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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 178

post #2656 of 2666
I asked Lai to help me make coats for my clients (He was in TsT) so I have seen his drafting from scratch. Lai'cutting is nothing more than adjusting an old shanghai cutting. One major difference built in his drafting is less chest ease. Sleeve drafting is old, body also.

In Hong Kong, only very very few tailor houses truly knows modern pattern making. brown tailor , spoon tailor, wwchan are the examples.

Also, it is not that difficult to ask the tailor to do what you need, as long as the guys asking can demonstrate how to do it.
post #2657 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post

I asked Lai to help me make coats for my clients (He was in TsT) so I have seen his drafting from scratch. Lai'cutting is nothing more than adjusting an old shanghai cutting. One major difference built in his drafting is less chest ease. Sleeve drafting is old, body also.

In Hong Kong, only very very few tailor houses truly knows modern pattern making. brown tailor , spoon tailor, wwchan are the examples.

Also, it is not that difficult to ask the tailor to do what you need, as long as the guys asking can demonstrate how to do it.

 

Agree Browns can do quiet a large range of style, I think their shop-man does a good job in sorting out the style. 

 

WW Chan still gives me an old school cut, but correct me if I am wrong. Never a customer but from their IG (even those from the son;s) they still look quiet traditional to my eyes. 

 

Never heard of Spoon... they have a shop front in HK ?

post #2658 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


The quick answer is no. Lai's cut rely mostly on dart shaping, with trim waist, sleeves and no drape (the usual stuff). L&L cut is more round, more open quarter, shaping is done mostly via side darts.

Long answer is yes if you have the time to discuss with him in great detail (most time spent on ensuring he actually understands), and ensuring once he understands your advice would be followed.

In any event, I actually find L&L cut does not suit lean bodies. Most of the time, I find the open quarter on the skirt area ridiculous and too causal for any work suit.

Note: thank you for your compliment but some HK members here are even more knowledgeable. I only wish Gazman and MaoMao are still active members here.

 

Ha, Liverano looks best to me on ex-armoury Ethan, the other boys doesnt quiet carry it as they are rather slim for the dartless....but dont worry about me, my guts will carry them well :slayer:

 

That is really cool one can directly talk / chat with the tailor (is Mr. Lai the in the fitter ? / cutter ? role) 

post #2659 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Ha, Liverano looks best to me on ex-armoury Ethan, the other boys doesnt quiet carry it as they are rather slim for the dartless....but dont worry about me, my guts will carry them well icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif

That is really cool one can directly talk / chat with the tailor (is Mr. Lai the in the fitter ? / cutter ? role) 

I guess it all depends what people wants.

Mr Lai is the cutter and fitter and Mr Car is the front man. However, I am afraid that Mr Lai is not a chatty person so you have to get your point straight. I also hope that you speak Cantonese since Lai does not speak English. Mr Car's English is alright but don't expect perfection.

Almost forgot this, Car is also running a new line of production where a Wong sifu would do the cutting and fitting, with the rest in small HK workshop. Price is more competitive than Lai's production. I knew that the first product from Wong sifu would be out very soon so you may also be interested it that.
post #2660 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

 

Agree Browns can do quiet a large range of style, I think their shop-man does a good job in sorting out the style. 

 

WW Chan still gives me an old school cut, but correct me if I am wrong. Never a customer but from their IG (even those from the son;s) they still look quiet traditional to my eyes. 

 

Never heard of Spoon... they have a shop front in HK ?

 

Look at the trousers draft on the right, those are not the parameters used for shanghai cut, more like western cutting (not Japanese cutting and Korean for sure, I guess it is from Germany). 

 

 

The end of shoulder are little bit fallen down, this is common in one Germany cutting. Introverted sleeve but vertically set, also very common in Germany cut. (Surprisingly, the sleeve is set little bit back) 

 

Also, the coat is quite straight, not common in shanghai cut.

 

 

Spoon tailor is a HK tailor with operation in US. In HK, they do accept customer order, restricted to referral. From the picture, the side panel and forepart keep the same vertical distance from waist to hip. Not like the skirt cut in traditional shanghai cut.

 

 

Very good iron work. You can't find it from many middle tier tailors this thread mentioned, because most of them outsources CMT to the factories in China, those factories don't do diligent work.

 

When I read this thread, I saw many people want to make suit in HK. However, it is very time & money consuming to try tailor made suits one after another. People rely on feedback from the others. Unfortunately, those feedback is more like marketing from what I see.

 

From a tailor point of view, many local tailors do very good craftsmanship, much better than those "middle tier tailors" mentioned here, like british textile, e-rave, luxe tuxedo.

post #2661 of 2666
Sounds interesting.
But what's the difference between Lai and Wong?
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I guess it all depends what people wants.

