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John Lobb Appreciation Thread - Page 7

post #91 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Any idea which Italian tannery?Ilcea?

 

AFAIK, mesuem calf is Ilcea.    But Hermes has been buying tanneries around the world, so...

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post #92 of 1513

Most balanced single monk design IMO.  JL 1998.

 

post #93 of 1513
post #94 of 1513
^surperb
post #95 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by dddrees View Post

Why exactly would you call the GY welt a poor construction method?

I still never found WHY GY welting was an inferior construction method. If it is so inferior, why does St. Crispins, Cothay, John Lobb bespoke, G&G and basically every other top manufacturer use it? I'm sorry, but that is an asinine comment, especially given that your JL City IIs use it.

post #96 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

I still never found WHY GY welting was an inferior construction method. If it is so inferior, why does St. Crispins, Cothay, John Lobb bespoke, G&G and basically every other top manufacturer use it? I'm sorry, but that is an asinine comment, especially given that your JL City IIs use it.

Sorry, 

 

who's saying Goodwelt poor construction? 

 

and did they expand on why?

post #97 of 1513
Anyone have any leads on snuff suede chapels? Full retail ok
post #98 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

I still never found WHY GY welting was an inferior construction method. If it is so inferior, why does St. Crispins, Cothay, John Lobb bespoke, G&G and basically every other top manufacturer use it? I'm sorry, but that is an asinine comment, especially given that your JL City IIs use it.

John Lobb bespoke (St.J and Paris) is handwelted and I though St. Crispins was as well..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post

Sorry, 

who's saying Goodwelt poor construction? 

and did they expand on why?

http://www.aubercy.com/en/passion-for-our-craft/hand-sewn-goodyear/

shout out to DWFII!!!
Edited by Kuro - 3/23/13 at 6:57pm
post #99 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


The new JL shoe trees don't look so shabby

but they're still not last specific like G&G and others
post #100 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro View Post

John Lobb bespoke (St.J and Paris) is handwelted and I though St. Crispins was as well..
http://www.aubercy.com/en/passion-for-our-craft/hand-sewn-goodyear/

shout out to DWFII!!!

Kuro,

It's a good article and touches on (lightly) some of the things I've been saying for several years here on SF.

That said, Goodyear welting is so called because the man who invented the machine to inseam shoes...first with a folded holdfast and then with linen or canvas "gemming"...was named Goodyear. Before he came along with his machine/invention all inseaming was done by hand and I can guarantee no one called it "Goodyear."

People who know the history of the Trade...and, more importantly, respect it...would not think to call hand welting Goodyear. And "hand-sewn Goodyear" is an oxymoron. Another bit of obfuscation.

As for those who really want to know why Goodyear welting is inferior, read post # 21 and post #39 here and maybe the discussion in-between--just a sample of the "why"...for those who are really and truly interested, that is.

And for extra credit, read the interview itself, skipping...if you need to...to the paragraph that begins "But it doesn't stop there...." About half way (or more) through.

--
Edited by DWFII - 3/24/13 at 6:05am
post #101 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

The new JL shoe trees don't look so shabby

but they're still not last specific like G&G and others

I beg to differ. The shoe trees are last specific.
post #102 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

I beg to differ. The shoe trees are last specific.

The new trees have width choices, but they are not last specific. one model accomodates all the JL lasts
post #103 of 1513

hand welting and goodyear welting are not mutually exclusive. The only difference is that one is sewn by hand and one is sewn by machine. If you look at any shoe, it is the same construction. It is a sole foundation, a foundation tacked on, followed by leather welting sewing on. The hot cork is then poured into the void. After this, the cork will be sewn down and a sole is put on. This sole is attached to the welting by stitches, which can be done by machine or hand. occasionally, higher end shoes will decoratively dig up the sides of the sole so that the welt sewing appears hidden. This does not change the fact that this is a goodyear welting method. If someone proves me wrong, I'll gladly buy them a bottle of safir polish or tin of wax.

post #104 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

hand welting and goodyear welting are not mutually exclusive. The only difference is that one is sewn by hand and one is sewn by machine. If you look at any shoe, it is the same construction. It is a sole foundation, a foundation tacked on, followed by leather welting sewing on. The hot cork is then poured into the void. After this, the cork will be sewn down and a sole is put on. This sole is attached to the welting by stitches, which can be done by machine or hand. occasionally, higher end shoes will decoratively dig up the sides of the sole so that the welt sewing appears hidden. This does not change the fact that this is a goodyear welting method. If someone proves me wrong, I'll gladly buy them a bottle of safir polish or tin of wax.

LOL

Why not to read the link DWFII posted before writing this?

post #105 of 1513
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

hand welting and goodyear welting are not mutually exclusive. The only difference is that one is sewn by hand and one is sewn by machine. If you look at any shoe, it is the same construction. It is a sole foundation, a foundation tacked on, followed by leather welting sewing on. The hot cork is then poured into the void. After this, the cork will be sewn down and a sole is put on. This sole is attached to the welting by stitches, which can be done by machine or hand. occasionally, higher end shoes will decoratively dig up the sides of the sole so that the welt sewing appears hidden. This does not change the fact that this is a goodyear welting method. If someone proves me wrong, I'll gladly buy them a bottle of safir polish or tin of wax.

You simply don't know what you're talking about.

--
Edited by DWFII - 3/24/13 at 7:20am
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