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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 153

post #2281 of 3695
In fact some tailors use "fitting canvasses"; these are canvasses which do not go into final jackets but are used and reused in skeleton bastes. They tend to look old and worn. So if you see a permanently made canvas which looks like it's 10 years old in your baste, it's only a fitting canvas. It's a good thing.
post #2282 of 3695

hello all, first time poster on SF and I am looking for some advice. I have read through the past few months of this forum so I feel much more educated, but I am now questioning whether it is worth buying a suit while I am in HK.

 

Here are the particulars of my situation:

- live in Bay Area

- 5'11, 220. Carry most of the weight in my torso.

- last good suit I owned was a Hugo Boss suit. It was a 44R and a little snug, but fit well in the areas that are tough to fit. It was their Pasolini style, which I take is their more comfortable (i.e. not slim) fit.

- will be in HK for ~4 days in a couple weeks

- would like to spend no more than $800 USD for a 2-piece charcoal suit. 

 

Is it worth buying a suit while I am there? Can I get something substantially better than what I can get here?

post #2283 of 3695
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The other thing I would watch out for are canvasses which appear to have been permanently made up during the skeleton baste fitting stage (the first fitting). I would personally avoid machine sewn canvasses, but even if you do not mind, the canvas should nonetheless only be provisionally sewn (by hand) during the first fitting. Major changes to the forepart can take place during the first fitting, and the canvas often needs to be taken apart again and recomposed and re-sewn. The addition of a gorge dart, changes to neckpoint, change of button stance, change in width of front darts, shoulder slope adjustments, etc. all necessitate changes to the canvas. But if the canvas has already been permanently machine sewn during the first fitting, it will not be picked apart again. It will just be shoehorned into place.

But of course we are now talking about quite abominable tailors who have no regard for the craft. I don't think clothing enthusiasts should buy clothes at this level. I do not think Wiliam Yu should ever be considered as an option. Just too crude.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
In fact some tailors use "fitting canvasses"; these are canvasses which do not go into final jackets but are used and reused in skeleton bastes. They tend to look old and worn. So if you see a permanently made canvas which looks like it's 10 years old in your baste, it's only a fitting canvas. It's a good thing.

I will be very surprised if a decent tailor will attach the canvass fully during the first fitting. This will mean the tailor did not take into account the body of the wearer at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadfromcincy View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
hello all, first time poster on SF and I am looking for some advice. I have read through the past few months of this forum so I feel much more educated, but I am now questioning whether it is worth buying a suit while I am in HK.

Here are the particulars of my situation:
- live in Bay Area
- 5'11, 220. Carry most of the weight in my torso.
- last good suit I owned was a Hugo Boss suit. It was a 44R and a little snug, but fit well in the areas that are tough to fit. It was their Pasolini style, which I take is their more comfortable (i.e. not slim) fit.
- will be in HK for ~4 days in a couple weeks
- would like to spend no more than $800 USD for a 2-piece charcoal suit. 

Is it worth buying a suit while I am there? Can I get something substantially better than what I can get here?

I don't think so. Money is too low and the time is too short. Unless you are willing to wait.
post #2284 of 3695
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post



I don't think so. Money is too low and the time is too short. Unless you are willing to wait.

Agree ~ for that budget with limited fabric pushing but do-able. 

 

With the time limits, unless you have good relationship with the shop / tailor, really doubt something nice could be made 

post #2285 of 3695

Hi All,

 

I'm in Hong Kong and need a morning suit for a wedding in the UK. I think that, considering the number of weddings I will be attending in upcoming months, I'm better off buying something. That said, I'm not that keen to break the bank on something I don't wear regularly. Does anyone have any good recommendations as to where to go in HK for this? Should I just buy the trousers and waistcoat off the peg and only get the coat made? Can I go to any regular HK tailor or should I go to a formalwear specialist?

 

Thanks all.

post #2286 of 3695

I just had Chan make me two double-breasted waistcoats and a pair of high-rise morning suit trousers, all from the Smith's formals book. The results are delightful but not exactly economical. In fact if my fiancee finds out quite how extravagant this was she might call off the wedding! I have a RTW morning coat which I have had altered here, and made some new shirts to set the whole thing off - white cutaway collar and band, striped body with cuffs to match.  

