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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 182

post #2716 of 3700

post #2717 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post


$HK15,000 possibly more for a special cloth

Wao ~ What about the CMT price ?

post #2718 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifilover View Post


Price should pay ???

 

Let's find out how much people are willing to pay first. How about you  ?

post #2719 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post

Let's find out how much people are willing to pay first. How about you  ?

CMT jacket $4k.
post #2720 of 3700
Looks like awful work. I would refuse to pay.
post #2721 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Looks like awful work. I would refuse to pay.

Why you think it is awful ? Although it is far far away from good tailoring, you can see tailoring work like this in Peninsula Hotel and Intercontinental Hotel.
post #2722 of 3700
WW. Chan Forward Fitting



The second fitting was pretty close to my expectation.

Besides the trouser was pretty much finished, the waistcoat and the jacket were still half way. I suspected such arrangement would be ideal for any last minute major amendments before delivery.

Fitting wise, the trouser now fits better and more into my taste. The waistcoat needed to trim up on the back and loosen up the waist. the sleeve pitch of the coat need some small amendment and cuff have to be lengthen, middle seam was also a bit off centered.

Again Patrick came out this time to my surprise because I had changed my fitting time on spot and I was not expecting him anyhow.

One thing I am pleased with are the trimmings, much better quality then the other common tailors (i.e. I sometimes supply own trimmings to Grand Tailor if needed). Canvass does feel very good quality and appear to be partly hand stitched and attached (I have fully hand attached canvass coat in Hong Kong before). Cut is certainly more Lai's vibe but more refined.

Overall, I believe that they have put a lot of effort and the order does appear to have a very English vibe. It is certainly comparable to some of my English stuff made in UK.





post #2723 of 3700
Many thanks for posting, it is going to be a good addition to your wardrobe your excellent skill and discernment. The final photograph captures your sills superbly even in its half finished state. That you supply your own trimmings to some marks this out as well. All this is one of the reasons why I find a view of the whole of the inside of the jacket shows the attention to detail by the tailor/cutter - or its absence.

Are you having the trousers without braces or is there absence merely because it is a fitting.
post #2724 of 3700

I don't see much point of asking people on this forum how much they would pay for such craftsmanship. I wouldn't shell out any money for it since I would have to use a cheap fabric to go with it.

 

Most of the work done by HK tailors are quite poor and rely on the ignorance of the customers. Most people don't know the quality they are getting and rely on the general look and feel of the suit. In the tailor's defense, it is a hard business since profits are so low. HK tailors need to cut a lot of corners to be able to make a decent margin.

post #2725 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by seferphier View Post

I don't see much point of asking people on this forum how much they would pay for such craftsmanship. I wouldn't shell out any money for it since I would have to use a cheap fabric to go with it.

Most of the work done by HK tailors are quite poor and rely on the ignorance of the customers. Most people don't know the quality they are getting and rely on the general look and feel of the suit. In the tailor's defense, it is a hard business since profits are so low. HK tailors need to cut a lot of corners to be able to make a decent margin.

Like what you said, tailors in HK did poor work. Many of them make money on ignorance of customers. Do you think it is good for the industry and customers ? By asking the question, I hope some meaningful discussion can be done.

Just today, one user here posts pics of WWChan second fitting. What makes WWChan stand out, from those pics, is not the fit or canvassing, but the tailoring work they used for the waistcoat. Attaching this kind of tailor taping is very time consuming and truly traditional work. Also, the white tape on the dart is closed by manual ZigZag (by moving needle direction back and forth on a normal lockstitching machine). So, instead of using general feel and fit to comment on the coat. Tailoring work is much more useful for it. More important, it is what tailors spend their time on and try to improve, to make a better coat.

Knowing more tailoring knowledge helps customers spend money on what it deserves. And, it starts from identifying what is bad.
post #2726 of 3700
Very true.
The waist coat looks spectacular
However it is too much (price) for me to get one at Chan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post

Like what you said, tailors in HK did poor work. Many of them make money on ignorance of customers. Do you think it is good for the industry and customers ? By asking the question, I hope some meaningful discussion can be done.

