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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 140

post #2086 of 3697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime View Post

Dual Commission @ Y William Yu: 1 Non CMT (Grey) & one CMT (Blue)



Looks good. Make sure Andy and Marco at YWY don't encourage you to go for a jacket that's too short.
post #2087 of 3697
Thanks Penfold! Will ensure the jacket covers my bum!
post #2088 of 3697
Anyone have a recommendation for a place that can do leather alterations? Need sleeves with zippers shortened for my leather jacket
post #2089 of 3697

Hi All,

 

First time poster here. Please be gentle :embar:

 

I'm looking at going to Hong Kong for two weeks in Mid Feb over the Chinese New Year period for 2 weeks

 

I would like to get my very first (or maybe even second) bespoke suit with a tailor in Hong Kong.

 

The first suit I would like to get is similar to this picture. A more stylish kind of fitted grey suit. This is intended to be a regularly worn suit for work or at weddings.

 

 

 

The second suit would be a more classic black suit. It would be intended to be a more 'honest' suit that can also be worn for work at weddings.

 

Also, I would like to get some white shirts to go with that for ties.

 

Based on what I've read to date, and advice from friends, at the moment I'm thinking:

 

TCNY - for the first "stylish" grey suit as they seem to do more modern cuts better?

 

Baron/Peter Lee - for the second "honest" black suit as they apparantly is not as good with a more fitted cut, but better with a more relaxed style.

 

 

What do you SFers think of the above? Does anyone have experience with those tailors for the type of suits I'm after? Anybody have a rough idea on what kind of starting prices I'd be looking at? I've been told I should go with Super 100s wool.

 

Oh and in terms of budget, I'm thinking around $5-7K for the suit jacket and 2x pants, and maybe can stretch to $8K tops if anyone has very compelling recommendations.

 

Thank you all in advanced :)

 

Cheers.

post #2090 of 3697
Bad time to get a suit.
post #2091 of 3697
Guess most of the tailors taking off in CNY period

Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

Bad time to get a suit.
post #2092 of 3697

I don't know if it's just time off, but also because lots of customers wants stuff made now. Also black suits aren't necessarily the most recommended. Charcoal is often seen as more versatile. I did get a black suit for my first suit and while I like black suits, I do somewhat regret that.

post #2093 of 3697
No one really wear black suit nowadays.

I have one but only wear it to funeral or ceremony.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I don't know if it's just time off, but also because lots of customers wants stuff made now. Also black suits aren't necessarily the most recommended. Charcoal is often seen as more versatile. I did get a black suit for my first suit and while I like black suits, I do somewhat regret that.
post #2094 of 3697
Get the grey one and make it charcoal grey (as in darker) and get the black one, but make it navy blue (as in not black).
post #2095 of 3697
Not a HK tailor, but a visiting one......

Gennaro Paone will be back in Hong Kong for a trunk show from February 5-7, 2015. For more information, please feel free to contact me. Some links that are of interest:

http://paone-sartorianapoletana.tumblr.com
http://instagram.com/kolecho15/

* posted with Fok's permission

TS2flyersquare_zpsca41c188.png
post #2096 of 3697

Hi everyone,

 

I've had suits made at William Cheng in the past but want to re-evaluate whether I should give them my next order or try elsewhere.

 

If I use Cheng again, I will be after a good super 140 thread count product - will be probably $6k at Cheng. But I want to research what I would need to spend to use similar quality fabric for a well cut, hand stitched (i.e. non fused/canvassed) suit.

 

Is Gordon Yao still up there with WW Chan re quality but a bit cheaper? What is his pricing and service like?

 

Also, I have walked past Il Sarto at Gilman's Bazaar a few times at night. The shop front looks interesting. Can anyone share insight into their pricing and quality/service?

 

Pagoda shoulders

 

I'm curious about having a suit made with these. Looking at a list of different shoulder styles (http://www.gilt.com/giltmanual/2014/03/anatomy-of-a-suit-shoulder-construction/), can anyone point me in the right direction for which types of shoulder design suit which body types? In particular, what is acceptable and inappropriate for men on the more slender/short side?

 

Shirts

 

Are Ascot Chang still regarded as the best - and is it still minimum order 3 shirts at US$100 each?

 

Shoes

I've heard about Kow Hoo in Prince's Building doing lovely handcrafted tailored shoes to order with 3 month waiting time at about US$1,200 a pair (I assume about $9,000 HKD?) How does their product compare to what I might find at Tassels or the Armoury?

post #2097 of 3697

@Isochronous

 

I'm gradually compiling answers to your questions, since I'm having pieces made right now by both Chan and Yao.  If you don't mind I'll hold off commenting on those two until the work is done.

 

*****************************************************************

I've never used Ascot Chang but the common consensus is that they are the best by far - but at a price.  They have four shops in some of HK's prime retail floorspace, plenty of staff and thus high overheads to pass on.  I asked yesterday in the Prince's Building store and was told that the minimum bespoke order was 3 shirts (other posters suggest bending this rule is possible) and prices were about 1750 HKD ($220 USD)  for the most basic cloth and 2195 HKD ($280 USD) for Thomas Mason.  Ascot Chang probably use the finest quality of Thomas Mason shirting and may well have some exclusive patterns.  For reference I have bought cut lengths of humbler Thomas Mason cotton and linen shirting from the (legit) wholesaler for between 130 and 190 HKD per yard.