 

I've read elsewhere that a morning coat is a complicated cut - see http://www.englishcut.com/2005/06/04/bodycoats/ for more detail.  That said I've seen one in the window of a more mid-range tailor here in one of the malls around Admiralty and they're not *impossible* to make. There's one on Gordon Yao's website I think. But you certainly would want a cutter/salesman who definitely knew his stuff, which is where Patrick is so good.

 

 

Addited: For more on morning dress, decay of modern morality etc etc then read http://www.bownsbespoke.com/bmdGDGolding.html but the only way to cope with his insufferably priggish tone is to read it aloud in the voice of Uncle Monty from "Withnail & I"... "I often wonder where Norman is now.  Probably wintering with his mother in Guildford.  A cat, rain, Vim under the sink and both bars on.  But old now, old.  There can be no true beauty without decay."


Edited by Penfold - 3/31/15 at 12:56am
post #2287 of 3695

Thanks for your reply. I spoke with a few place in Admiralty and was just quoted circa 12,000. I thought this was quite steep. Is that what I should be expecting?

post #2288 of 3695

I'm no cutter but I guess that the body cut coat and tail parts require quite a lot of cloth, as will the high-rise trousers.  And of course's it's all quite specialist fabric.  But 12000 for the whole caboodle isn't that bad.  The problem is that it is a bet on the salesman's understanding of what you want, the cutter's ability to work with unfamiliar shapes and patterns and the sifu's ability to put it all together.  The place I saw with a morning coat in the window was next door to Charlie Chan.  Not sure they spoke much English, mind you.

 

Herringbone or a medium-weight black barathea for the coat, Smiths and Lessers have some nice cashmere stripe cloth for the trousers and a double-breasted buff linen waistcoat with 24l mother of pearl buttons would be my tip.  

 

Cloth research Summer 2014 @Merino Bros

Pics (Click to show)

 

post #2289 of 3695


Thanks for all this. I spoke to Taipan Tailor and he claimed he knew what he was doing with it. Anyone have any experience with him? He is based in admiralty. I will check out the place next to Charlie chan.

post #2290 of 3695
If you're not a particularly difficult fit then good quality RTW + shipping + alterations could be worth a look, especially for the coat. Less risk of an expensive disaster. Then the fishtail back trousers and waistcoat could be made out here for relatively little. In my experience the fit of the coat doesn't make or break the overall effect quite so much as a normal suit, but that a DB waistcoat and trousers tailored high around the waist does look good, as will the right shirt. HK can definitely make those things.

http://www.pakeman.co.uk/category/80/Morningwear
post #2291 of 3695


Yes, I'm 5ft 10 with a 36 inch chest and 30 waist so I don't think I'm especially difficult. That might be a good idea to be honest. Is there anywhere I might get a RTW one out here as opposed to ordering from pakeman?  

post #2292 of 3695
The only RTW I could even imagine here might be Hackett.

Have you considered vintage? Something that looks rather battered, as if it has been passed down the generations, is considered much smarter in the UK than gleaming brand new... All about stealth wealth, you know. That's my justification for buying the stuff from Chan - that it might one day be worn by a grandson. I asked for the largest possible inlays for future-proofing too.

http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/morningwear/products/vintage-bespoke-tailored-black-worsted-morning-coat-36l
post #2293 of 3695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post

The only RTW I could even imagine here might be Hackett.

Have you considered vintage? Something that looks rather battered, as if it has been passed down the generations, is considered much smarter in the UK than gleaming brand new... All about stealth wealth, you know. That's my justification for buying the stuff from Chan - that it might one day be worn by a grandson. I asked for the largest possible inlays for future-proofing too.

http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/morningwear/products/vintage-bespoke-tailored-black-worsted-morning-coat-36l

Thank you. I went into dream bespoke on my way home and I think I am going to have my morning suit made there. I got on well with them and I think they understood my requirements. It doesn't seem like a bad deal for 85,000
post #2294 of 3695
Anybody dealt with Peter Lee recently? I used him for my button down shirts a few years back and wanted to place another order. I emailed him late last week but haven't heard back yet.
post #2295 of 3695
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinknothing View Post
 It doesn't seem like a bad deal for 85,000

 

I'd like to be your tailor... :D

 

Good luck.  FWIW I think those wider stripes from Lesser work very well.  I used Smiths 8860 I think and that's worked out very well.  

 

Will be interested in seeing how it all pans out so do post photos at the end please.

 

Allow me to recommend a shirt like one of the white collared ones here http://www.styleforum.net/t/405608/hong-kong-shirt-makers/30#post_7740702

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