or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 146

post #2176 of 3698

I've been going through this thread for a few weeks now in anticipation in my visit to Hong Kong, I'm looking for a reasonable suit that I will wear 4-10 times per year, I would love to spend 1000+USD on a nice two piece, but I think my budget allows for the 5-600 range, I'm looking for a simple charcoal two piece, a few ties and some shirts to go along with that.  I have made an appointment with Simpson Sin, but after reading this thread I am a bit hesitant to keep the appointment.  I am usually a 52L or 54R, I am 6'2 and certainly on the larger side, so purchasing off the rack in the US is a bit of an issue.  I'll be in HK for five days prior to going to the Maldives and will come back for two on my return.  I've built in time for multiple fittings.  I can be talked into upping the budget if needed, but just looking for some decent recommendations.

post #2177 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdonaldj2 View Post

I've been going through this thread for a few weeks now in anticipation in my visit to Hong Kong, I'm looking for a reasonable suit that I will wear 4-10 times per year, I would love to spend 1000+USD on a nice two piece, but I think my budget allows for the 5-600 range, I'm looking for a simple charcoal two piece, a few ties and some shirts to go along with that.  I have made an appointment with Simpson Sin, but after reading this thread I am a bit hesitant to keep the appointment.  I am usually a 52L or 54R, I am 6'2 and certainly on the larger side, so purchasing off the rack in the US is a bit of an issue.  I'll be in HK for five days prior to going to the Maldives and will come back for two on my return.  I've built in time for multiple fittings.  I can be talked into upping the budget if needed, but just looking for some decent recommendations.

Simpson Sin may fit your budget.
post #2178 of 3698

It will depend on what fabric you choose and if you're prepared to accept fused construction.  Even a cheaper worsted wool must retail for $50-70 USD per yard once you're buying at piece length quantity, and you're going to need 4.5 yards probably, so there's not much left to make the suit with and pay the rent.  

 

For a first suit, and one which won't be being worn all that often, then maybe it's worth going cheaper.  My first HK suit is less than 9 months old and I feel like burning it.  When my first child is born I'm going to change nappies while wearing it.

 

I had an email from Practical Tailor earlier announcing their tour (helpful when you live 400 yards away) and also some kind of pricing deal, to wit

 

To counter devalued foreign exchange rates, we are pleased to announce a special promotion for a selection of fabrics during our visits to your local markets. In particular we will be offering a selection of 110's wool at an entry price of HK$4,800 for a two pcs SUIT & a SHIRT.

 

I didn't much care for the sports jacket they made me, but some of that is my fault for not knowing what I wanted.  Somewhere waaaay upthread there was a poster who had a much better experience.... and they do at least tour the world so if you want to go again you can.  They are on the HK side so you won't have to cross the harbour if you're staying on that side.

post #2179 of 3698

for me that would feel like a waste of money if I wasn't happy with it, would it be worth it to spend around 1k, I understand you get what you pay for, so it might be worth the splurge.  I'm in that frame of mind spending wise for this trip.

post #2180 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

People on this forum like Kent Wang and Luxire quite a bit for MTM online, if you're not looking specifically to get stuff made in HK.

Thanks! I live in Hong Kong actually! so Hong Kong would be best =p

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post
 

If your boyfriend isn't a difficult shape to fit - not too big, not too small, regular size and shape and so on then maybe even made-to-measure isn't necessary.  There's quite a lot that can go wrong with measuring, fabric choice and manufacture and the newbie suit buyer generally makes several poor decisions too.

 

You could look at Ready-To-Wear garments from Suit Supply, Charles Tyrwhitt or elsewhere.  They're knocking out suits for $400USD, some of which don't look all that bad.  These guys and their manufacturers can bulk-buy cloth whereas a bespoke tailor will buy a short length of different cloth for each client (or sell you what he has in his shop).  With the money you save you can get all kind of minor alterations done, which your $800 USD Made to Measure suit will probably need doing anyway.

 

Of course if your boyfriend is a difficult fit then bespoke becomes worth it.  Around these parts people get very fussy about construction quality, fabric and fit - and there's a general sense that one perfect 14k HKD suit is a better buy than two 7k HKD suits that you hate wearing because they look and feel terrible to wear.  

 

These Richard James RTW suits available in the UK through John Lewis look relatively modern and, on clearance especially, cost less than it does to even get in the elevator and walk into WW Chan.

 

http://www.johnlewis.com/richard-james-mayfair/brand

 

 

He's kind of short 5,3 & skinny~ so i would say he would probably need MTM at least. Of course bespoke is best, but i suppose if you wear a suit daily yet not client facing, it seems kind of overboard to spend $14k... he's personally not that picky.

 

I should have mentioned I AM IN HK, i live here!