 

Ascot Chang probably use the finest, thickest mother of pearl buttons around.  Again though I've bought a gross (144) of 18 ligne m.o.p. buttons up in Sham Sui Po for 172HKD which, whilst not as thick or lustrous as the AC ones, are to my eyes the equivalent of the ones Acorn Fabrics sell online for 0.48 GBP PER BUTTON excluding VAT.  So the SSP are about 1/5th of the price of Acorn.  Trocas shell, which isn't nearly as pearlescent as the real deal but is easier to get at 3mm thickness, is even cheaper. 

 

I couldn't justify paying 2195HKD for one single shirt that is only a drop of ink or cherry juice away from being upcycled into lining for suit trousers.  I have a shirtmaker in Wan Chai whose work I find satisfactory and whose prices are somewhat keener. However speed isn't a concern (it's usually 2 weeks from order to delivery) and I often trim loose threads from the machine-made buttonholes. I'd rather have a larger number of adequate shirts in many different styles and patterns than a small handful of faultless ones but YMMV.

 

******************************************************************

 

Hong Kong's libraries hold several copies of Alan Flusser's books which might best answer those questions about the best style for your build.

 

https://webcat.hkpl.gov.hk/search/query?term_1=flusser,+alan&theme=WEB

 

My feeling is that unless you pay top dollar to Chan or similar you're likely to end up with a poor imitation of pagoda shoulders and a suit you won't want to wear.


Edited by Penfold - 1/17/15 at 3:51am
post #2098 of 3697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post
 

@Isochronous

 

I'm gradually compiling answers to your questions, since I'm having pieces made right now by both Chan and Yao.  If you don't mind I'll hold off commenting on those two until the work is done.

 

*****************************************************************

I've never used Ascot Chang but the common consensus is that they are the best by far - but at a price.  They have four shops in some of HK's prime retail floorspace, plenty of staff and thus high overheads to pass on.  I asked yesterday in the Prince's Building store and was told that the minimum bespoke order was 3 shirts (other posters suggest bending this rule is possible) and prices were about 1750 HKD ($220 USD)  for the most basic cloth and 2195 HKD ($280 USD) for Thomas Mason.  Ascot Chang probably use the finest quality of Thomas Mason shirting and may well have some exclusive patterns.  For reference I have bought cut lengths of humbler Thomas Mason cotton and linen shirting from the (legit) wholesaler for between 130 and 190 HKD per yard.

 

Ascot Chang probably use the finest, thickest mother of pearl buttons around.  Again though I've bought a gross (144) of 18 ligne m.o.p. buttons up in Sham Sui Po for 172HKD which, whilst not as thick or lustrous as the AC ones, are to my eyes the equivalent of the ones Acorn Fabrics sell online for 0.48 GBP PER BUTTON excluding VAT.  So the SSP are about 1/5th of the price of Acorn.  Trocas shell, which isn't nearly as pearlescent as the real deal but is easier to get at 3mm thickness, is even cheaper. 

 

I couldn't justify paying 2195HKD for one single shirt that is only a drop of ink or cherry juice away from being upcycled into lining for suit trousers.  I have a shirtmaker in Wan Chai whose work I find satisfactory and whose prices are somewhat keener. However speed isn't a concern (it's usually 2 weeks from order to delivery) and I often trim loose threads from the machine-made buttonholes. I'd rather have a larger number of adequate shirts in many different styles and patterns than a small handful of faultless ones but YMMV.

 

******************************************************************

 

Hong Kong's libraries hold several copies of Alan Flusser's books which might best answer those questions about the best style for your build.

 

https://webcat.hkpl.gov.hk/search/query?term_1=flusser,+alan&theme=WEB

 

My feeling is that unless you pay top dollar to Chan or similar you're likely to end up with a poor imitation of pagoda shoulders and a suit you won't want to wear.

 

I heard that the legit Thomas Mason wholesaler has been taken over. Is it still possible to buy cut lengths?

post #2099 of 3697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nayr- View Post
 

 

I heard that the legit Thomas Mason wholesaler has been taken over. Is it still possible to buy cut lengths?

 

I last bought a length of (linen) shirting there in early November 2014, as a walk-up cash customer.  It could be that there's been a change of policy since. I think my shirtmaker takes a little mark-up himself but for $40-50 HKD more a time it seems fair.  

post #2100 of 3697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post

@Isochronous

*****************************************************************
I've never used Ascot Chang but the common consensus is that they are the best by far - but at a price.  They have four shops in some of HK's prime retail floorspace, plenty of staff and thus high overheads to pass on.  I asked yesterday in the Prince's Building store and was told that the minimum bespoke order was 3 shirts (other posters suggest bending this rule is possible) and prices were about 1750 HKD ($220 USD)  for the most basic cloth and 2195 HKD ($280 USD) for Thomas Mason.  Ascot Chang probably use the finest quality of Thomas Mason shirting and may well have some exclusive patterns.  For reference I have bought cut lengths of humbler Thomas Mason cotton and linen shirting from the (legit) wholesaler for between 130 and 190 HKD per yard.

I don't know who provided you those prices but unless I was charged incorrectly, they are wrong. I had 3 shirts done last week for a total of $3485 HKD. They were in-house fabrics.
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