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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 177

post #2641 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

haha I think i have grown a size in the last 2 years actually...

This is special because I specifically ask Lai to make a voluminous cut (think of Sexton)...

Sexton ? Edward Sexton ?!
post #2642 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post

Sexton ? Edward Sexton ?!

That was the idea in my mind during fitting. Comfortable and firm chest.

I still think Lai cannot make British stiff chest BTW
post #2643 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


That was the idea in my mind during fitting. Comfortable and firm chest.

I still think Lai cannot make British stiff chest BTW

 

Does that mean simply a fuller cut ? or anything to do with the structure ....dartless ? sack suit ? 

 

Remember reading somewhere Lai sifu make somewhat a 'softer' suit ....so not surprise you compare about him not having able to fulfill the British hard look 

post #2644 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Does that mean simply a fuller cut ? or anything to do with the structure ....dartless ? sack suit ? 

Remember reading somewhere Lai sifu make somewhat a 'softer' suit ....so not surprise you compare about him not having able to fulfill the British hard look 

It is more about the roundness of the chest drape, looser waistline, while still maintaining a close fitting back. In this cut, I think Lai had move the armhole a little lower and wider sleeves to compliment the cut...

Acutally dartless per-se does not make the coat fits "looser".... it just a tailoring technique adopted.

Similarly, sack suit does not necessary mean the typical 80s suit.... my understanding is sack suit often have a very small account (even less than my example) waistline and there is generally only modest drape on the chest.

For good sack suits illustrations, pls search "Caid tailors"....

In other words, sack suits can look good.

On the second part, this is because Lai, albeit had improved from time to time, still not 100% in tune of my understanding of a strong British shape. I still think he is trying to use his "quasi-Italian" cut and merely throw in some British element... the whole package is not old British unfortunately.

I don't mean Lai's cut is bad... but just for him to cut something which is in conjunction with my belief there are still some way to go.

hope it helps.
post #2645 of 3688
add911_11, your suit need a better pressing!
Who pressed the lapel? baldy[1].gif

post #2646 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

It is more about the roundness of the chest drape, looser waistline, while still maintaining a close fitting back. In this cut, I think Lai had move the armhole a little lower and wider sleeves to compliment the cut...

Acutally dartless per-se does not make the coat fits "looser".... it just a tailoring technique adopted.

Similarly, sack suit does not necessary mean the typical 80s suit.... my understanding is sack suit often have a very small account (even less than my example) waistline and there is generally only modest drape on the chest.

For good sack suits illustrations, pls search "Caid tailors"....

In other words, sack suits can look good.

On the second part, this is because Lai, albeit had improved from time to time, still not 100% in tune of my understanding of a strong British shape. I still think he is trying to use his "quasi-Italian" cut and merely throw in some British element... the whole package is not old British unfortunately.

I don't mean Lai's cut is bad... but just for him to cut something which is in conjunction with my belief there are still some way to go.

hope it helps.

I can just see an old shanghai cut, loose and straight.. Buttonhole and pad stitching is good btw.
post #2647 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

add911_11, your suit need a better pressing! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Who pressed the lapel? baldy[1].gif


Haha pls forgive my maid for that matter. I am very messy these days.
post #2648 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


It is more about the roundness of the chest drape, looser waistline, while still maintaining a close fitting back. In this cut, I think Lai had move the armhole a little lower and wider sleeves to compliment the cut...

Acutally dartless per-se does not make the coat fits "looser".... it just a tailoring technique adopted.

Similarly, sack suit does not necessary mean the typical 80s suit.... my understanding is sack suit often have a very small account (even less than my example) waistline and there is generally only modest drape on the chest.

For good sack suits illustrations, pls search "Caid tailors"....

In other words, sack suits can look good.

On the second part, this is because Lai, albeit had improved from time to time, still not 100% in tune of my understanding of a strong British shape. I still think he is trying to use his "quasi-Italian" cut and merely throw in some British element... the whole package is not old British unfortunately.

I don't mean Lai's cut is bad... but just for him to cut something which is in conjunction with my belief there are still some way to go.

hope it helps.

