone make a classically-proportioned deconstructed jacket? Did Armani ever do them? Apols for the probably naive questions, but this isn't something I've thought about much until now.
Clarification: I'm not talking about the many unlined coats one finds today (Boglioli etc.). Those are a lightened version of classical tailoring, and they preserve lots of artisanal (or fake artisanal) detailing. I'm thinking of explicitly industrial design (e.g. machined seamed lapels then turned inside-out for a clean look, etc.). For instance, last year I bought this from Albam despite the fashionable short length because it approximates the industrial simplicity I'm after:
Clarification: I'm not talking about the many unlined coats one finds today (Boglioli etc.). Those are a lightened version of classical tailoring, and they preserve lots of artisanal (or fake artisanal) detailing. I'm thinking of explicitly industrial design (e.g. machined seamed lapels then turned inside-out for a clean look, etc.). For instance, last year I bought this from Albam despite the fashionable short length because it approximates the industrial simplicity I'm after:
