or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Hong Kong Tailors Thread - Page 91

post #1351 of 1361

I couldn't disagree more. Zee's is complete rubbish. I recently picked up a pair of custom-made Oxfords from there and the quality + fit was terrible. They gave me massive blisters and joint pain. Worst pair of shoes I've ever owned. When I wanted to return them, they got really angry. Eventually, they agreed to 'fix it' but it only got worse. 2000 HKD down the drain. Sticking to Lane Crawford now. They tend to have a good selection of comfortable & reasonably priced leather shoes. Zee's is complete rubbish and I can't believe they are getting such favourable reviews on this forum.

post #1352 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by justintime88 View Post

I couldn't disagree more. Zee's is complete rubbish. I recently picked up a pair of custom-made Oxfords from there and the quality + fit was terrible. They gave me massive blisters and joint pain. Worst pair of shoes I've ever owned. When I wanted to return them, they got really angry. Eventually, they agreed to 'fix it' but it only got worse. 2000 HKD down the drain. Sticking to Lane Crawford now. They tend to have a good selection of comfortable & reasonably priced leather shoes. Zee's is complete rubbish and I can't believe they are getting such favourable reviews on this forum.

Hey man, here is tailor thread! facepalm.gif
post #1353 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolama View Post
 

Hi,

does anybody know if any of the many tailors in HK have experience in what italians call "spalla insellata" (in english would be translated as "saddled shoulder")?

I'm sure many of you know what I am talking about. It's a kind of shoulder quite popular in Naples starting from the 40's. I'm personally a fan of this kind of shoulder but it requires very decent tailoring skills, so I was wondering which tailor could do this for me in HK.

 

Here an example (it's a Rubinacci jacket):

 

 

PM this guy:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/u/83246/add911-11

 

IIRC he recently had a suit done by a tailor in HK with a gorgeous pagoda shoulder.  

post #1354 of 1361

Hi guys,

 

Looking for a good value hong kong tailor. Something affordable within the 6000 HKD range with maybe a shirt and tie included (2pc). I've done some quick research and found these names:

Gordon Yao, WW Chan & Sons, Sams Tailor, Willian Yu, A Man Hing Cheong, Empire International Tailors, British Tailors, Baron Kay.

I need two suits one navy and one basic grey to wear everyday for work. Any advice on style and cut would be very much appreciated too.

Ive been checking out www.suitsupply.com and love their light and soft looking suits.

I will post pictures.

 

Thanks in advance!

post #1355 of 1361

I feel like my previous photos of this jacket was not very indicative so I took a new set. Somehow manage to screw up and forgot to adjust my tie properly, but whatever. I think it looks better here (and the button stance thing too).

 

 

 

 

post #1356 of 1361

Isolation: Yes, much better photos this time around.  Like myself you appear to have a right shoulder drop asymmetry issue, which your tailor must contend with.  Overall the brown colour and contemporary slim fit sports jacket suits you very well.  My additional observations are below.

 

Rear View:

- The shoulder to waist drop is quite pronounced, perhaps a little too severe.  However, I accept that perhaps this may be contemporary fit thing preferred by hip young men like yourself.  Unfortunately, the result appears to be a vertical drape folds in the shoulder area.

- Perhaps, the shoulder width/pitch may be a little too wide?  Hence above mentioned drop and vertical drape folds issues.  I expect more experienced members here will comment further about this.

- Rumpled sleeves suggest that sleeve pitch requires adjustment and/or sleeve may need to be trimmed further, in line with your contemporary fit look.

- Too much skirt around the rear vents for contemporary slim fit.

 

Side View:

- No collar gap. A decent amount of shirt collar visible about jacket collar.  Good.  But, out of proportion with visible shirt sleeve cuffs, if you wish to roll (harmoniously balanced) in that way.

- Sleeve pitch issues visible again but don't look so pronounced side on.

- Divots/dimples mid upper arm suggest minor adjustments required.

- Gapping side vent obvious but this may be a result of the fabric choice (linen?).  A good steam pressing might resolve that issue.

 

Front View:

- Good shoulder line, i.e. no obvious ripples.  Albeit, see above mentioned possible shoulder width/pitch issue.

- Right shoulder drop already noted above.

- Sleeve pitch issue already noted above.

- Sleeve length and shirt cuff asymmetry issues need minor adjustments,especially on left sleeve.  Alternatively, if you remove your large chrono/sports watch on left arm and replace it with a slimmer profile dress watch, then the aforementioned sleeve/shirt cuff adjustment might be avoided all together.  Just a thought.

- Button stance and jacket quarters looks good.  

- However, arguably, there is a minor "X fold" (i.e. too tight) around top jacket button.  Again, this may well be a contemporary slim fit preference, favoured by younger men nowadays.   (Note: "Old folk" classic fit guys like myself tend not to have "X fold" too tight issues, unless our beer/wheat/"mee hoon" noodle bellies get too big and out of control).  :) 

- Maybe semi/spread collars on your shirts (with shorter point lengths) would look better with your contemporary slim fit lapels and tie.  Just a thought.

 

Again, your contemporary look is hip and sharp.  Keep persevering with your fit, you're almost there from my amateur perspective.  Well done.  Thanks for sharing!

 

Edit: correction "folds" not folders; "shirts" not shorts; and "lapels" not labels.  Apologies for my sloppy editing earlier.


Edited by BespokeKiwi - Today at 9:35 am
post #1357 of 1361
@Isolation. Looks okay from the front, but to be honest, looks pretty nasty from behind.
post #1358 of 1361
Isolation.

Indeed better pictures but I remain of my previous view, too many faults to be worth going to this butcher again., Try Gordon Yao or even Chan or Y William Yu.
post #1359 of 1361
Isolation

New photos are a lot better.

BespokeKiwi have summed it up pretty well. You have dropped right shoulder and your tailor should compensate it during fitting it also looks a tad wide. Waist has too much suppression. You need to take the coat back to your tailor and have them clean up the back and adjust the sleeve pitch.
On the styling front I understand you are going for a contemporary look but consider making the lapel wider it would look more balance. The front or quarters could be open up slightly as well. The coat also looks to have very padded shoulders perhaps ask for a more natural shoulder or lighter padded shoulder for your next commission.
post #1360 of 1361
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolama View Post

Hi,
does anybody know if any of the many tailors in HK have experience in what italians call "spalla insellata" (in english would be translated as "saddled shoulder")?
I'm sure many of you know what I am talking about. It's a kind of shoulder quite popular in Naples starting from the 40's. I'm personally a fan of this kind of shoulder but it requires very decent tailoring skills, so I was wondering which tailor could do this for me in HK.

Here an example (it's a Rubinacci jacket):
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Here you go.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/33568/the-hong-kong-tailors-thread/1125#post_7012360
post #1361 of 1361

isolation: besides, your taste in other things clearly deserves a higher quality tailor: I see a box set of BBC Shakespeare productions, the whole Game of Thrones series, a good movie collection, and bottles of port and Inniskillin icewine. Excellent choices all around. ;)

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Hong Kong Tailors Thread