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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 126

post #1876 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

Thanks! Glad to hear that. Well, they proved to be reliable and have a very decent pricing. Just in case, if you're sending them a fused jacket and expect a fully canvassed one, do mention it very precisely.

That's exactly the case. Will be explicit with details. Thanks man
post #1877 of 3690

Just got back from fittings. Would like comments please as the cut here will be the basis for future suits and jackets.

 

First my Dream Bespoke, Gray Glen Plaid 3 piece. Next fitting should be final-ish so would like any problems addressed if you see any.

 

Dream Bespoke Glen Plaid 3 piece (Click to show)

Changes: calves let out, elbow area let out slightly, not sure if to add more roping, said no, gorge going to be lowered slightly. Also they said they'd tried to address the drop on the right side but if they overdo it the checks won't match well so they did a compromise and this is why there is still some fabric loose.

 

 

 

 

 

Dream Burgundy Double Breasted Jacket, first fitting

Dream Burgundy DB Jacket (Click to show)

Changes: Asked to have lapel widened (see the left side/stage right), button stance widened also and slightly lowered to where the chalk marks are to allow more gorge. They will let out the fabric so there's more overlap fabric, and again to allow for wide button stance. Will ask for more roping for this one (than the previous jacket).

 

 

 

 

Dream Fox Tweed SC for my partner

 

Dream Fox Tweed SC (for my partner) (Click to show)

Changes: not sure about button stance, think they have long legs so even though in these pictures it looks like a low gorge it might look better this way, will take better picture next time. They are also worried that the sleeve width, while looks good on their own, might make their hands/wrist look way too small, but we said for now we'll keep it as it is, thoughts? To not they don't want it to look like a woman's jacket (which unfortunately is exactly what happened with the other tailor),  so for purposes of comments treat this as a men's jacket please.

 

 

 

 

Moda Republic Olive Moleskin Suit (mine)

 

Moda Olive Moleskin (Click to show)

Changes: They haven't sorted the cuffs yet, I do think moleskin is probably a more difficult material to work with, but I am less happy with the fit. I did ask for quite a slim waist but this needs to be let out, so we'll see for next fitting. Trousers will also be shortened (as pinned on left leg). I really like the fabric though, really comfy and warm (too warm here, but you know). They will be fixing the shoulder as well.

 

 

 

 

Moda Olive Moleskin

Moda Olive Moleskin (Click to show)

Changes: Asked them to lengthen the jacket as much as possible. I did specify to have them use a men's tailor/styling but I guess there's some communication problems because I overheard/heard the tailor mention when I asked for some changes that it "won't be like a women's suit anymore" even though we said from the start we don't want a feminine styling, because let's be honest when people mean women's styling they basically mean destroy-all-the-clean-lines-and strong-silhouette-to-make-hips-butt-and-boobs-bigger. Anyway they don't have much fabric for that so it's a bit worrying, but they will make jacket longer where possible and let waist out slightly so the skirt doesn't flare out. Right now I think it doesn't look great because the hips clearly look wider than the shoulders. I know SF likes open quarters but I think in my partner's case it need not be so extreme.

 

Also I asked for the trousers the thigh needs to bet let out more because it's hugging the flesh as opposed to having a clean line down, which I guess is hard with the material anyway, but it again accentuates the hips too much. The pocket seems to flare out even when standing straight, I have no idea how to fix that. Please advise? Sorry about the photos, it doesn't show what I mean too well.

 

Overall not too happy with the fit/styling as I did specify a few times about not having it too feminine, but the shoulders look okay, and I think that's the important part as the rest can mostly be changed. I wonder if the button stance can be moved up to make the jacket less short for the next jacket. I guess it's too late for the button stance, but I can change it for future jackets. Do you think perhaps a 3 or 3r2.5 jacket would be better for them maybe? Seems like the gorge is a bit too low, but I wanted it to make the torso/chest look bigger as their legs are quite long. Perhaps no change is necessary if the jacket is made longer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry for the long post, thanks for looking.

post #1878 of 3690

Guys,

 

Heading to HK in about a few weeks. 

