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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 180

post #2686 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by xizenta View Post


Can someone explain what this is all about. Jacket looks amazing. How was it only 300-350 euro CMT? Can I send something by mail for replication?
How is their construction quality? You said this was fully canvassed, what about other details. Also what do you mean when you say "lapel buttonhole made in Paris"?

 

As always with replicating tailors, it's all about explaining them in great details what you want exactly and being behind them when they deliver to ensure they followed each and every instruction. Time consuming to "train" them but once it's done, you get that. The construction quality is totally decent for that price point. I've got nothing bad to say about it. 


Most buttonholes were machine made and not really nice to be honest. Typical industrial work. For the lapel buttonhole, I gave it to a seamstress in Paris for her to make it by hand properly.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Yeah I'm interested what the fabric is as well.

 

fwiw he said 300-350 CMT, so that's price not including fabric, so the total cost is more I imagine.

 

 

Honestly, the fabric was sourced on Ebay. I buy a lot there and IIRC it was approx. 140 EUR shipping included for that fabric. 

Then again, you'd have to add 25€ for the handmade buttonhole made in Paris.

 

So in total, we're around 500€ for that jacket. It's a wool linen silk blend. 

post #2687 of 3698
@SeamasterLux was the fabric branded? i see lots of vendors selling cut lengths, both branded and unbranded, and am wary of fakes or bad quality
post #2688 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

As always with replicating tailors, it's all about explaining them in great details what you want exactly and being behind them when they deliver to ensure they followed each and every instruction. Time consuming to "train" them but once it's done, you get that. The construction quality is totally decent for that price point. I've got nothing bad to say about it. 


Most buttonholes were machine made and not really nice to be honest. Typical industrial work. For the lapel buttonhole, I gave it to a seamstress in Paris for her to make it by hand properly.




Honestly, the fabric was sourced on Ebay. I buy a lot there and IIRC it was approx. 140 EUR shipping included for that fabric. 
Then again, you'd have to add 25€ for the handmade buttonhole made in Paris.

So in total, we're around 500€ for that jacket. It's a wool linen silk blend. 

I went to that tailor shop on sun, so sad that it was close. Will definitely visit again this week.
post #2689 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post


Yes. They moved to San Francisco, but the workshop reminded in HK. What is the "look" ?

 

Um....in that threat the fit pic looks quiet bad...

maybe the customer request, but dont see any 'modern cut"...

 

*but agree with WWChan as being able to do the more modern cut (or any cuts, just see some of the stuff they made over the weekend) 

post #2690 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


I have not tried Wong sifu yet. I am pending for the trier's outcome.

Plus I have a 3pc with WW Chan in making so at the moment I have enough.

 

The WWChan report looks great ! When you were there, do you feel there are actually a 'house-cut" for them ?

 

Looking forward for the trier sample too ! Interested in this new line, spreading out from Lai sifu, which looks to be another great value. 

post #2691 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchen View Post

@SeamasterLux was the fabric branded? i see lots of vendors selling cut lengths, both branded and unbranded, and am wary of fakes or bad quality

 

It wasn't but I'm mostly buying from two very serious sellers!

post #2692 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Um....in that threat the fit pic looks quiet bad...
maybe the customer request, but dont see any 'modern cut"...

*but agree with WWChan as being able to do the more modern cut (or any cuts, just see some of the stuff they made over the weekend) 

Just quick glance, agree that some of them do have fit problems. Since the master cutter is in HK and they do fitting in US. I think they didn't do a good job in fitting stage.

For modern cutting (non-shanghai old fashion cut), it is different from old cut like, 1) the chest line is based on some formula to distribute among different parts instead of non-sense grading . 2) the seam of front seam are partially offset by seam of under seam. 3) the roll line is displaced forward. Modern cut basically means more rational
Edited by Gatsbyu - 9/9/15 at 1:14am
post #2693 of 3698
WW Chan definitely has a house cut. They can tweet bits and bobs but It wont bea full blown full volume drape cut, which I had been so used to for a long time.
post #2694 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

WW Chan definitely has a house cut. They can tweet bits and bobs but It wont bea full blown full volume drape cut, which I had been so used to for a long time.

 

Interesting, so in HK, do you find any tailor / shop that can fit your likes of drape cut ?

