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kiton, attolini, brioni, more—who has the shortest rise

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

i don't like to wear my pants too high and I like to wear a belt rather than braces, so I need a shorter rise.. Also, I already have long legs and a short torso, so wearing my pants at my belly button just looks silly on me. I'm in the market for a new pair of trou, money is not an issue so ideally I'd like to go for the best quality available off the rack.. Which of these brands has the shortest rise? I tried Incotex and they are too long in the crotch region, so I'm hoping you guys will say something else :P... Otherwise I'm doomed and will have stick with contemporary designer brands and sacrifice quality for fit. Ideally they should also be readily available in NYC, so these brands include:

 

brioni

kiton

attolini 

oxxford

tom ford

incotex

isaia

rlpl

post #2 of 11
My guess would be incotex based on their slimness. I dont have experience with all these brands, but that's where I would start. Next stop would be Tom Ford, but not nearly as likely.
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 

surprisingly I've found that new BRIONI has the same rise as Incotex, which is just slightly too long for me... Incotex chino-linos (cotton/linen) for some reason have the rise I like, probably because they are a casual pant and meant to be worn lower.. I like to wear ALL of my pants lower though for reasons aforementioned. I read on one thread here that a member purchased a pair of Attolini trou from another member and the rise was too short for him, measuring 9.75 inches, which gave me hope that maybe their cut is what I'm looking for..  

post #4 of 11
Incotex has different rises.
Try Incotex slim fit.
Brooks Bros Milano has a short rise.
Certain Gucci pants have a very short rise, don't know what model they are though.
PT01 has a very short rise and the cuffs are 7 1/2 inches.
post #5 of 11
Incotex in US sizing is actually quite full for the most part. And you'd be hard pressed to find the European sized Incotex within the US, but those definitely have much shorter rises. Tom Ford, for the most part, seems to have a longer rise - especially their pleated trousers (obviously). Brioni also tends to be fuller cut and longer rises, but again if you can find the European sized ones then they will have a shorter rise as well. May want to consider Borrelli.
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftking View Post

Incotex has different rises.
Try Incotex slim fit.
Brooks Bros Milano has a short rise.
Certain Gucci pants have a very short rise, don't know what model they are though.
PT01 has a very short rise and the cuffs are 7 1/2 inches.

 

I do actually wear Brooks Bros Milano chinos and they fit great, but I'm not sure if the quality of their suit trou is really what I'm looking for. Gucci does have a short rise as well as Prada and those are some of the designers that I wear, but again was trying to go a notch up in terms of quality.. I'll have to try Incotex again, apparently Barneys got a new line called "Gold", which is their trimmest yet. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

May want to consider Borrelli.
 
I'll swing by the boutique again but for some reason the last time I was there I didn't see suit trou? Maybe that's ridiculous though, I'm sure they must have 100% wool pant separates in charcoal—I'll have to double check.  
post #7 of 11
Are these trousers to wear by themselves or with a jacket? I think pants when wearing with a jacket require a longer rise, but that's up to you. Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Ralph Lauren Black Label will have shorter rises.

And you mentioned Kiton... are you really going to spend $1500 + on a pair of ready to wear trousers?
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfluous View Post

Are these trousers to wear by themselves or with a jacket? I think pants when wearing with a jacket require a longer rise, but that's up to you. Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Ralph Lauren Black Label will have shorter rises.

And you mentioned Kiton... are you really going to spend $1500 + on a pair of ready to wear trousers?

 

They are trousers to wear with a sport coat, and I know that technically you're supposed to wear them up to the lower button so that no shirt is showing when your jacket is closed, but when I've tried on longer rises I get a few things that look off... The other thing I should mention is that I wear my jacket open a lot... I don't think it looks as bad on me for some reason—Maybe because my build, and I've also seen Agnelli do it a lot.

 

1) Are trousers supposed to cut your body in half? If so, wearing pants higher than I already do (about 1.5-2 inches below my belly-button) makes my torso look too short and legs considerably longer than my upper body and to me it looks a little disproportionate.. If not then disregard.

 

The other question I have is that when I wear trousers with a long rise they tend to form this odd swerve/heft where my crotch is as demonstrated in this picture—

(click to enlarge)

 

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

 

 

When I walk the curve becomes almost like a pouch that runs across the legs as demonstrated in this picture except even more severe.. oh, and the pockets stick out like mickey mouse ears.

 

 

The pouch looks weird—In a different post I compared it to swim trunks that parachute out when you first walk into the pool. Maybe that's only the Brioni pants that I tried on? I actually read in one of the threads that the mickey mouse ears happen because the legs are too slim, and to go one size up and just take-in the waist to correct the issue, but if you go one size up wouldn't the rise be even longer?

 

 

I had no idea Kiton was that expensive.. I figured they'd be the same as Brioni.. I'll pay $900 before tax but I really shouldn't be spending fifteen hundred on a pair of pants.


Edited by newyorknoir - 2/10/13 at 6:56pm
post #9 of 11
$900 is pretty steep for off the rack pants as well. Do you know what you'd be paying for?
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfluous View Post

$900 is pretty steep for off the rack pants as well. Do you know what you'd be paying for?

 

I guess the construction because I don't really care for high supers... the 150s I've seen at Brioni are kind of shiny, and I read somewhere that higher supers wear down faster? I guess if I was to do MTM and get the same quality product as Brioni or Kiton I'd have to pay around the same amount anyway? Do you happen to know about the fit questions I have too?

post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by newyorknoir View Post

I guess the construction because I don't really care for high supers...

Not sure if you'd see a return on investment in terms of construction past the $500 mark, but who knows. I'd be more focused on the fit and fabric. I'm sure at the $900 mark there are some custom/bespoke options available though.
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