I made a post about Il Sarto with pics not so long ago.
I asked to reduce the padding to make it natural shoulder, which they could do, but their way of attaching shoulder is with a slight bump at the shoulder ( I do not know the term for that). I do not know if they can do make it more bump less.
oh, yes, thanks for pointing that out. do you know how much they are for a fully canvassed VBC, and for TM or other branded shirts?
I did not specifically ask VBC so I do not know. They have TM and other branded shirt fabrics. They usually answer Emails promptly so I appreciate if you can ask them and share the info here.