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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 121

post #1801 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtammanyhall View Post

Hey everybody, first-time poster here. Checked in with T Adair & Sons regarding Thomas Mason by the yard; they indeed do sell it by the yard, so I'll be getting a CMT done this summer. Will be paying them a visit over the weekend (they were closing as I visited, so didn't get a chance to see all of their cloths). 

Anybody have any recommendations regarding where to get a CMT done in Hong Kong? I think Ascot Chang does have CMT available for HKD750, but I'm unsure if they do CMT for a new customer. Also was considering Dream Bespoke, but was unsure of their quality (HKD300 for a CMT, I think). 

Probably will go with a basic Silverline white and light blue, considering I don't have any bespoke shirts at all. 

A/C is $850, I know because I also wanted to buy from Adair and get CMT done LOL.

Do you know how much per yard they're selling?
post #1802 of 1814

Thomas Mason and Albini about HKD145-HKD200 per yard. Linen on the higher end of pricing.

post #1803 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorseandco View Post


Check out Practical Tailors in AIE building on Connaught Road in Central. They have the Smith's along with the Minnis Fresco book. I've recently had a navy fresco suit made up and something from the Smith's book is next on my radar.

 

Any ballpark figures on pricing please?

 

For the record I've also got a Y William Yu suit in progress, inspired by a photo of a B& Tailor suit I saw on here (it might belong to Tchoy, I'm not sure). I'm trying to lose weight but living in HK surrounded by all these tailors and shirtmakers became too much for me.  I sniffed around TST, getting quotes from Simpson Sin ($8700 half-canvassed, $9000 fully canvassed, which they didn't seem keen on doing, for a VBC cloth from the Solids II book), Lee Baron ($4800 basic (fused? not clear on that point), $2000 more to do canvassed and $1800 for a spare pair of trousers), Gordon Yao ($13500 for VBC but I really wanted a Scabal Red Label cloth that would have pushed the suit up to $17500 and Y William Yu where I pulled the trigger on a LP fabric (forgotten the details and now rather regret it) for $9500 fully canvassed, three fittings and as many free bottles of water as I can drink per visit (i.e. one). 

 

Since I live in HK at the moment I agreed they could take their time with this suit, and in return Andy (cutter/salesman/front of house) made encouraging noises about finding an old-time Shanghai craftsman.  At the skeleton baste fitting the trouser man was in attendance to assist whilst Andy took more time on the coat in terms of length, balance and so on.  At the second fitting the trouser were close to finished, but this time the coat tailor (an impressively old Chinese guy) was there to mark up and see what needed to be corrected.  Third fitting is in about ten days or so.

 

So far so good, but I'm not sure YWY have the greatest number of fabric books from the more prominent mills to choose from - and I can see from my first attempt that I should pay greater heed to SF's accumulated wisdom on such matters.  But I can also see that the usual caveats apply here just as they should - you get what you pay for, HK tailors will do what you tell them to do and won't do what you don't ask for, and that the first suit is always necessarily something of a warm-up.  However as another step along the learning curve I'm pretty pleased. 

 

Photos below - blue tie is skeleton baste, pink tie is forward and I've included the lovely B& Tailor suit that inspired me too.  Whoever's suit it is, and whoever took the photo, please forgive me for stealing it and if you want it removed then just PM me. 

 


Achtung! More photos (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #1804 of 1814
I think the YWY suits look promising though i would probably ask for the jacket to be lengthened as it looks a little short for my taste. Most HK tailors tend to default towards a shorter jacket unless you instruct them otherwise and their definition of a jacket "covering" the seat is somewhat loose.

My Minnis suit at Practical Tailors ("PT") was HKD9,700 for fully-canvassed, half-lined (forget the name of the fancy lining but I believe it was 100% silk rather than a silk / polyester blend which many other tailors carry) with a Milanese buttonhole. I've used a number of tailors in HK including Lee Baron, William Cheng & Son, Il Sarto and New Century and I'm very much pleased with the results at PT thus far.

The proprietors, Andy and Jason are ex-Taipan Row ("TR") from a number of years back (when I believe the TR name still stood for something) and as they tell me they combine the cut and fit of a Cantonese tailor with the workmanship and finishing of a Shanghainese tailor. PT also differ from alot of other tailors in HK in that they have their own "kitchen" and so have better control over quality and timeliness in terms of delivering product.

My Minnis is currently in their kitchen getting some final alterations (letting the jacket out slightly at the waist) so I'll post pics when I get around to collecting it.
post #1805 of 1814

You're absolutely right about the coat length - you can see the chalk mark on the skeleton baste near the hem to lengthen by about 7/8ths of an inch.  I think they did lengthen it but perhaps it could have used more. I have a longer (yet fatter0 body in relation to my legs than many people.

 

That's interesting about Practical Tailors - I'll see how YWY's effort turns out and will pay more attention to their cloth books.  I think I might end up with Chan because my real needs are a new dinner jacket, a couple of double-breasted waistcoats and new high-rise 'spongebag' trousers for morning dress and some more relaxed odd jackets and whatnot. Even though they'll probably cost a lot I get the feeling that Chan are the people best equipped to deal with these slightly unusual pieces. 

post #1806 of 1814
Personally for odd jackets and pieces that get less wear, I tend to prefer more cost-effective tailors simply because I know I'll wear those pieces relatively less often than a workhorse navy or charcoal business suit. All of my odd jackets are by Lee Baron, cut and fitted by the inimitable Lai Sifu. I'm very pleased with the fit and cut and the only area that really disappointed me was the finishing particularly on the buttonholes.
post #1807 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRob View Post
 

 

Dafuq, they had a young woman take your measurements?  I would have demanded an old Chinese man.  It's part of the experience.

 

Also -- after having read your post (it's well-written), I'm wondering why you didn't comment on/post pics re: the quality of the shirt you had made.  Did it fit well?

 

We are still working on the shirt review and will be putting it on our blog soon!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by addedfuel View Post
 

 

Your review is great. Given that there are only 2 of you, how many tailors do you or have you covered? I'd be glad to chip in.

 

Thank you for your offer. We are still in good shape now, but would be happy to let you know if we need any help! So far we have gotten shirts made at three tailors. If you have any tailors you want us to take a look at, feel free to let us know!

 

TMT

post #1808 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomanytailors View Post

Hey guys, first time posting here. My friend and I have been visiting some tailors in Hong Kong to get some shirts made. We will be posting some photos and comments on our blog. Hopefully, we will be rolling out more posts and you guys will find it useful.

We've updated with our first post on Jantzen come check it out and leave some comments!

http://toomanytailors.wordpress.com

TMT

 

Thanks for the information, now I know not to go there since I absolutely hate people with their attitude.

post #1809 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorseandco View Post
 I've used a number of tailors in HK including Lee Baron, William Cheng & Son, Il Sarto and New Century and I'm very much pleased with the results at PT thus far.

The proprietors, Andy and Jason are ex-Taipan Row ("TR") from a number of years back (when I believe the TR name still stood for something) and as they tell me they combine the cut and fit of a Cantonese tailor with the workmanship and finishing of a Shanghainese tailor. PT also differ from alot of other tailors in HK in that they have their own "kitchen" and so have better control over quality and timeliness in terms of delivering product.

My Minnis is currently in their kitchen getting some final alterations (letting the jacket out slightly at the waist) so I'll post pics when I get around to collecting it.

 

Great tip, @darkhorseandco.  I killed some time this afternoon flicking through a few books at Merino Brothers in TST (I think I've found the cashmere stripe trousers I'm going to get married in) then wandered into Practical Tailors on the other side for a look-see... which quite quickly became a H & S dark tan  linen shirt-jacket commission (162005 from the Key West book). Not cheap but hopefully good value. They talk a big game but it's clear they're doing a lot of business whilst appearing, at least, to maintain high standards. 

post #1810 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorseandco View Post


Check out Practical Tailors in AIE building on Connaught Road in Central. They have the Smith's along with the Minnis Fresco book. I've recently had a navy fresco suit made up and something from the Smith's book is next on my radar.