 

So my original questions:

-Best MTM in HK, i'm hoping for around 4-5k HKD.... I've read a lot of posts and doesn't seem like people talk about MTM much. people always say go big or go home! but my BF isn't client facing and just needs a good suit. but i still want to get the best available for him.

 

-Best value bespoke in HK (Baron Lee? any others better & cheaper/same price? That Sam one i saw earlier). I know there's William/Gordon or A Man or Ascot Chang etc, but I cannot afford it yet and i guess he doesn't see the hype into it yet either! this is for when i guess i can afford it. or i guess not worth the savings and just go big seems to be the general consensus here

 

FYI i will be taking him in for fitting.

post #2181 of 3698
It's impossible to say what's 'best value' as we value different things differently. Having said that Baron Lee does an okay job and is a middling price range that also includes Simpson Sin, Dream Bespoke and others that have generally good feedback. Most of these will produce decent classic cut suits, nothing too 'fashionable'.
post #2182 of 3698

Dear Styleforum,

 

I'm in Hong Kong until Saturday... I'm considering going on a hunt for shirting and thick MOP buttons (does someone know where) to get a bunch of shirts made CMT with a lesser known HK shirtmaker (I'm still undecided on who).  The alternative is I could just try Ascot Chang for two shirts.  With the euro the way it is... Ascot Chang is around the same price as the Italians.. if not a little/lot more expensive.  Should I just look around and not order anything and wait til I get back to Italy in June?  Should I cheat on the Italians?  I just have this intense need to order something custom.  Do any of you guys take drugs to stop these urges? #FWP

 

BSPKaddict

post #2183 of 3698

The guys @toomanytailors are doing God's work with their blog toomanytailors.com examining HK's shirtmakers one by one.  Maybe they'll review Ascot Chang, perhaps as a first anniversary spectacular in July.

 

Similar questions to yours were asked on this thread and I've written quite a lot in reply.  It isn't easy to find thick, high-quality MoP buttons for sale in HK but go up to Sham Shui Po and hunt around on Nam Cheong St.  When you compare the available thicknesses and quality of trocas shell and MoP buttons you may be swayed one way or another.

 

Getting shirts ready by Saturday should be possible at most places, but of course you won't have any spare time if the fit is off and you need alterations.  But if they get the measurements right why would you need any?

 

I don't know which drugs to take to stop the bespoke/custom made urge.  Once you start trying to source your own fabric and buttons then it's pretty much game over and time for rehab ;) 

post #2184 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdonaldj2 View Post
 

for me that would feel like a waste of money if I wasn't happy with it, would it be worth it to spend around 1k, I understand you get what you pay for, so it might be worth the splurge.  I'm in that frame of mind spending wise for this trip.

 

Going custom or bespoke is a tricky business.  It's a learning curve, an iterative process and a chunky financial commitment all rolled up in one.  A suit is probably going to cost more and be more complicated to construct and fit than anything else in your wardrobe and yet it will be worn less.  Overcoats and shoes can cost plenty too, but you'll get a lot of wear out of them.  Also this suit will probably have to do for weddings, funerals, interviews... maybe even internet cosplay  :stirpot:

 

Hong Kong tailoring means trying to get it cheaper and quicker, in a city which might once have been well-supplied with inexpensive skilled labour and low rents but is now amongst the most expensive places in the world.

 

Going bespoke also tends to entail buying short lengths of higher-grade fabric from merchants who in turn have to stock and market them.  All of this is building more and more costs into your suit. The cloth merchant takes his profit.  The store rents must be paid.  The cutters and tailors want their money.  So what ends up being skimped on are design (particularly pattern drafting) and construction quality.  Why spend hours more time and labour trying to get that final 10-20% towards perfection, as decreasing marginal returns set in and when your client is about to hop on a plane and fly off home?  He was happy in the shop, he paid the bill, so what if one shoulder slopes rather more than we allowed for or the sleeves are 3/8ths of a inch too long?  But because a suit is the garment that shows its flaws more obviously, and because you paid quite a lot of money for something you hoped would be perfect, there's room for a lot of disappointment.

 

I'm sure you can still get a decent suit in HK and with a quick turnaround, but it helps to have a very clear idea of what you want and to be able to communicate that again and again to the tailors.  Again though many people who are buying in HK have never had many comparable items of clothing before and either by following bad advice or plain poor taste end up making bad decisions. Jacket length and lapel width are important, as are shoulder construction and sleeve pitch. 

 

Even then when you get it home, you spend more time wearing it and you read more about tailored clothing you can come to suffer what I might call Styleforum Syndrome, where there's always a next level up, always a better cut, cleaner fit, finer balance.  Happy the man who buys a suit in HK, goes home and doesn't look at another Tumblr account ever again but instead enjoys his relatively well-made, relatively well-fitting suit instead.  

