Originally Posted by JermynStreet
DFW I understand what you are saying and I don't think we are in disagreement. From all of the sources that I have looked at, modern welting-goodyear or handseaming-was not invented until after
Mr. Goodyear invented the goodyear welt. In other words, before goodyear, soles were simply sewn to the bottom of the upper. When the sole was gone, so was the shoe.
I don't know what your sources are but it's simply not true. Look this over good:
(click to enlarge if you cannot read the text)
1500 AD is the rough date for inseaming. At that time welt was sewn to the upper, and the insole simultaneously. It is still done that way today.
Charles Goodyear Jr. doesn't come along until 369 years later. And, IIRC, Goodyear welting, as we know it today, doesn't really get rolling until after WWI. There is nothing traditional about Goodyear welting techniques; Goodyear has its origins with hand welted inseams, not vice-versa. That's fact.
In terms of technique and quality, Goodyear does not sew the welt and the upper to the insole but rather to a strip of linen that is glued to the insole.
If shoes were compared to woodworking, the difference would very literally be the difference between a dovetailed join and a simple white glue join (perhaps with brads).
Traditional inseaming is superior to machined goodyear welts, but the now "traditional" inseaming method was not invented until after goodyear had the idea to connect the outer soul to the welt. Thus the traditional inseaming is still a goodyear style welt-just a superior form. I don't think we're disagreeing on the quality, I think we are disagreeing on the terminology.
Completely bogus...and, no disrespect intended...ignorant as well. More than that, it's really an outrageous statement to make. Goodyear is pretending
to be hand welted. As a technique, it...and those who adopt and sell their product without drawing a clear distinction....are trying to deliberately deceive the uneducated customer into believing that Goodyear is as good as a hand sewn inseam.
All of St. Crispins, Lobb and G&G have goodyear process welting that is done with the highest quality materials and by hand, but it is still goodyear.
Sorry bogus again. One of the makers you mentioned does, AFAIK, hand welt their inseams, but it is not now
and never was referred to as "Goodyear."
The other two may offer premium MTM lines where some, occasional, hand inseaming is done. But the rest of their shoes are goodyear welted, by machine to glued gemming.They are not now and never were done by hand.
--Edited by DWFII - 3/24/13 at 1:13pm