Very interesting thread, this one. Would just like to shed some light on hand padded canvas vs. machine sewn canvas. The best way to bring together the various layers of canvassing is by hand padding by someone who knows what he's doing/ has been properly trained. The pad stitches on the canvas are not in any way homogenous; over most of the area, the stitches should be lax, i.e. there is give in the thread. You do not pull it taut. In some areas, more limited in area, there should be tension in the thread, i.e. you pull it taut. The full potential for comfort and mouldablity of the canvas is lost when the person sewing the canvas is not sensitive to the nuances of canvas construction. A common rookie mistake is to have insufficient give in the stitches. It results in corrugation of the canvas, as seen in Penfold's YWY jacket and in this Thai submission to a tailoring competition in Singapore which I attended:
It is safe to say that anyone who makes a corrugated canvas has truly no idea what he's doing. There will be almost no intelligence or know how embodied in the canvas. The kind of nuanced stuff not generally known by people on this forum and poorly documented in the literature.
Because of the time involved with hand padding, it is common in the cheaper suits to have the canvas machine sewn. If done by someone with some experience, it normally results in a wearable jacket, but you lose the ability of the various canvas layers to subtly slide relative to each other over time to assume a shape more suited to your body. If done by a rookie, it results in corrugation, just like with a hand padded canvas with insufficient give in the thread.Edited by hymo - 3/25/15 at 8:34am