 

Two pieces of general advice:

 

1. Don't pay for premium fabrics.  Zegna, Loro Piana, Scabal all make lovely cloth but you don't need to go that far up.  Look at VBC or Dugdales instead for good quality, honest and plain worsted wool. If you'd like a lighter weight cloth look at Minnis Fresco or equivalent weaves from other merchants (Holland & Sherry Crispaire, Smiths Finmeresco). Navy blue make a good all-purpose suit, or charcoal grey.  Not black.  Don't buy on super numbers - higher super numbers might be finer cloth but they wear faster and cost a lot more.

 

2.  Are you thinking single-breasted two-button, two vent jacket? Make sure it is long enough to cover your butt/bottom.  With your hands down at your sides the hem of the coat should reach to around your knuckles but this depends on how long your arms and your torso are.  Another rule is that the jacket length should be half the distance from the collar to the floor.  Get the lapels wide enough to be in proportion - 3.5 to 3.75 inches should pretty close, 4 if you're feeling it.  And get them to describe at both measurement and baste fitting stage where the buttoning point will be - this will make a big difference to how the jacket fits and how it looks.

 

Simpson Sin and Lee Baron aren't all that far apart so you can pay a visit to both and see whose sales patter, advice and pricing you prefer.

post #2185 of 3698

Hi all,

 

I read a bit more and seem to have a better feel with the CTM/MTM

 

seems the following are best

 

Simpson Sin HKD$5-6k?

Dreams Bespoke HKD$6k?

Lee Baron HKD$8k

Brown's $??

 

Those are the following estimates i have noted, am i close. seeing there's inflation and all that. and i never found a post for Brown's cost.

 

Just looking for a black workhorse suit for work

post #2186 of 3698

Go for charcoal, I recommend something in Dugdale if they stock it. I believe Simpson Sin is a bit cheaper, closer to 4.5-5k range.

post #2187 of 3698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post

@hippotamus
 Sorry - maybe I wasn't clear.  I agree totally that there are plenty of good or better tailors in HK, and that sifting them from the general rubbish peddled by touts in TST is a very big step.

I've been living in HK since April - I've had one suit made at Y William Yu (7/10),  a linen jacket from Practical Tailors (7.5/10), two "linen" shirts made at Jantzen (7/10 for the one that was actually linen, 5/10 for the one that was made of cotton) and eight shirts at Graly (8.5/10).

The lesson I've learnt - that HK tailors will do what you tell them to do and not do what you don't tell them to do.  Saville Row cutters, the SR diaspora such as Tom Mahon or Steed and of course the galaxy of high-end Fiorentine and Neapolitan tailors will guide you along your journey, suggesting and recommending what they think will work for you.  

I think that three things work against advising a Hong Kong suit for a young man with a standard body type:

1.  Prices have risen steeply in Hong Kong, as input costs such as fabric, rent and labour have shot up and up

2. Online shopping has made it possible to order a RTW suit from a large company such as Suitsupply that can buy good cloth and manufacture in bulk, and pass those savings on to the customer.  These companies have generous return policies so if you don't like it - back it goes.  A young guy who doesn't have too much experience of smart clothes should take time to see what he likes, and facing a HK salesman means he's more likely to make a costly mistake.

3. Modern workers now seem to spend very little time wearing suit jackets, even going to and from work.  Perhaps if there's a client meeting coming up but in London and now in HK it's very much open neck shirts and suit trousers to and from work, perhaps with a warm overcoat in the winter.  It's the trousers that take a beating, having coffee spilt on them or falling over drunk on a night out. A well-fitting RTW suit jacket with two or three pairs of trousers to match will probably see our young hero through the next year or two and his money is better spent on that than going to a mid-range HK tailor for one jacket and one pair of trousers for the same money.

I'm going to print this and distribute it to my friends, more importantly I gotta post this in my room so I stop buying suits. Like you I bought way too many shitty suits. The better solution is for me to lose some damn weight and just buy OTR
post #2188 of 3698

Hmmm.  My fondness for giving advice is **ENORMOUSLY** greater than my ability to heed my own words.  Bought another suit since then from Gordon Yao, have a non-suit project underway at WW Chan and now considering cloth samples for at least one sports coat.  Oh, and maybe just one more suit.  It's a sickness, right?

 

I'm going to re-grade the first YWY suit as a 3/10, the linen jacket as a 2/10 and the Jantzen shirts as 3/10.  I'm on record elsewhere with my views on Graly but I really am starting to sound like a shill so I'll shut up.  

post #2189 of 3698

Just got email from Simpson Sin

 

Quote:

The prices are at HK$4,800.-up/suits with half canvassed.

Should there be any queries, let us know again.

post #2190 of 3698

Hey guys, I live in HK and I'm looking to buy a slim fit suit tailored.

 

From what I know most tailors in HK are more old school.

Anyone have any good experience with a tailor making modern looking slim fit suits?

 

Thanks.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread