I asked Lai to help me make coats for my clients (He was in TsT) so I have seen his drafting from scratch. Lai'cutting is nothing more than adjusting an old shanghai cutting. One major difference built in his drafting is less chest ease. Sleeve drafting is old, body also.
In Hong Kong, only very very few tailor houses truly knows modern pattern making. brown tailor , spoon tailor, wwchan are the examples.
Also, it is not that difficult to ask the tailor to do what you need, as long as the guys asking can demonstrate how to do it.
Agree Browns can do quiet a large range of style, I think their shop-man does a good job in sorting out the style.
WW Chan still gives me an old school cut, but correct me if I am wrong. Never a customer but from their IG (even those from the son;s) they still look quiet traditional to my eyes.
Never heard of Spoon... they have a shop front in HK ?