or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › How Jacquard and GRENADINE Tie Fabrics Were Originally Made -- A MUST SEE
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

How Jacquard and GRENADINE Tie Fabrics Were Originally Made -- A MUST SEE

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I was watching this excellent BBC documentary on entropy and information that just happens to include a section on the 18th century jacquard loom (one of the first "information technologies").

Very cool video. Jacquard looms were able to produce insanely detailed fabrics for their day, almost as precise as pixels.

The section on jacquard looms starts around the 9:30 mark in the video below







Punch cards:

800px-Loom.jpg





The same principles go into the production of jacquard fabrics that Turnbull & Asser uses today:

Quote:
Warp and Weft

All weaves are made up from Warp and Weft ‘yarns’. Warp ‘yarns’ run along the length of the material, whilst weft ‘yarns’ run across the width of the material. It is the different methods of interlacing the warp and weft ‘yarns’ that create a particular type of weave. Many of the most common weaves have acquired names that come down to us over the centuries.

Jacquard Weave
Jacquard weaving makes possible in almost any loom the programmed raising of each warp thread independently of the others. This brings much greater versatility to the weaving process, and offers the highest level of warp yarn control. This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of pattern weaving.
Jacquard weave was invented by a Frenchman named Joseph Marie Jacquard. Fabrics of jacquard weave are costly because it involves more time and skill in making the Jacquard cards to produce a new pattern. Moreover until recent advances in technology the weaving operation was also very slow.

JacquardLeft.gif
JacquardRight.gif

http://store.turnbullandasser.co.uk/Materials_and_styling/Jacquard_Weave.html


Pierce Brosnan's Turnbull & Asser tie. Don't know if this is technically the same kind of jacquard.

brioni-and-tomorrow-never-dies-gallery.png
cl047-turnbull-asser-tie-dad-blue-squares-2.jpg




This loomed portrait of Jacquard would later be referred to as "The Most Famous Image in the Early History of Computing." It took 27,000 punch cardsto make. Ridiculously complex teacha.gif

220px-Jacquard_Joseph_Marie_woven_silk.jpg

Punch cards would later provide input for the first programmable computer, ENIAC

_ENIAC.JPG


So there you have it, a link between classical menswear and computer history!
Edited by jrd617 - 2/20/13 at 10:08pm
post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 
Grenadines too, apparently. Punch cards, pretty crazy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grenadine_(cloth)

qRMCF.jpg
Edited by jrd617 - 2/20/13 at 10:00pm
post #3 of 10
Looks like an interesting program. Thanks.
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Drakes jacquard tie. The dot design is very simple considering what early Jacquard looms were capable of producing (the famous portrait above, etc.)

bd946f8a_425823.jpeg
a20673d0_425824.jpeg
Edited by jrd617 - 2/20/13 at 10:11pm
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
post #6 of 10

Thanks for posting this!

post #7 of 10
Very interesting program.

I have visited an old silk loom that is still in use in Lyon today - it was a lot of fun to see it.

Also the Lyon silk museum is worth visiting.

These days silk looms for complex patterns are still jacquard style but more modern. So almost every silk weaver in the world uses them but a more modern version.

Dobby looms are typically used for simple solids and stripes.
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Hober View Post


These days silk looms for complex patterns are still jacquard style but more modern. So almost every silk weaver in the world uses them but a more modern version.

Dobby looms are typically used for simple solids and stripes.

Interesting, so they must look more like this

Jacquard_Loom_-_geograph.org.uk_-_2326269.jpg

What about grenadine? Is it loomed on different machinery?
post #9 of 10
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:

Very cool
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › How Jacquard and GRENADINE Tie Fabrics Were Originally Made -- A MUST SEE