I'm hoping to find someone with a lot more knowledge than I on here, that would mean every single one of you I'm sure, who could give me a rough idea of all the things needed to manufacture a high quality blazer.
A friend and I are looking to make a very small batch of mens blazers. We know the outer shell materials we wish to use and have spoken to suppliers. The loom that we are ordering is 150cm wide. We'd been told to allow 2 metres of loom per blazer. is this still the case with the 150cm wide material?
Beyond this, we are likely to use bemberg lining. How much lining will we need per blazer?
The blazers will be fully canvassed. So how much canvassing should we allow per blazer? Horse hair? camel hair? buckram? I've also seen available for purchase 'chest canvas' which doesn't appear to be fusbile and is half the price of the hair canvas. Avoid?
A half canvassed piece would require how much less canvas per blazer? and how much fusible would be needed instead?
For a fairly lightweight tweed structured jacket, the shoulder pads should be 1, 2 or 4 ply? 4, 8 or 15mm thick? I'm completely in the dark where this is concerned.
I understand I may be taking somewhat of a liberty coming on here and asking so much in my first post, and I don't expect anyone to give definitive answers but a rough idea and little education regarding the shoulder pads would be every so highly appreciated.
One last thing, is there anything in particular I should know about collar and lapels? I've seen 'collafelts' around and we're looking to add maybe a coloured felt under the collar but this seemed to me to be something different? I'm assuming with the lapels, the structure will be given using the canvas?