or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 237

post #3541 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Do you have very long legs?

I can see your jacket's button is at your natural waist, and your trousers wears rather low.

It's single button design, the button opening is bit higher, and trousers actually sits at natural waist
post #3542 of 3698
You need trousers at a proper level for one button jackets - and the buttoning point could be lower.
post #3543 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

You need trousers at a proper level for one button jackets - and the buttoning point could be lower.

Will tell Ricky, did find trousers sits bit lower than expected
post #3544 of 3698
I came across this site over the weekend with the hope of reading as much as I could before a trip to HK in January. Well, I just got word from my boss that the trip was moved up and thus I leave this Friday for 6 - 8 days.

I'm reading as quickly as possible but am wondering if you all could give me a bit of guidance in choosing a tailor(s) to get the following made: 1 suit (full canvas) with 1 extra pair of trousers, 2-4 pairs of trousers, and 3-5 shirts. My budget is in the 15,000 - 20,000 HKD range but I understand the fabrics I choose could push this up or keep me in range (preferred).

A coworker recommended Empire International and another recommended Sam's for a suit. Based on my a couple of hours of reading posts here, Lee Baron, Michael/Ng Sifu, Ascot Chang, and WW Chan seem to get a lot of mention. I'm not ready to go to the high-end shops just yet am leaning towards Lee Baron and Michael/Ng Sifu for a full canvas suit. For shirts, I'm thinking AC. Any suggestions for trousers / is my budget enough to allow for some standalone trousers?

I'm still reading through posts, but again, any guidance is appreciated.

Also, I don't have a typical build - I'm 6'6", 225lbs FWIW.
post #3545 of 3698
Ascot Chang shirts may bump out most of the tailored goods off your agenda. Not that they charge US$500 for everything, but when you get to decent-quality cotton the price climbs much faster than it would in England or Europe. I don't know if that is a quirk of their tax system, or just pricing strategy.

Down the road, the best value with AC is doing CMT with your own fabric. If it's not super-superfine stuff, the bill is about US$150/shirt. It gets closer to $200 if you send Super 170s or 200s. Plus fabric, of course. That's not exactly cheap when you use fabric worth making good shirts from, but it's a significant discount from what they'd charge for their own best (often excellent) stuff.

A lot of this depends on how much you need clothing delivered quickly. The best strategy may be to nail down a shirtmaker, and continue to buy suits and trousers off-the-rack at home unless you're impossible to fit, or you have off-center tastes in fabrics. Frankly, I find that a lot of cheaper HK suits look like cheap HK suits.
post #3546 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Ascot Chang shirts may bump out most of the tailored goods off your agenda. Not that they charge US$500 for everything, but when you get to decent-quality cotton the price climbs much faster than it would in England or Europe. I don't know if that is a quirk of their tax system, or just pricing strategy.

Hong Kong don't have any import or export tax on clothing.
post #3547 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolo85 View Post

I came across this site over the weekend with the hope of reading as much as I could before a trip to HK in January. Well, I just got word from my boss that the trip was moved up and thus I leave this Friday for 6 - 8 days.

I'm reading as quickly as possible but am wondering if you all could give me a bit of guidance in choosing a tailor(s) to get the following made: 1 suit (full canvas) with 1 extra pair of trousers, 2-4 pairs of trousers, and 3-5 shirts. My budget is in the 15,000 - 20,000 HKD range but I understand the fabrics I choose could push this up or keep me in range (preferred).

A coworker recommended Empire International and another recommended Sam's for a suit. Based on my a couple of hours of reading posts here, Lee Baron, Michael/Ng Sifu, Ascot Chang, and WW Chan seem to get a lot of mention. I'm not ready to go to the high-end shops just yet am leaning towards Lee Baron and Michael/Ng Sifu for a full canvas suit. For shirts, I'm thinking AC. Any suggestions for trousers / is my budget enough to allow for some standalone trousers?

I'm still reading through posts, but again, any guidance is appreciated.

Also, I don't have a typical build - I'm 6'6", 225lbs FWIW.

Ascot Chang shirt is around $1500 with house fabric .

For your budget, maybe

Ascot Chang for shirts.

Lee Baron for full canvas suit.

Michael / Ng sifu for odd trousers。

You can try all tailors you are considering and still within your budget .
post #3548 of 3698
I think with that budget it is better to skip the suit for next time, and to use those money to buy good shirts and odd trousers instead.

Frankly your budget is too cheap to get any decent looking stuff, if you are getting that much.
post #3549 of 3698

I am still using Moda Republic for lower price range beater items. Lots of posters here have high standards and wouldn't use them, but if you're keen on getting something for that price range they are good value. I am still wearing their jackets even if they don't fit as well as my higher end ones, and the trousers/shirts are more than serviceable.

 

This is not to say add911 and co's advice is wrong, if you end up having a high standard you might feel like it's a waste of money because you'd never be caught dead in lower-mid range tailors in HK (it sounds like that's how they feel anyway) but high standards are a luxury. Most people won't mind or in fact would think the quality of the slightly lower range items are quite impressive. The question is if you'd feel that way, or if people you associate with would. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents because there are lots of people on these forums which want the best, which is admirable, but sometimes people just need enough clothes to wear and be presentable.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

These are my first two jackets from Moda. Armholes a bit large, needed some adjustments on shoulders, but now fit absolutely fine, especially in bulkier fabric (going to get a piece made in fresco and will see how it is). I think it's perfectly respectable if you just need a suit made.

