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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 156

post #2326 of 3698

Welcome to the forum, t.  I moved your post over here so the members with experience can help you out.  Best of luck.

post #2327 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by tshirtandshorts View Post

Hi,

I'm going to HK for about six days and would like to get a tuxedo made for playing in my local community orchestra.  I emailed a few tailors and while some caught my eye, WW Chan for example, a tux from them is way over my budget.  I'm not really knowledgeable on menswear, so I've been reading through the forums and trying to nail down the style I want and have a budget of about $1000-2000 USD.  I will be wearing the tuxedo two times a year, and would like something that lasts. 

Here's a little info about me:
5/9", 180 lbs.  slim build with a bit of a gut (working on losing that!) and broad shoulders

Here's what I'm thinking at the moment:


Jacket • fully canvassed  • black • Single button • Grosgrain covered buttons • Single breasted • Peaked lapel, grosgrain

 





Pants • black • Suspenders buttons • Grosgrain braid • Flat front

 





Shirt • white • piqué bib • Turndown collar • horn buttons • French cuffed

 





Vest• black grosgrain

 





Bow tie • black grosgrain • semi-butterfly

 




suspenders • black

Pocket square • White silk?

Grosgrain may be out of my budget based on the few tailors I have contacted, but if possible, I would like to get it.  I'm hoping to get everything made at once so the fabrics will match.  Any suggestions for a fabric for mild California weather?  I tend to sweat a lot so something lightweight but durable is desired.

I'm currently thinking about visiting Lee Baron, who I believe can make me a tuxedo within my budget.  Any suggestions for a first time bespoke experience?  Any tailor recommendations?  If there's a decent tailor who can make a tuxedo for cheaper, even though quality may suffer a little bit, I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks!

I don't know if its worth it to get a tux made if you are only going to wear it twice a year.

I would go to Jos Banks when there's a sale and get a tux for about $250 but just my $.02
post #2328 of 3698
Twice a year isn't so bad smile.gif

Lee Baron should be fine for you; there are a couple of others at the same sort of price bracket, I don't think you'd want to go to a place that is significantly cheaper.
post #2329 of 3698

The wise thing to do would be to get the Jos A. Bank tuxedo for about $270, but I've never been called wise.  :) 

 

After reading through all the threads here, I think I'll notice the little details in a nice suit that I would have never noticed before, and they will start to bother me like a small rock in my shoe.  If things go well, I may just get dress shirts made in HK as it's hard for me to find shirts that fit me.

 

Do you think 8 oz. fabric would be durable enough to last at least a decade?  Sorry if my questions are way out there; this is all new to me.

post #2330 of 3698
If you wear it twice a year, yes. That is probably about the weight of a pair of chinos.

Unless you are very prone to overheating, I would get 12 oz though because it will drape better and wrinkle less,
post #2331 of 3698

There is a black 12 oz barathea cloth in the Dugdales Formal Wear Bunch - number 8742 - which is 70% Super 100s and 30% Mohair.  Dugdales have a good reputation for producing a decent cloth at fair prices.

 

Alternatively the Smiths Woollens Formal bunch is under consideration.  The 10 oz Midnight Barathea SW8810 is a bit of an SF touchstone - Foo's wedding tux was made in that and you wouldn't have to look too hard to find the photo.  Given that you plan to wear your tux for orchestral performances where everyone else will likely be in black too I'd maybe stay with black rather than midnight blue, but by all means read around on SF as the merits of both have been debated a great deal.

 

It may also be easier to source matching trimmings if the cloth is truly black.

 

One way to save time in Hong Kong is to have the cloth chosen first, and if possible pre-ordered (at your expense).  In your case you shouldn't be looking to go CMT, but swallow the tailor's mark-up on the cloth and check the material closely at the fitting for any fents or flaws.  

 

If you are going to get a waistcoat made as well you need to specify the shape clearly.  WW Chan's website has some useful line drawings of various styles 

 

http://www.wwchan.com/Style.aspx?StyleCategorieId=1&Page=2

 

I like VS8 and VS9.  

 

Your formal trousers should be cut to sit much higher on your body than normal trousers.  This will also mean that there is no chance of your shirt peeking out between waistcoat and trousers.  Consider getting a cummerbund made at the same time to give you the option of not wearing the waistcoat.

 

Your jacket specification is truly classic, as long as you remember to be clear that you want jetted pockets with no flaps.

 

I assume you've read

 

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Intro.htm

 

With all HK tailoring you must take your time to get every detail agreed on and written down at the time you place the order and get measured, then checked again at the fittings and collection.  Oversights and mistakes happen, particularly where you are trying to get something made quickly and relatively cheaply.

post #2332 of 3698
On the subject of cloth for dinner jackets, and also Hong Kong bespoke, then this thread may interest you.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/343767/mto-vs-mtm-tuxedo/30

Sadly as all too often happens we never get to see the finished product. So please, if you do go down this route, post a follow-up or two with your experience and some fit pics.
post #2333 of 3698

According to this guy in this article: http://www.cnbc.com/id/102424837

 

Not sure what year and where.  Heck my dad's MTM suits in HK back in the late 80s were already over $300 USD.

post #2334 of 3698

hi , anybody knows what's the CMT price for a shirt in Ascot Chang now?

post #2335 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoutonBarton View Post

hi , anybody knows what's the CMT price for a shirt in Ascot Chang now?

About $110 USD
post #2336 of 3698

Hadn't that gone up to $1150 HKD around CNY 2015, so more like US$ 140 before the cost of fabric.

 

I believe that CMT is only available to existing customers whose pattern is already known, so you have to place that 3 shirt minimum order first (though AFAIK one shirt can be made up first as a fit test before the others are completed).  Staff in the Princes Building quoted me shirts in house fabric prices from HKD1450 and in Thomas Mason from HKD2250.  Not cheap by any means.

post #2337 of 3698
Wow Penfold I don't know you have tried so many tailors in Hong Kong.

Do you get your shirts made in Ascot Chan or independent shirtmakers?
post #2338 of 3698

I use Graly in Wan Chai, with buttons I've bought myself up in Sham Shui Po.  450 HKD per shirt in house fabrics, 800 for Thomas Mason, 300-350 for CMT depending on how much the cutter/salesman Tim feels like charging me that day.

 

The fit is fairly good and I can cope with the occasional flaws in construction/sewing because of the price.  Obviously AC are the best but the cost is too much for me.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/405608/hong-kong-shirt-makers

post #2339 of 3698

Thanks for all the great information.  I'll try to update with pics of the basted and final fittings.

 

Cheers!

post #2340 of 3698

Hi guys,

First thanks for this thread, lot of useful tips and helpful for beginner like me, now I know a little bit the "Tailors world" :)

 

Let me tell you that I don't know anything at all but let me explain what I'd like to have.

 

My sister getting married in August so I'd like to have a nice suit for this special day.

I'd like to order a jacket and pants, I'm not very difficult and don't need extra special coton or soy, I just want a classy suit who fits me well.

I never wear suits (only own a very cheap one I bought for a previous wedding) for my work (always casual) or my personnal life (always casual too :p).

 

About the budget I have to say that's quite tight as I'd like something arround 5000HKD (for jacket and pants), is it possible ? 

Then I'd like a shirt and shoes, is with 1500 HKD I can have something nice ?

 

During my researches few names of tailors comes back, I saw a lot of post talking about Sam's tailor or Lee Baron, they have good feedback right ?

 

Sorry for all the questions and for my very newbie knowledge about tailor ^^"

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