Originally Posted by GBR
I don't want anybody's MTM and I am not attracted to names in the slightest.
I too want to trust the cutter to produce a suit which meets the standard I require, a very 'soft' drape and that does require the cutter to have some interest in his client and to use his skill. I abandoned one Savile Row cutter (trained in one of the houses which likes to think itself a cut above the rest) after two commissions as I concluded that he was simply running a production line with minimal interest in his client and was guilty of allowing some very poor finishing out of his work room.
Your opinion is both valid and valuable and confirms the relationship which is essential between both parties and something with which I entirely agree. Chan has become very large and even in 1996 I was not overly impressed but this is the first time someone has honestly summed up what is missing rather looking at them in awe. I will think twice about resuming any relationship with them.
I do think WW Chan makes a very neat suit, but it has no personality. You can feel the cut and the shoulder is relatively "industrial". The Very good part is Chan manage to cut a very corrected fit suit with some on-trend features. If you are looking for uniformity, I can't think of another place in Hong Kong to go.
One thing I noticed about Chan is that their lapel, be it in any design, has virtually no belly. I also noted that Chan's coat interior is very clean and lightweight that they may not have inseams therein.
I will say for those who try Chan, make sure you 100% TELL THE FITTER WHAT YOU WANT AT BASTE FITTING. They always stressed that once the coat passed the 2nd stage alteration will be difficult.
I am rather surprised with your Chan experience in 1996.... I would have suspected back then they have a full team of proper cutters and their garment would be much more "tasteful" back then.
I have strong feelings that for celebrities, Chan outsource cutters and only keep the coat making process in house.
Put it this way, back then when I wanted to get a Tom Ford suit, I should have saved up the money and go to them instead. Now I am more interested in the cutter's twist on garments.
cutter's personality is why in contrast with many SR firms, many "Italian-esquire" oversea tailors became so popular nowadays because their advertisement at least manifest a strong personality. Many SR firms also cuts a very "uniform" bespoke garments. Obviously I knew some good cats around Savile Row but some firms also shares the "total corrected look".
For new comers, Although it may sound harsh but please do not consider tailor solely on the amount you can bear, this is really a bad criteria because you often overlook many things, including the "house-cut" and tailor's characteristic which are actually the most important out of all.