Mr Lai is the cutter and fitter and Mr Car is the front man. However, I am afraid that Mr Lai is not a chatty person so you have to get your point straight. I also hope that you speak Cantonese since Lai does not speak English. Mr Car's English is alright but don't expect perfection.

Almost forgot this, Car is also running a new line of production where a Wong sifu would do the cutting and fitting, with the rest in small HK workshop. Price is more competitive than Lai's production. I knew that the first product from Wong sifu would be out very soon so you may also be interested it that.
post #2662 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Almost forgot this...

I recently had made an order with WW Chan last weekend.

Are people generally interested for me to take some pictures in regard to my experience?

As per my usual taste, I specifically ask Arnold and his colleagues to make me a very firm shoulder and old school vibe cut.

Just for joke, it is priceless to see that young gent, while taking my order and specification, was foo.gif when I told him that "ensure you put more shoulder padding and roping then your instructions photo album"

Just for record, I have chosen the new Dugdale mohair bunch, dark grey in 10 1/2 oz, three piece, 3b SB coat with fishmouth lapel, 3 button horse-shape wasitcoat and double pleated real straight cut trousers.

Good evening - it would certainly be very interest to see some pictures of WWC's work. If you in progress but certainly as you did with Graham Browne front/side/rear views with and without the coat. Seeing how he cuts and the rear view in relation to the high waistline you like would be very helpful. The inside of the finished coat is also good to see - much neglected by tailors and needs to be tidily done. Thanks for offering.

You are a very experienced buyer and so how your instructions are both shaped and carried out adds to the interest compared to novices who allow the tailor to choose to do more or less what/how they want to do things.
post #2663 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I have promised Car to do it for a very long time....
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)















In gist, they are very good value for money, most of the bells and dings are included. I think they are equally good then the other tailor shop I frequently uses.

That is a nicely finished garment as I would expect from you, many thanks for posting. You have undoubted skill in managing a tailor to achieve a fine outcome. How did you have the back/waistline cut - fish tail back and high waistline for braces?

Have you/do you have any plans to try Gordon Yao? That would be very interesting to compare with WW Chan.

Duncan

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

post #2664 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigbigJohnny View Post

Sounds interesting.
But what's the difference between Lai and Wong?

I have no idea. Since I knew a customer had already ordered from Wong's production, therefore I suggest to sit tight and wait for updates.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Good evening - it would certainly be very interest to see some pictures of WWC's work. If you in progress but certainly as you did with Graham Browne front/side/rear views with and without the coat. Seeing how he cuts and the rear view in relation to the high waistline you like would be very helpful. The inside of the finished coat is also good to see - much neglected by tailors and needs to be tidily done. Thanks for offering.

You are a very experienced buyer and so how your instructions are both shaped and carried out adds to the interest compared to novices who allow the tailor to choose to do more or less what/how they want to do things.

Thank you for your kind words.

Nowadays time are very tight for me, therefore a detailed report like my experience with Graham Browne will be very unlikely. In due course, I will try to take some pictures of my fitting and the finished garment. However do forgive my GF's poor photograph skills.

I don't think I will try Gordan Yao in the future as I have been told they had changed to a inferior production line recently.
post #2665 of 2666

@add911_11  - Also interested in the outcome of the Tailor Wong vs Tailor Lai ! Did you commission anything from Tailor Wong yet ?

 

From your description.....wouldnt the Tailor Wong route be better as it seems like everything is .....done in Hong Kong (I could be wrong, I read the price is lower...so it is so call the Cantonese work instead?) ?

 

@Gatsbyu - too technical for my mind...but really cool that these knowledge could be passed around, this is really the knowledge we need when you guys say about the communication with tailors :worship:

 

Agree with the "marketing" part .....now a lot of forum / the internet itself is just being abused ....guess we just have to be smart on that

post #2666 of 2666
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

@add911_11 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@add911_11
  - Also interested in the outcome of the Tailor Wong vs Tailor Lai ! Did you commission anything from Tailor Wong yet ?

From your description.....wouldnt the Tailor Wong route be better as it seems like everything is .....done in Hong Kong (I could be wrong, I read the price is lower...so it is so call the Cantonese work instead?) ?

@Gatsbyu
 - too technical for my mind...but really cool that these knowledge could be passed around, this is really the knowledge we need when you guys say about the communication with tailors worship.gif

Agree with the "marketing" part .....now a lot of forum / the internet itself is just being abused ....guess we just have to be smart on that


I have not tried Wong sifu yet. I am pending for the trier's outcome.

Plus I have a 3pc with WW Chan in making so at the moment I have enough.
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