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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 119

post #1771 of 1814
For those interested - Here is a cross-posting on my latest Chan acquisition and the excellent experience with them:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/127218/show-us-your-chan/645#post_7207725
post #1772 of 1814
I'm in Hong Kong now and am super satisfied with the fabric variety available which is absent in Singapore. Any recommendations for suit linings, preferably fun ones. I visited merino bro but their linings are out of my budget.
post #1773 of 1814

.... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

 

The focus of this post is on shirts.   Specially, this is a cautionary tale about high quality "Sea Island cotton" fabric (ahem) "shrinkage" and the undesirable flow-on effects and negative impact to my requirement for the usual 1/4 to 1/2 half inch of shirt cuff exposure at the wrist when wearing a jacket.

 

The first picture below shows the "master pattern shirt" (a white button down sports shirt made from Sea Island cotton) taken during my recent sartorial visit to HK back in April.  Note: the specified 1/4 to 1/2 inch of visible shirt cuff on display.  Now fast forward to June (three months and 3-4 normal washes and irons of the master pattern shirt since HK).  Now, note the absence of visible shirt cuff on display.  Both pictures of the shirt where taken wearing exactly the same black blazer.

 

Now, recall that I've not just got one new shirt made from Sea Island cotton but dozens of them, as my earlier pictures attest.  Luke (the managing director and cutter) at Ash Samtani assures me that the Sea Island cotton fabrics used to make the majority of my shirts where all pre-washed to avoid fabric shrinkage.  Alas, not so well in my case it now appears.  

 

In any event, the problem has affected the master pattern shirt and, therefore, can "logically" be expected to affect the remaining new shirts (copies) made from the same fabric too.

 

My proposed resolution to this problem is: (1) for me to quickly wash (several times) and then iron all the remaining new shirts made from the above fabric in an effort to hasten the (ahem) "shrinkage effect", and (2) if so, then return the shirts to Ash Samtani in HK for adjustment (i.e. replace all sleeves from matching fabric that has first been pre-washed not once but "several times" before use).

 

Last but not least, I would greatly appreciate hearing from any other SF brothers/sisters out there that have experienced similar shirt sleeve length shrinkage problems and whether you were able to resolve them successfully, without having to remake the entire shirt.  Thanks!

 

More to follow...

 

Before (April 2014):

 

 

After (June 2014):

 

 

EDIT: My tailors (Ash Samtani) have kindly agreed to replace any shrunken sleeves on my Sea Island cotton shirts at no charge.  They've asked me to hasten the shrinkage process along by putting all my new shirts through several washing and ironing cycles before returning them to HK for remedial work.  On their part, I will be asking them to do the same (i.e. several pre-washing and ironing cycles) on the matching fabric they use to make the replacement sleeves.   


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 6/27/14 at 3:24pm
post #1774 of 1814

In relation to my above post about shirt sleeve length shrinkage, I've been doing some research here at SF and found a good thread on the subject.  

 

It appears there are other options (than simply remaking the whole sleeve) available, e.g. like adding additional matching fabric at the sleeve head end (concealed inside the arm hole seam) at gain a little more length. 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/161508/possible-to-lengthen-a-shirt-sleeve

 

EDIT: My tailors (Ash Samtani) have kindly agreed to replace any shrunken sleeves on my Sea Island cotton shirts at no charge.  They've asked me to hasten the shrinkage process along by putting all my new shirts through several washing and ironing cycles before returning them to HK for remedial work.  On their part, I will be asking them to do the same (i.e. several pre-washing and ironing cycles) on the matching fabric they use to make the replacement sleeves.   


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 6/27/14 at 3:22pm
post #1775 of 1814

@AlexE the cross wind's vertical fabric fold problems aside, your new WW Chan 3-piece suit and its fit looks good from the front.  Congratulations.  

 

Like Cat-Cat I would love to see a 180-360 view of your fit.  No easily done I know, as I've just been busy doing some 180-360 degree fit pictures of some new garments, which I'm about to post shortly.

post #1776 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydey900 View Post

Im am new to Hong Kong and would like a recommendation for a Tailor with the price range in between 2000-3000 HKD for a suit, I havnt seen any in between this bracket so would appreciate some thoughts?

Pay a vist to "Hola Classic" at Causeway Bay on HK island side.
post #1777 of 1814

... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

 

The focus on the post is on my new "Black English Blazer" (i.e. classic fit, English military-regular cut, 2-button with 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons) from Ash Samtani tailors.  

 

Recall, this blazer is the "master" pattern jacket from my fittings in HK back in April 2014, which all my new 2-button jackets are supposed to be close "copies" of -- both fit and quality wise.  That's the theory anyway.  We shall she the results of the remedial efforts in due course.