 

Or did you need to "train" a tailor to cut your likes (as @seamaster has done to NK tailor for his French style) 

 

From my understanding....WWChan is really not cheap....AT ALL...why the experiment ???? (I heard their trouser is on par with Ambrosi... in term of price) 

post #2695 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Interesting, so in HK, do you find any tailor / shop that can fit your likes of drape cut ?

Or did you need to "train" a tailor to cut your likes (as @seamaster
 has done to NK tailor for his French style) 

From my understanding....WWChan is really not cheap....AT ALL...why the experiment ???? (I heard their trouser is on par with Ambrosi... in term of price) 

I found overall Grand Tailor made the best old London Drape cut for me. I have spent a lot of time with Lai to get what I want so far. I just think Lai's make is different and perhaps more old Shanghai with the overall softer construction. Grand Tailor's coat in any kind of cloth feels stiffer (either with or without the black interlining).

WW Chan actually has been better priced recently with the additional fabric choices. Price is not too bad.

Also it gets really bored to have just one tailor making you everything all.
post #2696 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


I found overall Grand Tailor made the best old London Drape cut for me. I have spent a lot of time with Lai to get what I want so far. I just think Lai's make is different and perhaps more old Shanghai with the overall softer construction. Grand Tailor's coat in any kind of cloth feels stiffer (either with or without the black interlining).

WW Chan actually has been better priced recently with the additional fabric choices. Price is not too bad.

Also it gets really bored to have just one tailor making you everything all.

 

Grant Tailor, seems doesnt get much exposed here....are they similar structure as Mr. Lai tailor shop ?

 

Interesting you talked about fabric choice, in terms of suiting, is there any fabric that one cannot get but only the tailor shop can do ?

(I know for shirting that AC has some exclusive deal) and sure if the tailor's mark up on fabric is not that bad it is sure better to get via them to save the trouble and time. 

 

Just saw your old post about the "Ambrosi style" from local master, interesting, wonder if they still offers it. 

 

I know you pursue the more structure and hard British look, but do you have any chance to know where one can get for the soft Italian look ? 

post #2697 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

 

Grant Tailor, seems doesnt get much exposed here....are they similar structure as Mr. Lai tailor shop ?

 

Interesting you talked about fabric choice, in terms of suiting, is there any fabric that one cannot get but only the tailor shop can do ?

(I know for shirting that AC has some exclusive deal) and sure if the tailor's mark up on fabric is not that bad it is sure better to get via them to save the trouble and time. 

 

Just saw your old post about the "Ambrosi style" from local master, interesting, wonder if they still offers it. 

 

I know you pursue the more structure and hard British look, but do you have any chance to know where one can get for the soft Italian look ? 

 

Just speaking about soft Italian look with a friend and although it doesn't suit me all the time, WW Chan has made me a shirtsleeve shoulder that is lovely from an 8oz fabric. 
As for local Ambrosi style, its available but not a "money maker" for tailors as you would think.  Why not try Armoury for RTW ambrosi before a commission?
-
An example of your question on tailors that offer fabrics you cannot get is Loro Piana.  This summer offerings are available to top tier shops only.  Even local distributors don't carry these seasonals. 

post #2698 of 3698

Does a RTW Ambrossi exist?

post #2699 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by baromatic View Post
 

 

Just speaking about soft Italian look with a friend and although it doesn't suit me all the time, WW Chan has made me a shirtsleeve shoulder that is lovely from an 8oz fabric. 
As for local Ambrosi style, its available but not a "money maker" for tailors as you would think.  Why not try Armoury for RTW ambrosi before a commission?
-
An example of your question on tailors that offer fabrics you cannot get is Loro Piana.  This summer offerings are available to top tier shops only.  Even local distributors don't carry these seasonals. 

Thanks for the advise ! 

 

I looked up the online store, no sign of Ambrosi, would I find that in the HK store?

http://shop.thearmoury.com/categories/trousers?limit=all&mode=grid

post #2700 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Thanks for the advise ! 

I looked up the online store, no sign of Ambrosi, would I find that in the HK store?
http://shop.thearmoury.com/categories/trousers?limit=all&mode=grid

Ah, my mistake. I was thinking about the trunk shows. Never heard of rtw ambrosi. satisfied.gif
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