Practical Tailor is carrying Smith Travel Suitings Bunch(which includes Finmeresco, Gilt edge, Abacus and High Twist Lightweight) only at this moment. We are still waiting for new Smith Bunches and will surely distribute them once we have received them.  

post #1811 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merino Bros View Post


Practical Tailor is carrying Smith Travel Suitings Bunch(which includes Finmeresco, Gilt edge, Abacus and High Twist Lightweight) only at this moment. We are still waiting for new Smith Bunches and will surely distribute them once we have received them.  

Do you have an eta of when you may receive the Steadfast book?
post #1812 of 1814
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penfold View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorseandco View Post
 I've used a number of tailors in HK including Lee Baron, William Cheng & Son, Il Sarto and New Century and I'm very much pleased with the results at PT thus far.

The proprietors, Andy and Jason are ex-Taipan Row ("TR") from a number of years back (when I believe the TR name still stood for something) and as they tell me they combine the cut and fit of a Cantonese tailor with the workmanship and finishing of a Shanghainese tailor. PT also differ from alot of other tailors in HK in that they have their own "kitchen" and so have better control over quality and timeliness in terms of delivering product.

My Minnis is currently in their kitchen getting some final alterations (letting the jacket out slightly at the waist) so I'll post pics when I get around to collecting it.
 

 

Great tip, @darkhorseandco.  I killed some time this afternoon flicking through a few books at Merino Brothers in TST (I think I've found the cashmere stripe trousers I'm going to get married in) then wandered into Practical Tailors on the other side for a look-see... which quite quickly became a H & S dark tan  linen shirt-jacket commission (162005 from the Key West book). Not cheap but hopefully good value. They talk a big game but it's clear they're doing a lot of business whilst appearing, at least, to maintain high standards. 

 

Do you mean no-padding construction?  I am interested in if they can do it well.  You saw an actual example they did?

post #1813 of 1814


We have just received on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dib View Post


Do you have an eta of when you may receive the Steadfast book?


We have just received a Steadfast bunch, which is said to be the last one :butbut:.

 

We will keep this book at our shop and you can come to take a look. :fonz:

post #1814 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbro View Post
 

 

Sorry been pre-occupied with a few personal matters and work since returning from Hong Kong.

 

I'll post a review and my thoughts once I get a chance in the next week or so - I received my two trial shirts a few days ago from Moda Republic. The shirts weren't perfect, but it is fairly safe to say I'll be looking to move my shirting from Lee Baron to Moda - though in small orders until the fit is perfected.

 

At a high level without writing out a full review/posting photos:

 

Fit/Cut: Peter currently has a better cut/pattern for my shirts than Moda - but we are comparing apples with oranges given the number of times and corrections I've had with Peter

Price: Pretty even, Eddy and Chris at Moda have quoted me different prices (which I need to clarify) though it is on par or a bit more expensive than Peter

Buttons: Moda have nicer looking MOP to me and more choices, but their smallest buttons are as small as I like for my button downs

Service: Moda hands down trumps Peter for me (though a cynic would argue Moda is still building their brand rep). Basically, I'm likely to receive useful advice from Moda and the staff are readily able to understand my specific requirements. In contrast, Peter is likely to always tell me the the item is fine even if there are apparently issues - although he always fixes them, he needs to be firmly managed from a QC perspective.

Fabric: Moda has a larger array of choices at a basic/house level - Peter has plenty of swatches, but prices can be quite variable.

 

Anyway, I'll try and write a more thorough and structured review when the time permits.

Thanks for the review billbro, hope to see you in the store in future! 

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