 

I think they fit better than my Simpson Sin suits (I got 3 jackets/suits from them), and they are slightly cheaper than SS.

 

Full disclosure I'm in talks of becoming a London agent with Moda and planning to partnering with them for an MTM program. I have no current financial link with them though, aside from being a repeat customer. I also mostly wear Dream Bespoke, WW Chan suits/jackets, and Luxire myself.

 

80% of my shirts are from Moda, though I have a few from Luxire and Chan. They're fine, they're shirts. Sometimes you just need something to wear that will be barely seen anyway, and they're at a price range that beats or are similar to RTW. I find Chris easier to work with than the staff at Jantzen by far. (Obv Ricky and Chan staff are great too). There are some other similar price range shirt makers that are well received but I have no experience with them. Dream is not much more expensive either but I haven't made shirts with them because I'd been happy with Moda. Trousers are relatively cheap with Moda, but I mostly use Luxire for that in the past since I'm overseas, but plan on getting a few more made with Moda.

 

I want to say that I think Ascot Chang or WW Chan price range for shirts is really bad budgeting advice. They might be really good, but priorities wise, getting a well fitting jacket, a well fitting pair of trousers, and also nice shoes, is a far better investment than shirts, and the increase in quality moving from 300-400 HKD shirt to Ascot Chang level, especially when you want 5-10 shirts (which may need replacing after a year or two depending on how many you have and how often you wear them), is just not a sensible use of money if you're short on it. Heck if you want to, it's better to get 1 shirt made from a high end tailor and then have it copied by a cheaper tailor or Luxire or other MTM program. As long as the collar are looks reasonably good, and you keep your jacket on, the rest of the shirt fit doesn't matter except for some comfort levels anyway, and let's be honest, pretty much any tailor can adjust the sleeves length and width so it looks okay under a jacket.

 

Like, if you guys want to be really elitist about the jackets and trousers (mine aren't the best fitting I admit, even if I do feel happy in them), then I think it's reasonable to save up for a good tailor for those, but for 10 shirts made in a cheaper tailor instead of ascot chang, that's enough for a suit at WW Chan almost.


Edited by Isolation - 10/19/16 at 1:47am
post #3550 of 3698
@Isolation very well said! There are some good analysis there.

Based on OP's request, and in my own experiences, male workers nowadays rarely obliged to wear a suit and tie everyday. Most people either wear streetwear or trouser+shirt to work.

Therefore, I just find for the average to get nicely made shirt (with suitable fabric for the weather, not necessarily the fine but non-breathable stuff) and good trouser (with fabrics which irons wear, will not get worsted on the crouch quickly) is FAR more important to get an exquisite suit.

I don't find shirts and trouser have such lesser life then suits. In fact, my longest kept items are some of my old shirts for 5-6 years.

Your help will be appreciated by OP. BTW good luck with your venture with Moda.
post #3551 of 3698
Thanks! I'll be sure to post examples of things made by them for the thread.
post #3552 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I am still using Moda Republic for lower price range beater items. Lots of posters here have high standards and wouldn't use them, but if you're keen on getting something for that price range they are good value. I am still wearing their jackets even if they don't fit as well as my higher end ones, and the trousers/shirts are more than serviceable.

This is not to say add911 and co's advice is wrong, if you end up having a high standard you might feel like it's a waste of money because you'd never be caught dead in lower-mid range tailors in HK (it sounds like that's how they feel anyway) but high standards are a luxury. Most people won't mind or in fact would think the quality of the slightly lower range items are quite impressive. The question is if you'd feel that way, or if people you associate with would. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents because there are lots of people on these forums which want the best, which is admirable, but sometimes people just need enough clothes to wear and be presentable.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







These are my first two jackets from Moda. Armholes a bit large, needed some adjustments on shoulders, but now fit absolutely fine, especially in bulkier fabric (going to get a piece made in fresco and will see how it is). I think it's perfectly respectable if you just need a suit made.

I think they fit better than my Simpson Sin suits (I got 3 jackets/suits from them), and they are slightly cheaper than SS.

Full disclosure I'm in talks of becoming a London agent with Moda and planning to partnering with them for an MTM program. I have no current financial link with them though, aside from being a repeat customer. I also mostly wear Dream Bespoke, WW Chan suits/jackets, and Luxire myself.

80% of my shirts are from Moda, though I have a few from Luxire and Chan. They're fine, they're shirts. Sometimes you just need something to wear that will be barely seen anyway, and they're at a price range that beats or are similar to RTW. I find Chris easier to work with than the staff at Jantzen by far. (Obv Ricky and Chan staff are great too). There are some other similar price range shirt makers that are well received but I have no experience with them. Dream is not much more expensive either but I haven't made shirts with them because I'd been happy with Moda. Trousers are relatively cheap with Moda, but I mostly use Luxire for that in the past since I'm overseas, but plan on getting a few more made with Moda.

I want to say that I think Ascot Chang or WW Chan price range for shirts is really bad budgeting advice. They might be really good, but priorities wise, getting a well fitting jacket, a well fitting pair of trousers, and also nice shoes, is a far better investment than shirts, and the increase in quality moving from 300-400 HKD shirt to Ascot Chang level, especially when you want 5-10 shirts (which may need replacing after a year or two depending on how many you have and how often you wear them), is just not a sensible use of money if you're short on it. Heck if you want to, it's better to get 1 shirt made from a high end tailor and then have it copied by a cheaper tailor or Luxire or other MTM program. As long as the collar are looks reasonably good, and you keep your jacket on, the rest of the shirt fit doesn't matter except for some comfort levels anyway, and let's be honest, pretty much any tailor can adjust the sleeves length and width so it looks okay under a jacket.

Like, if you guys want to be really elitist about the jackets and trousers (mine aren't the best fitting I admit, even if I do feel happy in them), then I think it's reasonable to save up for a good tailor for those, but for 10 shirts made in a cheaper tailor instead of ascot chang, that's enough for a suit at WW Chan almost.
post #3553 of 3698
Everyone has his/her own logic of how to spend .
post #3554 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I am still using Moda Republic for lower price range beater items. Lots of posters here have high standards and wouldn't use them, but if you're keen on getting something for that price range they are good value. I am still wearing their jackets even if they don't fit as well as my higher end ones, and the trousers/shirts are more than serviceable.

This is not to say add911 and co's advice is wrong, if you end up having a high standard you might feel like it's a waste of money because you'd never be caught dead in lower-mid range tailors in HK (it sounds like that's how they feel anyway) but high standards are a luxury. Most people won't mind or in fact would think the quality of the slightly lower range items are quite impressive. The question is if you'd feel that way, or if people you associate with would. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents because there are lots of people on these forums which want the best, which is admirable, but sometimes people just need enough clothes to wear and be presentable.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







These are my first two jackets from Moda. Armholes a bit large, needed some adjustments on shoulders, but now fit absolutely fine, especially in bulkier fabric (going to get a piece made in fresco and will see how it is). I think it's perfectly respectable if you just need a suit made.

I think they fit better than my Simpson Sin suits (I got 3 jackets/suits from them), and they are slightly cheaper than SS.

Full disclosure I'm in talks of becoming a London agent with Moda and planning to partnering with them for an MTM program. I have no current financial link with them though, aside from being a repeat customer. I also mostly wear Dream Bespoke, WW Chan suits/jackets, and Luxire myself.

80% of my shirts are from Moda, though I have a few from Luxire and Chan. They're fine, they're shirts. Sometimes you just need something to wear that will be barely seen anyway, and they're at a price range that beats or are similar to RTW. I find Chris easier to work with than the staff at Jantzen by far. (Obv Ricky and Chan staff are great too). There are some other similar price range shirt makers that are well received but I have no experience with them. Dream is not much more expensive either but I haven't made shirts with them because I'd been happy with Moda. Trousers are relatively cheap with Moda, but I mostly use Luxire for that in the past since I'm overseas, but plan on getting a few more made with Moda.

I want to say that I think Ascot Chang or WW Chan price range for shirts is really bad budgeting advice. They might be really good, but priorities wise, getting a well fitting jacket, a well fitting pair of trousers, and also nice shoes, is a far better investment than shirts, and the increase in quality moving from 300-400 HKD shirt to Ascot Chang level, especially when you want 5-10 shirts (which may need replacing after a year or two depending on how many you have and how often you wear them), is just not a sensible use of money if you're short on it. Heck if you want to, it's better to get 1 shirt made from a high end tailor and then have it copied by a cheaper tailor or Luxire or other MTM program. As long as the collar are looks reasonably good, and you keep your jacket on, the rest of the shirt fit doesn't matter except for some comfort levels anyway, and let's be honest, pretty much any tailor can adjust the sleeves length and width so it looks okay under a jacket.

Like, if you guys want to be really elitist about the jackets and trousers (mine aren't the best fitting I admit, even if I do feel happy in them), then I think it's reasonable to save up for a good tailor for those, but for 10 shirts made in a cheaper tailor instead of ascot chang, that's enough for a suit at WW Chan almost.

That's rarely possible.
post #3555 of 3698
Quote:
 That's rarely possible.

 

I was given the option to do that with Chan, though I did order more.

 

Quote:
 Everyone has his/her own logic of how to spend .

 

That's what I am saying though, isn't it?

 

I'm saying that it's valid as well, for instance, to buy cheaper shirts, and use cheaper tailors, and have a more varied, seasonal wardrobe. That is clearly a less popular opinion in this thread, where it feels like everyone advises on spending the most possible on suits, and if you can't afford 8k+ on a suit, then you might as well not get one, which I think, is clearly not true. At some of the cheaper tailors you can get something better for the price than RTW options, which is what they'd have to do if they didn't get something made at one of the more expensive tailors, especially if they have an odd fit.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread