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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 187

post #2791 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

@add911_11: not a fan of the look, but it's well executed and I commend you for your sartorial adventures bigstar[1].gif

I understand now everything I like is within the norm of styleforum. However, I suspect there are fans which are more into the structured end of tailoring.

Thank you for your kind words.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifilover View Post

Will you try other top Hong Kong Tailors such as H Baramon, Gordon Yao and AMHC in near future ?

I have no intention to try with any of the tailors as mentioned above. I knew one of the contractor of AMHC in any event.

In fact, I believe reviews of H Baramon, Gordan Yao and AMHC are done to death, perhaps they are not located in SF.

Again, I stress the point that if one try to use these 3rd party review as a bible to Hong Kong tailors then they are making a huge mistake. Best is for you to try it so you can be your own judge.
post #2792 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I understand now everything I like is within the norm of styleforum. However, I suspect there are fans which are more into the structured end of tailoring.

Thank you for your kind words.
I have no intention to try with any of the tailors as mentioned above. I knew one of the contractor of AMHC in any event.

In fact, I believe reviews of H Baramon, Gordan Yao and AMHC are done to death, perhaps they are not located in SF.

Again, I stress the point that if one try to use these 3rd party review as a bible to Hong Kong tailors then they are making a huge mistake. Best is for you to try it so you can be your own judge.

Dear add911 ,

I wish i can afford.
post #2793 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifilover View Post

Dear add911 ,

I wish i can afford.

I see the point of informative reviews (such as those made by JefferyD), however for a consumer point of view the best is to visit the shop and see what they make.

I am aware that there is a delicate Gordon Yao thread in SF? AMHC can be search online. I am sure some members here who have used H Baramon will be able to say something.

For learning purposes, I cannot think of a better place then "the Cutter & Tailors Forum" and JefferyD's blog.
post #2794 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I see the point of informative reviews (such as those made by JefferyD), however for a consumer point of view the best is to visit the shop and see what they make.

I am aware that there is a delicate Gordon Yao thread in SF? AMHC can be search online. I am sure some members here who have used H Baramon will be able to say something.

For learning purposes, I cannot think of a better place then "the Cutter & Tailors Forum" and JefferyD's blog.

Dear Add_911 ,

Meanwhile, my financial statement does not permit me to use any of top expensive tailors in Hong Kong.
post #2795 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifilover View Post

Dear Add_911 ,

Meanwhile, my financial statement does not permit me to use any of top expensive tailors in Hong Kong.

I understand not everyone can afford, let alone, a bespoke tailor.

However, I am suggesting if you want to see what other HK tailors can offer, look through my suggested website and search styleforum will give you a better idea.

There is nothing to blame for limited means.

If you truly want to learn about the craft, the aforesaid websites and blogs are well worth a visit, to prepare your next purchase when you can pay for better tailoring work.

I should inform you that many so called "top expensive tailors" will still dispatch poorly made items as long as the customer is clueless.
post #2796 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Here is something new from Mr. Hui

LL Moss Green Shetland Tweed Sportscoat.

Fully lined, half belt, action back, four buttoned pockets

Now ready for final alteration (re-attach sleeve, buttonholes, waist tapper)




p.s. I am now also making a 15oz flannel sb 3pc (chocolate chalkstripe by Harrison Burley) and 7oz db 2pcs (navy herringbone by Zegna 15milmil15), I shall make a full review in due course.

Another fine garment, you certainly have an eye for getting the best out of your selected tailors/cutters.
post #2797 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I understand not everyone can afford, let alone, a bespoke tailor.

However, I am suggesting if you want to see what other HK tailors can offer, look through my suggested website and search styleforum will give you a better idea.

There is nothing to blame for limited means.

If you truly want to learn about the craft, the aforesaid websites and blogs are well worth a visit, to prepare your next purchase when you can pay for better tailoring work.

I should inform you that many so called "top expensive tailors" will still dispatch poorly made items as long as the customer is clueless.

Grand Tailor seems to be worth to check out.
post #2798 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I understand not everyone can afford, let alone, a bespoke tailor.

However, I am suggesting if you want to see what other HK tailors can offer, look through my suggested website and search styleforum will give you a better idea.

There is nothing to blame for limited means.

If you truly want to learn about the craft, the aforesaid websites and blogs are well worth a visit, to prepare your next purchase when you can pay for better tailoring work.

I should inform you that many so called "top expensive tailors" will still dispatch poorly made items as long as the customer is clueless.

Some of the worst are those on Saville Row - always worth examining the finish of the inside of the coat to judge the finishing.
post #2799 of 3700
Baste Fittting - Grand Tailor ( Mr Hui)

The fitting was for a 14-15oz brown/grey Chalkstripe flannel by Harrison Burley. The design was a 3pc, with a three button fishmouth coat.

The Baste Fitting was also very informative, everything was attached for a useful session. Both Sleeves and all pleats are there for discussion.

From the Baste Fitting, It can be confirmed that the coat and the waistcoat will be fully canvassed. Since the fabric is firm enough on its own, Hui consider that interlining fusing is not needed.

Please noted that I did not have my dress shoes with me on that day.










post #2800 of 3700
Another interesting issue is how neat Hui does their collar pad stitching, below is from my green 4- pocket coat.

post #2801 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Another interesting issue is how neat Hui does their collar pad stitching, below is from my green 4- pocket coat.


Very good.
post #2802 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Baste Fittting - Grand Tailor ( Mr Hui)

The fitting was for a 14-15oz brown/grey Chalkstripe flannel by Harrison Burley. The design was a 3pc, with a three button fishmouth coat.

The Baste Fitting was also very informative, everything was attached for a useful session. Both Sleeves and all pleats are there for discussion.

From the Baste Fitting, It can be confirmed that the coat and the waistcoat will be fully canvassed. Since the fabric is firm enough on its own, Hui consider that interlining fusing is not needed.

Please noted that I did not have my dress shoes with me on that day.

[
http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1898852/[/IMG][/URL]

It will be interesting to compare this with your Chan suit. 14/15oz is a very good weight and so with your skills it should be good.
post #2803 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

It will be interesting to compare this with your Chan suit. 14/15oz is a very good weight and so with your skills it should be good.

Actually I had collected the Chan suit and it is now used as my office beater for fridays where I can get change to shorts and T-shirt after work.

In general, Chan suit seems to be very neatly made, the handwork seems to be refined. However, the cut of the jacket is very medicore, the pattern are poorly adjusted, resulting an overall soft-classic round look but with over short coat lengths.

Another matter is I find the coat to be too light, so light that the product when touched feels like a high end RTW making. You cannot feel the juicy parts where bespoke tailors will put inside the coat (e.g. touching a Savile Row coat nowdays you will realize how much "SXXX" a tailor puts inside for the drape", this is no existence in Chan's coat.

Although it may be fault on my part, the pattern I choose "3-button" did not warrent the cutter to cut with some consideration into it. There is no belly on the lapel and the lapel roll was made a touch too high. Thereby making a flat and uninterested looking shape, even if the lapel roll itself is here.

If they want me to return again, at least they have to get my lengths right, secondly is they have to improve their cut rather than using a academic proportion without any adjustment.

Note: given how thin the coat seams are, I have suspicion that the coat is cut by lazer and not by hand.
Edited by add911_11 - 10/17/15 at 8:56pm
post #2804 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Actually I had collected the Chan suit and it is now used as my office beater for fridays where I can get change to shorts and T-shirt after work.

In general, Chan suit seems to be very neatly made, the handwork seems to be refined. However, the cut of the jacket is very medicore, the pattern are poorly adjusted, resulting an overall soft-classic round look but with over short coat lengths.

Another matter is I find the coat to be too light, so light that the product when touched feels like a high end RTW making. You cannot feel the juicy parts where bespoke tailors will put inside the coat (e.g. touching a Savile Row coat nowdays you will realize how much "SXXX" a tailor puts inside for the drape", this is no existence in Chan's coat.

Although it may be fault on my part, the pattern I choose "3-button" did not warrent the cutter to cut some consideration into it. There is no belly on the lapel and the lapel roll was made a touch too high. Thereby making a flat and uninterested looking shape, even if the lapel roll itself is here.

If they want me to return again, at least they have to get my lengths

right, secondly is they have to improve their cut rather than using a academic proportion without any adjustment.

Note: given how thin the coat seams are, I have suspicion that the coat is cut by lazer and not by hand.

Cut by lazer ??
post #2805 of 3700
@hifilover

Lazer cutting is pretty common in garment manufacture. The good bit is consistency and thinner jointing parts (nil seam ends on the side).

Bad bit is lack of human touch (unless they have tweat a good bit on numbers input into the machine for pattern) and there is a thin smell of burnt if you are close enough.
Edited by add911_11 - 10/19/15 at 2:29am
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