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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 179

post #2671 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post
 

 

Look at the trousers draft on the right, those are not the parameters used for shanghai cut, more like western cutting (not Japanese cutting and Korean for sure, I guess it is from Germany). 

 

 

The end of shoulder are little bit fallen down, this is common in one Germany cutting. Introverted sleeve but vertically set, also very common in Germany cut. (Surprisingly, the sleeve is set little bit back) 

 

Also, the coat is quite straight, not common in shanghai cut.

 

 

Spoon tailor is a HK tailor with operation in US. In HK, they do accept customer order, restricted to referral. From the picture, the side panel and forepart keep the same vertical distance from waist to hip. Not like the skirt cut in traditional shanghai cut.

 

 

Very good iron work. You can't find it from many middle tier tailors this thread mentioned, because most of them outsources CMT to the factories in China, those factories don't do diligent work.

 

When I read this thread, I saw many people want to make suit in HK. However, it is very time & money consuming to try tailor made suits one after another. People rely on feedback from the others. Unfortunately, those feedback is more like marketing from what I see.

 

From a tailor point of view, many local tailors do very good craftsmanship, much better than those "middle tier tailors" mentioned here, like british textile, e-rave, luxe tuxedo.

 

Is this the Spoon we are talking about? The pic inside looks......

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/225112/spoon-tailor-hong-kong-bespoke-operation-in-san-francisco

post #2672 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Is this the Spoon we are talking about? The pic inside looks......

http://www.styleforum.net/t/225112/spoon-tailor-hong-kong-bespoke-operation-in-san-francisco

Yes. They moved to San Francisco, but the workshop reminded in HK. What is the "look" ?
post #2673 of 3698

That's a pretty cool jacket.

post #2674 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

Hi guys,

X-post with the WAYWT thread

Sport coat made in HK by New Kingston (they travel a lot though and I've rarely been to HK to see them)

CMT for a jacket is 300-350 euros
2-piece suit around 450
Fully canvassed obviously

N.B.: lapel buttonhole made in Paris though





Can someone explain what this is all about. Jacket looks amazing. How was it only 300-350 euro CMT? Can I send something by mail for replication?
How is their construction quality? You said this was fully canvassed, what about other details. Also what do you mean when you say "lapel buttonhole made in Paris"?
post #2675 of 3698

Yeah I'm interested what the fabric is as well.

 

fwiw he said 300-350 CMT, so that's price not including fabric, so the total cost is more I imagine.

post #2676 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Yeah I'm interested what the fabric is as well.

fwiw he said 300-350 CMT, so that's price not including fabric, so the total cost is more I imagine.

Still a good price.
post #2677 of 3698

It is indeed, the jacket looks really good. I wonder how New Kingston compares with Dream, I think the pricing is similar? Dream did just put their prices up.

 

Still I wanted to make sure poster knew it wasn't 300-350 euros total because that would be an incredible steal.

post #2678 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Plus I have a 3pc with WW Chan in making so at the moment I have enough.

Charles, is everything OK? This isn't like you at all wink.gif
post #2679 of 3698

Just received my shirt jacket from Moda Republic (inspired by Crompton's), and I'm very happy with it. Will post pictures if I get a chance.

post #2680 of 3698
p.s. Sorry for not writing in full sentence with perfected grammar, lack of time this weekend.

1st Ftting Stage : WW Chan Hong Kong



General Observation: Extremely nice fitting area, fitting room itself fixed with 360 degree mirrors which comes handy in second fitting. the middle community section is spacious. No tricks played on lightings. One of the best fitting experience I ever have.

Corum: I did not ask Patrick to come but however there was 3 people including Patrick serving me. Patrick and the other seems to know what they are doing, some jargon was used. Lots of communication between myself and Patrick on all matters. Overall very good. Fitting lasted for solid one hour.

The baste garment: Sorry for the lack of photographic evidence. Trouser baste was done "run of the mill" manner, Waistcoat had linen canvass with hand stitching. Coat had full mid weight horsehair (certainly not horsetail) canvass with hand stitching only on the chest area. Did not ask the original of the canvass. nice homemade shoulder pads which are thick but not heavy. Dislike only one sleeves was provided.

Cloth : Dugdale mohair bunch 10 1/2 oz) was a very good, hard the stiffness and smooth-hand I like, even better than the Harrison Evolution in my opinion. Colour is great in dark silver sheen.

The style and fit: unfortunately lots of tuning due to their modern house cut, fit itself is pretty good. sleeves and trouser lengthen, trouser end widen and shape roomier, waistcoat with more material on the waistline, waistcoat shoulder remake, jacket front and back balance modified, lapel shape discussed. Particular impressed with the shoulder line in first go, they seems to have modify the paddings for this baste. Noted that the pleats, waistline are good at first sight. Did not really examine the back as premature with the coat balance so far. I specifically ask for high collar so less shirt and closer quarter for next fitting, also straighter lower quarter.

Overall: Whilst the service is more professional and detailed, I prefer Lai and Grand Tailor as they seems to understand what style I like more. However, I think Lai and Grand Tailor are not too worried with minor refinements at the first fitting, maybe it is due to WW Chan's outsourcing.

Am I happy? Yes

What should I have done? 1) Should have asked them whether they will fuse a layer of supporting interlining under the stitched canvass (actually will prefer that to give a firmer coat look) 2) Should have examine the sleeve roping more, onyl had on sight and should have ask more volume on the side as well....




post #2681 of 3698
Chan only provide one sleeve at fitting because they take an arm and a leg at payment time! But the service is great, the store very refined, and the location ideal for busy bankers, lawyers and so on. Plus they really do cut and keep the paper patterns.
post #2682 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post

Charles, is everything OK? This isn't like you at all wink.gif

Lol dressing gets pretty much the same when I have to walk around outdoor with fully packed attache in the HK summer heat. Plus I really need a dark grey suit which Car does not seems to have any good candidate in store at the moment.
post #2683 of 3698

Shirt jacket from Moda. Going to get it in a muted safariesque color in linen next time, kinda like it though.

 

post #2684 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I have no idea. Since I knew a customer had already ordered from Wong's production, therefore I suggest to sit tight and wait for updates.
Thank you for your kind words.

Nowadays time are very tight for me, therefore a detailed report like my experience with Graham Browne will be very unlikely. In due course, I will try to take some pictures of my fitting and the finished garment. However do forgive my GF's poor photograph skills.

I don't think I will try Gordan Yao in the future as I have been told they had changed to a inferior production line recently.

Good morning; no' your GF's photography is fine and a few photographs showing Chan's work would be good, fit of the trousers front and rear and the full inside of the coat especially.

Surprised you say that of Gordon Yao. I had him make me another two suits when I was in HK earlier in the year and there was certainly no difference to those he has made for me over the last 18 years or so. I recognised his tailor when he came over to look at the fittings and Peter Pak was still in his shop.

I must ask him when I see him.
post #2685 of 3698

Hey guys, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, but do you guys think Jantzen did alright with this shirt? It's my first tailored shirt so I have no idea what to expect. Are the arms wrinkly simply because I haven't ironed it? Is it also supposed to be that 'puffy'? Or is it supposed to be slimmer? When I wind up my arm to write stuff, the cloth seems to just about stick to the outline of my arms, so I think it's a decent fit right?  Also, do you guys think the sleeves are the right length? Some have commented it may be a bit too short.

 

Is there any need go back to Jantzen for any alterations? 

 

 

 

 

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