 

I had previous experience with Simpson Sin during my last visit. Suits were about 600USD for half canvassed construction. I had three meetings with them: one for measurements/fabric selection, one for basted fitting and one for pickup.  

 

After debating for a bit, now I'm looking to try out other tailors. What are your top 3 recommended tailors for a jacket? How many visits would I need? I will be in HK for 4 days initially and won't return to HK again for another 7 days or so, but am staying 3 days in HK during my last leg before depature to the US. 

 

My budget is around $500 to $800 USD. What are some of the forum favorites here? 

 

Thanks. 

post #1879 of 3690
Lee Baron
Brown's Tailor
Dream Bespoke

I think those three names make full canvass suit and worth to try (within your budget I believe)
post #1880 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post
 

For what it's worth, I've commissioned quite a few things with NK Fashion (New Kingston), only CMT and to replicate existing garments.

 

It's not as refined as WW Chan but well, it's approximately 4000-4500 HKD for the CMT of a suit, fully canvassed and quite good looking (save the lapel buttonhole that you'd better have done somewhere else).

 

I'm pretty happy with the results and continue to commission on a regular basis with them.

 

http://www.newkingstonfashion.com/

 

Lee Kar Bldg, 4A Carnarvon Rd, Hong Kong

 

info@newkingstonfashion.com

 

@SeamasterLux congratulations on some very good looks and fits obtained from your non-first tier HK tailor (New Kingston Fashion).  I'm taking a similar "good value" approach too with my HK tailor (Ash Samtani) over in TST, albeit not CMT.  Hopefully, I will achieve some good fits and good looking garments like your have.

 

If you don't mind disclosing, what is your height?  And, what are the sizes of your (ahem) trouser openings and turn-ups/cuffs?  Thank you.

post #1881 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomanytailors View Post

Hey guys, first time posting here. My friend and I have been visiting some tailors in Hong Kong to get some shirts made. We will be posting some photos and comments on our blog. Hopefully, we will be rolling out more posts and you guys will find it useful.

We've updated with our first post on Jantzen come check it out and leave some comments!

http://toomanytailors.wordpress.com

TMT

 

@toomanytailors welcome to the thread and best wishes to your project.  It's a great initiative and I look forward to following your progress with keen interest.  

 

I suggest you add Ash Samtani in TST to your list of prospective shirt makers and tailors.  While their range of shirt fabrics is not particularly extensive (e.g. they had very limited offerings of bengal stripe fabrics at the time of my last visit back in March/April), their shirts are superior (IMHO) to the two firms you've reviewed to date.  I'm not sure whether Ash Samtani make their shirts in-house or outsource their manufacturer, as many HK tailors commonly do. 

 

Full Disclosure:  I have been a loyal client of Ash Samtani for nearly 30-years.  Having said that, I have not informed them that I am blogging about my experiences with them here, I derive no benefit for plugging them and my client experience with the firm has not been "all plain sailing" lately.


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 9/7/14 at 2:49pm
post #1882 of 3690
I recently had tried a new tailor because it was recommended by my friend. According to him, the tailor offers contemporary cutting and minimalist constructions.

I have received the garments yesterday, and I must say they provide excellent value compared to my usual HK tailor. Workmanship and pattern are on-par with current top-end bespoke tailor shop.

I guess I have to make some more with them.

The particular point that amuses me is that they can accommodate a canvassed waistcoat. Also how they managed to make a 240g English cloth presentable with canvassed constructions (without any inter-fusing).

Again,I shall post of fit pic later. But for the time being, enjoy.

IMG-20140904-WA0010 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0017 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0012 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0011 by CHA-K, on Flickr
post #1883 of 3690
Very sharp. Is the front of the SB peak jacket actually pointing down or is that an optical illusion? I like the big lapels, plus that roll...
post #1884 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

Very sharp. Is the front of the SB peak jacket actually pointing down or is that an optical illusion? I like the big lapels, plus that roll...

I think thats just optical illusion. The peak is attached very tight from the grorge.