 

@add911_11, you look too young to carry this vase amount of knowledge, impressive view ~ Interesting you go from Lai then to WW Chan (but from what I read seems like a somewhat negative experience so far) 

 

Always want to pay a visit to Lai, but never have the chance since I am in and out of HK. And this summer was so hot and rainny whenever I visited.....

 

As we are on the page of 'dartless', do you know if Lai could perform this technique like the liverano or ...Brooks Bro stuff ? 

Or is there a house cut / style he is good at ?

 

*Your maid knows how to press suit lapel :slayer: !!! Or....you referrring your other half as 'maid' :rotflmao:

post #2649 of 3688

For a university student who can't really afford Ascot Chang or the other high-end tailors, where should I get my dress shirts? Is Jantzen still good value for its price? Thanks a lot. 

post #2650 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by deshoopy View Post

For a university student who can't really afford Ascot Chang or the other high-end tailors, where should I get my dress shirts? Is Jantzen still good value for its price? Thanks a lot. 

Actually the shirt making factories in HK are doing stuff very similar. Just ask any tailor u feel good and ask for a fitting by basting it.
post #2651 of 3688
Check toomanytailors.com

I
Quote:
Originally Posted by deshoopy View Post

For a university student who can't really afford Ascot Chang or the other high-end tailors, where should I get my dress shirts? Is Jantzen still good value for its price? Thanks a lot. 
post #2652 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by deshoopy View Post

For a university student who can't really afford Ascot Chang or the other high-end tailors, where should I get my dress shirts? Is Jantzen still good value for its price? Thanks a lot. 

I guess it's useful to know where in the world you are, and why you need tailored shirts.
post #2653 of 3688
Hi gents,

Not sure if this should be in the Unfunded liabilities thread or if I should just ask Merino Brothers, but thought I would try the collective wisdom of the Hong Kong thread first. Heading over from Melbourne late October with the family for about 2 weeks in Hong Kong and will look to get something made whilst away and will probably try Dream Bespoke, or one of the other mid-tier options. I'll definitely be making a trip to The Armoury just to check out the store and may be tempted by some of the goodies there, but will try and stay strong......

My question is, I would love to get a chalk stripe navy or gray 6 Button DB - but was looking for some guidance on fabric books so I can try and get everything in place prior to landing, any pointers or preferences?

Thanks in advance!
post #2654 of 3688
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@add911_11
, you look too young to carry this vase amount of knowledge, impressive view ~ Interesting you go from Lai then to WW Chan (but from what I read seems like a somewhat negative experience so far) 

Always want to pay a visit to Lai, but never have the chance since I am in and out of HK. And this summer was so hot and rainny whenever I visited.....

As we are on the page of 'dartless', do you know if Lai could perform this technique like the liverano or ...Brooks Bro stuff ? 
Or is there a house cut / style he is good at ?

*Your maid knows how to press suit lapel icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif !!! Or....you referrring your other half as 'maid' rotflmao.gif

The quick answer is no. Lai's cut rely mostly on dart shaping, with trim waist, sleeves and no drape (the usual stuff). L&L cut is more round, more open quarter, shaping is done mostly via side darts.

Long answer is yes if you have the time to discuss with him in great detail (most time spent on ensuring he actually understands), and ensuring once he understands your advice would be followed.

In any event, I actually find L&L cut does not suit lean bodies. Most of the time, I find the open quarter on the skirt area ridiculous and too causal for any work suit.

Note: thank you for your compliment but some HK members here are even more knowledgeable. I only wish Gazman and MaoMao are still active members here.
post #2655 of 3688
I asked Lai to help me make coats for my clients (He was in TsT) so I have seen his drafting from scratch. Lai'cutting is nothing more than adjusting an old shanghai cutting. One major difference built in his drafting is less chest ease. Sleeve drafting is old, body also.

In Hong Kong, only very very few tailor houses truly knows modern pattern making. brown tailor , spoon tailor, wwchan are the examples.

Also, it is not that difficult to ask the tailor to do what you need, as long as the guys asking can demonstrate how to do it.
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