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Unlined, completely unconstructed jackets

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 

Hey guys, 

 

I'm looking for a jacket in the style of the one below on the left: very light weight, almost like a shirt, with no lining or construction and high armholes. I've mostly seen them in checkered or other patterns. Would anyone know where to buy one? Thanks

post #2 of 23
Thread Starter 

Or like the two on the left:

 

http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/seize-sur-vingt-shoulder/

post #3 of 23
You can find these pretty much everywhere these days. Most every retail store stocks at least one, and most every tailored clothing brand makes a few variants. There are a few threads on deconstructed jackets if you use the search function that will provide a discussion of the relative merits of the various brands. Depends on your budget and how much time you have to look for deals. The standard SF answer is to troll Yoox or threedifferent for affordable Boglioli, L.BM. 1911, or the like, which has worked well for me. On the other end of the spectrum, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend much money, J.C. Penney even stocks a few unstructured blazers.

For what it's worth, I would rank the unstructured jackets I own as follows:

1. Boglioli
2. Crittenden
3. Kroon
4. Scott James
post #4 of 23
In addition to those mentioned by reidrothchild, you could have one custom made. I know that Proper Suit is now doing unstructured jackets and I wrote about them today at my blog and I took some photos of their fabric swatches.

In addition, Kent Wang is also offering unstructured jackets now, too, I believe. You can check his affiliate thread for more info.

FWIW, I have had jackets from LBM 1911, Boglioli and Caruso (for Burberry) in the past. I also know that Brooks Brothers has a few unstructured jackets, but they're cut quite short in the hem. The one navy cotton knit blazer I have is more like a cardigan in function than a blazer. If I'm not mistaken, J.Press even has a few options now, too.

(EDITED for grammar)
post #5 of 23

I had a gray Lardini wool suit that felt like a shirt. Completely shoulders, had some lining in arms though. 

post #6 of 23
The chap on the right's shoes fit him terribly!
post #7 of 23
This past summer, I tried on several of those jackets both here and in Italy. Most if not all had poor fit (loose necks, low armholes, etc. -- US brands) and/or trendy styling (short w/ high button point -- Italian ones).

So I convinced Luxire to make me one. (They only made shirts at that point.) It was very well made, and since it's totally unconstructed and preshrunk, it's wash/dry. I posted pics and a more detailed description in their affiliate thread. They're making me two more now, another unlined cotton one and one out of a vintage, highly textured flannel, silk lined.
post #8 of 23
^Link to pics please?
post #9 of 23
For some reason, I'd never even considered a custom-made unstructured jacket. Seeing emptm's photos from the luxire thread makes me think that might be the way to go for a summer suit.
post #10 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by reidrothchild View Post

For some reason, I'd never even considered a custom-made unstructured jacket. Seeing emptm's photos from the luxire thread makes me think that might be the way to go for a summer suit.

Unlined, unstructured using fresco type material sounds good for summer.
post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by reidrothchild View Post

You can find these pretty much everywhere these days. Most every retail store stocks at least one, and most every tailored clothing brand makes a few variants.

 

Yeah, they're available pretty much across the board, including mass-market/fast-fashion shops, with all the compromises you'd expect to meet those price points. I actually picked a grey tweedy one up from Gap last autumn (lined but otherwise virtually unstructured & zero shoudler padding), purely as an experiment/stop-gap measure while waiting for a grey tweed (normally-structured) bespoke jacket to be finished . Decided that the unstructured look definitely isn't my thing, so will be selling it off soon (probably getting next to nothing back, I suspect) but the point is that with a bit of looking around even a regular shopping centre/mall, you should find something and if you want a higher quality version, the higher-end designers already mentioned in this thread sell plenty of them.

post #12 of 23
Pics of emptym's unstructured jacket:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/304965/luxire-custom-clothing-official-affiliate-thread/900_100#post_6065156

Emptym, how did you work with them on the measurements? Did you send them a jacket to copy?
post #13 of 23

Boglioli.

 

Fourdifferent.com had 2nds, some of which were extrmeely minor/invisible flaws, for 59 euro.  Might have some left.

post #14 of 23

jcrew  has 5-6 on their website now.

post #15 of 23
You can also look at Canali's Kei jackets - they are quite wonderfully cut and completely unlined.

I got into the unstructured/patch pocket look a few years ago. I find that they are a great Biz Casual alternative and can go with anything from jeans on up for going out or to dinner parties - comfy like a cardigan but with a bit more panache. I probably have a 1/2 dozen of them and they get heavy use. Also awesome for travel and you can just ball them up in an overhead and then throw them on.

That said, all of these are not the same so you have to be careful. Traditional unstructured coast were often the pinnacle of tailoring as all the seams were exposed and the cut had to be spot on in the chest and shoulders of it looked lie you were wearing a rumpled bag. I've seen this last issue in a lot of RTW unstructured cuts.

I have tried on Lardini's, LBMs, and Bogliolis from Yoox sales only to send them right back - cool coats and some neat fabrics but the Thom B. length in those cuts was a deal killer.

One step up in terms of some structure but still incredibly light padding and essentially the same feel can be found in some Caruso's, Luciano Barberra's (usually only the Satoriales), and older Isaia models like the Scott or the Trent.
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