That a 240g Scabal cloth, muat be a pain to tailor.
post #1885 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post
 

 

@SeamasterLux congratulations on some very good looks and fits obtained from your non-first tier HK tailor (New Kingston Fashion).  I'm taking a similar "good value" approach too with my HK tailor (Ash Samtani) over in TST, albeit not CMT.  Hopefully, I will achieve some good fits and good looking garments like your have.

 

If you don't mind disclosing, what is your height?  And, what are the sizes of your (ahem) trouser openings and turn-ups/cuffs?  Thank you.

 

Thanks a lot. I'm very glad regarding the price/value ratio achieved with New Kingston.

 

I'm 175cm tall. Hem varies between 18 and 19cm and turn-up cuffs are 4.5 to 5cm high. Why are you asking?

post #1886 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I think thats just optical illusion. The peak is attached very tight from the grorge.

That a 240g Scabal cloth, muat be a pain to tailor.

It will be interesting to see how these fit y7ou - you have not posted a full set since your Graham Brown suit in London - could you do this please? I assume that the flapped watch pocket is their standard in place of the concealed one in the waist band? Do y7ou have back pockets these days or have you stuck with the clean fish tail back?
post #1887 of 3690

@add911_11 Congratulations on some fine looking garments.  I agree with earlier comment that your dinner jacket style SB jacket with peak label looks very sleek.  I hope you will post pictures on yourself wearing your new garments soon.  So, we can see how the garments ultimately look on you.  Thanks for sharing.

post #1888 of 3690

@Isolation regarding your recent posting of several new commissions presently at the basted fitting stage.  I admire your passion for bespoke tailoring and your prodigious related efforts, which are commendable.  

 

I did comment in detail on one of your earlier fits, so I will refrain from doing so again.  Except to say: that the central issue to your achieving the desired good fits appears to be your pronounced drop right shoulder problem, which I too suffer from by the way.  

 

In my case, its an old injury that occurred during my younger self's military service years.  I have even considered having surgery to correct my shoulder drop, which arose from the old injury never being properly treated and the broken bones consequently resetting incorrectly.

 

If you don't mind me asking: is your drop shoulder the result of an injury or is it congential (from birth)?  Perhaps, corrective surgery (if possible) is an available option you may wish to consider.  I don't say this to be mean spirited or to hurt your feelings, which is not my intention.   I'm just thinking out of the box and proposing an unconventional approach to improving your fits, by actually addressing the root cause of your reoccurring fit issues.  

 

Again, your passion for bespoke is obvious and your efforts are commendable.  Best wishes.       

post #1889 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post
 

 

Thanks a lot. I'm very glad regarding the price/value ratio achieved with New Kingston.

 

I'm 175cm tall. Hem varies between 18 and 19cm and turn-up cuffs are 4.5 to 5cm high. Why are you asking?

 

@SeamasterLux   Recently, I rejected some new commission trousers from my HK tailor (Ash Samtani) owing to poor fits, which they are kindly remaking free of charge.  Consequently, I'm taking the opportunity to double check and/or refine my trouser specification requirements before the replacement trousers are made.  So, I'm interested to learn what other well dressed men -- with good fits -- are wearing and the related technical measurements.  

post #1890 of 3690
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I recently had tried a new tailor because it was recommended by my friend. According to him, the tailor offers contemporary cutting and minimalist constructions.

I have received the garments yesterday, and I must say they provide excellent value compared to my usual HK tailor. Workmanship and pattern are on-par with current top-end bespoke tailor shop.

I guess I have to make some more with them.

The particular point that amuses me is that they can accommodate a canvassed waistcoat. Also how they managed to make a 240g English cloth presentable with canvassed constructions (without any inter-fusing).

Again,I shall post of fit pic later. But for the time being, enjoy.

IMG-20140904-WA0010 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0017 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0012 by CHA-K, on FlickrIMG-20140904-WA0011 by CHA-K, on Flickr

 

Beautiful stuff, mind sharing the Tailor and price point ? 

If its inconvenience to do it here feel free to PM me

 

Oh and happy moon cake festival everyone !

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