Just today, one user here posts pics of WWChan second fitting. What makes WWChan stand out, from those pics, is not the fit or canvassing, but the tailoring work they used for the waistcoat. Attaching this kind of tailor taping is very time consuming and truly traditional work. Also, the white tape on the dart is closed by manual ZigZag (by moving needle direction back and forth on a normal lockstitching machine). So, instead of using general feel and fit to comment on the coat. Tailoring work is much more useful for it. More important, it is what tailors spend their time on and try to improve, to make a better coat.

Knowing more tailoring knowledge helps customers spend money on what it deserves. And, it starts from identifying what is bad.
post #2727 of 3700

WW Chan's pants are really well done. Impressive work as always.

 

Consumers are forcing the tailoring industry into that direction. Most consumers aren't willing to pay. Why pay 5-20k for a suit when you can go to H&M to pick up something for 600 dollars that is similar? Tailoring is a really tough business.

 

Threats to tailoring business:

  • Lots of substitutes (eg: fast retailing: H&M, Zara)
  • People gravitate to branded goods
  • High fixed cost (all retail businesses are held hostage by the rent in HK)
  • Extremely labour intensive (Camps De Luca said it takes them 70 man hours for a suit)
  • Lack of supply of good labour (steep learning curve- it takes decades of training to do that kind of high end work). Who wants to work so hard in an industry that pays so little?

 

Luckily for the tailoring industry there had been innovations such as fused canvas. It saves time and is easy to learn which reduces the cost to build a suit. You can further increase your profits by outsourcing it to China. You can train someone from scratch pretty easily. Most of the tailoring shops in HK will get wiped out without fused canvas. It is good for consumers that we still have a choice. I paid 3k for a suit in Central. It's a great starter suit. I'm a small guy and I can't buy anything off retail.

 

I believe that the tailoring industry will die off in the next decades or two. You will always have "tailors" doing fused canvases but the art of tailoring will be lost soon.

post #2728 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by seferphier View Post

WW Chan's pants are really well done. Impressive work as always.

Consumers are forcing the tailoring industry into that direction. Most consumers aren't willing to pay. Why pay 5-20k for a suit when you can go to H&M to pick up something for 600 dollars that is similar? Tailoring is a really tough business.

Threats to tailoring business:
  • Lots of substitutes (eg: fast retailing: H&M, Zara)
  • People gravitate to branded goods
  • High fixed cost (all retail businesses are held hostage by the rent in HK)
  • Extremely labour intensive (Camps De Luca said it takes them 70 man hours for a suit)
  • Lack of supply of good labour (steep learning curve- it takes decades of training to do that kind of high end work). Who wants to work so hard in an industry that pays so little?

Luckily for the tailoring industry there had been innovations such as fused canvas. It saves time and is easy to learn which reduces the cost to build a suit. You can further increase your profits by outsourcing it to China. You can train someone from scratch pretty easily. Most of the tailoring shops in HK will get wiped out without fused canvas. It is good for consumers that we still have a choice. I paid 3k for a suit in Central. It's a great starter suit. I'm a small guy and I can't buy anything off retail.

I believe that the tailoring industry will die off in the next decades or two. You will always have "tailors" doing fused canvases but the art of tailoring will be lost soon.

Similar ?! Gosh, it is really a tough business.
post #2729 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

WW. Chan Forward Fitting



The second fitting was pretty close to my expectation.

Besides the trouser was pretty much finished, the waistcoat and the jacket were still half way. I suspected such arrangement would be ideal for any last minute major amendments before delivery.

Fitting wise, the trouser now fits better and more into my taste. The waistcoat needed to trim up on the back and loosen up the waist. the sleeve pitch of the coat need some small amendment and cuff have to be lengthen, middle seam was also a bit off centered.

Again Patrick came out this time to my surprise because I had changed my fitting time on spot and I was not expecting him anyhow.

One thing I am pleased with are the trimmings, much better quality then the other common tailors (i.e. I sometimes supply own trimmings to Grand Tailor if needed). Canvass does feel very good quality and appear to be partly hand stitched and attached (I have fully hand attached canvass coat in Hong Kong before). Cut is certainly more Lai's vibe but more refined.

Overall, I believe that they have put a lot of effort and the order does appear to have a very English vibe. It is certainly comparable to some of my English stuff made in UK.






Do you think the jacket is a little short for classic look ?
post #2730 of 3700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifilover View Post

Do you think the jacket is a little short for classic look ?

I think the jacket length is alright... they have made it longer already.
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