 

As noted in earlier posts, Ash Samtani tailors unfortunately failed to have all my orders completed in time for final fittings and my client acceptance while I was in HK.  So, I'm now completely dependent on Ash Samtani to deliver all my new jackets (i.e. three more blazers and two suit jackets) to the same standard and fit as the master pattern jacket below.

 

The reason I've posted pictures of the Black English Blazer again (albeit new 360 degree pictures this time) is that I will shortly be comparing my new jacket arrivals to this "master" jacket, to decide whether or not to accept them.

 

More to follow...

 

"Master" Pattern Jacket -- 180-360 Degree View:

 

 

EDIT:

- Apologies for the "black blob" picture quality issues above.  Unfortunately, it was the best result the lighting (a cold winter's day down under), my camera and my own "selfie" photographer capabilities could produce on the day.   

- Kindly note that the absence of visible shirt sleeve cuff is a function of shirt sleeve shrinkage and not jacket sleeve length, as noted in an earlier post.


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 6/26/14 at 9:05pm
post #1778 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post

... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

The focus on the post is on my new "Black English Blazer" (i.e. classic fit, English military-regular cut, 2-button with 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons) from Ash Samtani tailors.  

Recall, this blazer is the "master" pattern jacket from my fittings in HK back in April 2014, which all my new 2-button jackets are supposed to be close "copies" of -- both fit and quality wise.  That's the theory anyway.  We shall she the results of the remedial efforts in due course.

As noted in earlier posts, Ash Samtani tailors unfortunately failed to have all my orders completed in time for final fittings and my client acceptance while I was in HK.  So, I'm now completely dependent on Ash Samtani to deliver all my new jackets (i.e. three more blazers and two suit jackets) to the same standard and fit as the master pattern jacket below.

The reason I've posted pictures of the Black English Blazer again (albeit new 360 degree pictures this time) is that I will shortly be comparing my new jacket arrivals to this "master" jacket, to decide whether or not to accept them.

More to follow...

"Master" Pattern Jacket -- 180-360 Degree View:














EDIT:
- Apologies for the "black blob" picture quality issues above.  Unfortunately, it was the best result the lighting (a cold winter's day down under), my camera and my own "selfie" photographer capabilities could produce on the day.   
- Kindly note that the absence of visible shirt sleeve cuff is a function of shirt sleeve shrinkage and not jacket sleeve length, as noted in an earlier post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post

... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

The focus on the post is on my new "Black English Blazer" (i.e. classic fit, English military-regular cut, 2-button with 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons) from Ash Samtani tailors.  

Recall, this blazer is the "master" pattern jacket from my fittings in HK back in April 2014, which all my new 2-button jackets are supposed to be close "copies" of -- both fit and quality wise.  That's the theory anyway.  We shall she the results of the remedial efforts in due course.

As noted in earlier posts, Ash Samtani tailors unfortunately failed to have all my orders completed in time for final fittings and my client acceptance while I was in HK.  So, I'm now completely dependent on Ash Samtani to deliver all my new jackets (i.e. three more blazers and two suit jackets) to the same standard and fit as the master pattern jacket below.

The reason I've posted pictures of the Black English Blazer again (albeit new 360 degree pictures this time) is that I will shortly be comparing my new jacket arrivals to this "master" jacket, to decide whether or not to accept them.

More to follow...

"Master" Pattern Jacket -- 180-360 Degree View:














EDIT:
- Apologies for the "black blob" picture quality issues above.  Unfortunately, it was the best result the lighting (a cold winter's day down under), my camera and my own "selfie" photographer capabilities could produce on the day.   
- Kindly note that the absence of visible shirt sleeve cuff is a function of shirt sleeve shrinkage and not jacket sleeve length, as noted in an earlier post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post

... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

The focus on the post is on my new "Black English Blazer" (i.e. classic fit, English military-regular cut, 2-button with 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons) from Ash Samtani tailors.  

Recall, this blazer is the "master" pattern jacket from my fittings in HK back in April 2014, which all my new 2-button jackets are supposed to be close "copies" of -- both fit and quality wise.  That's the theory anyway.  We shall she the results of the remedial efforts in due course.

As noted in earlier posts, Ash Samtani tailors unfortunately failed to have all my orders completed in time for final fittings and my client acceptance while I was in HK.  So, I'm now completely dependent on Ash Samtani to deliver all my new jackets (i.e. three more blazers and two suit jackets) to the same standard and fit as the master pattern jacket below.

The reason I've posted pictures of the Black English Blazer again (albeit new 360 degree pictures this time) is that I will shortly be comparing my new jacket arrivals to this "master" jacket, to decide whether or not to accept them.

More to follow...

"Master" Pattern Jacket -- 180-360 Degree View:














EDIT:
- Apologies for the "black blob" picture quality issues above.  Unfortunately, it was the best result the lighting (a cold winter's day down under), my camera and my own "selfie" photographer capabilities could produce on the day.   
- Kindly note that the absence of visible shirt sleeve cuff is a function of shirt sleeve shrinkage and not jacket sleeve length, as noted in an earlier post.

To my taste, the back of the blazer is a bit loose or too big.
post #1779 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Car View Post

To my taste, the back of the blazer is a bit loose or too big.

 

@Classic Car thanks for the prompt fit feedback, which is greatly appreciated.   

post #1780 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post

@Classic Car
 thanks for the prompt fit feedback, which is greatly appreciated.   

Have you lost weight recently? No doubt it is a nicely made blazer but my personal view, it is one size bigger for you.
post #1781 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Car View Post


Have you lost weight recently? No doubt it is a nicely made blazer but my personal view, it is one size bigger for you.

 

@Classic Car yes I have lost a lot of weight in recent years, but not since the black blazer's (master pattern) fitting in HK back in April 2014. 

 

My older age is one reason for my preference for a "classic fit" over a contemporary slim fit.  I'm 50 years old now and think the classic fit is more age appropriate for me.

 

Regarding my weight loss, I'm 6' (183 cm) tall and 176 lbs (80 kg) now, I used to be clinically obese 4-5 years ago weighing in at 243 lbs (110 kg).  However, I managed to loose the excess weight and kept it off through a better nutrition approach (I am a raw foodist) to weight loss -- not exercise.  However, I'm about to start regular exercise (light resistance training) to tone up my body -- now on the unflattering "slim but not toned AKA skinny fat" side of the spectrum.  Hence, another reason for my preference for classic fit over slimmer fit -- a little extra room to accommodate desired new toned body.  

 

Having said that, your observation of "one size too big" is duly noted, as I respect your opinion.  I'm in the process of ordering a contemporary Neapolitan sports jacket and will get that in a slim fit and talk to my tailor about slimming down my English military-regular cut jackets.  Again, thanks for taking the time to comment, much appreciated.   

post #1782 of 1814

TIP:  If the following pre-requisite conditions apply to you, then I suggest that you invest in a digital camera and tripod to make the process of remotely assisting your tailor to fit and/or adjust any of your new garments.  

 

Pre-requisite Conditions:

- For whatever reason, you failed to obtain completed garments with acceptable final fits during your last trip to HK.

- During your next planned visit to HK, you don't have the time or financial budget to remain there until all your orders have been completed with a final fit that is acceptable to you.  This process could take 1-2 weeks or more depending on: your tailor, the quantity of your new commissions and your individual bespoke requirements.  Note: SF brothers and sisters can be much more demanding about their requirements and fits than the average punter.  Hence, post completion adjustments can well be expected.

- You're not living in a location near to your preferred HK tailor's overseas tour route.

- You don't have an extra set of willing/qualified hands and eyes available to assist you with the remote fitting and adjustment process, i.e. taking good photos and critically observing the fits.  Note: relying on a tailor shop's three way mirrors to observe your own fit and/or their staff exclusively to observe the fit can lead to "buyers remorse", when you eventually have the opportunity to take 360 degree photos and critically observe them to "see for yourself".

 

The above tip has certainly made life easier for me recently.  Alas, my experience has been that the process of achieving a "good fit" has gotten much more difficult than in years gone by; which I think may be a function of the fabric weights getting lighter, the declining knowledge/skills base of the HK custom tailoring industry (as the old school "sifu" slowly die off), and my own expectations rising with the passing years.

 

Confession: the amount of time and effort required to achieve a good fit remotely may be considerable (depending on your tailor, quantity of garments commissioned and individual bespoke requirements once again) and is not recommended for the faint hearted, which should be factored in to your cost/benefit analysis when deciding how long to remain in HK during your sartorial sojourn.   If you leave without completed garments that fit properly (that happened to me recently), then you are unwittingly signing up to be an unpaid remote member of tailor shop's workforce for however long it takes to complete your new garment(s) project.  

 

The irony is that I went to HK to avoid having to do remote fittings and adjustments, which I'd already unsuccessfully attempted to do (i.e. a blazer via mail order) for nine months prior to my HK visit.   Now I'm facing the prospect of fitting and adjusting multiple garments remotely, owing to the tailor not been able to complete my orders during my 8 day visit to HK earlier in the year.   In other words, the original problem I was hoping to avoid has now been "magnified" as multiple garments are now involved.  Caveat emptor! 


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 7/1/14 at 7:57pm
post #1783 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Car View Post



To my taste, the back of the blazer is a bit loose or too big.

hey man, edit your post!
you don't need to quote a post three times to comment just a few words! baldy[1].gif
post #1784 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

hey man, edit your post!
you don't need to quote a post three times to comment just a few words! baldy[1].gif

My mouse was bad and I had it replaced.
post #1785 of 1814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Car View Post

My mouse was bad and I had it replaced.

But you still didn't edit the post! facepalm.gif
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