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HOF: Glossary of terms/ Best posts/ FAQ/ Links

post #1 of 61
Thread Starter 
On the suggestion of many users, I think we should get a full glossary of clothing terms put together with consensus definitions so that people can discuss things more easily and without confusion. Everyone post terms that are confusing or misleading and we'll get some discussion going on the definitions for them, then I'll edit it or get someone to edit it together into a HOF post so it will be easy to find for new people. Feel free to search the archives and web to pick out already posted definitions you think fit the bill and we'll collect them here and discuss them. Contributors will get credit for their definitions in the final post. For the sake of cohesion and easy reading I will delete replies to this topic that have been incorporated and credited in the original topic. -----The post in progress---- Definitions: Suit terms: Half-canvassed --
describes a suit that has a fused interlining in the body of the coat, but where the lapels are canvas stitched as opposed to fused. *The canvas interlining in the lapels can be either hand stitched or machine stitched. *This term is often used mistakenly to describe a suit that has a canvas chest piece, which is something that every man's suit has. * *You can most often tell whether a fused suit is half-canvassed by rubbing together the front and the back of the lapel between your fingers. *If the lapels run over each other smoothly, chances are it the lapels are fused (the fusible fabric is very smooth). *If it feels a bit rough -- like canvas -- that means it is a canvassed lapel. *In some half-canvas suits, you can even see pad-stitch marks (dimples) on the underside of the lapel. (johnnynorman3)
Fused --
describes a coat where a soft, pliable knit fabric has been literally heat glued (like an iron on patch) to the underside of the jacket's wool fabric. *This fused fabric gives the wool a bit of body, but also makes the wool thicker and stiffer. *The fused fabric may tend to get stiffer over time, eventually causing the fabric of the suit to look bad. * (johnnynorman3)
Full-canvas (unfused) --
describes a coat where, instead of using a fusible fabric to give the wool body, a canvas interlining has been stitched to the seams of the entire front of the jacket from the shoulders to the botton hem. *This interlining gives the jacket its shape without relying on fusible fabric. *As a result, the wool is in its natural state (i.e. thin, supple, and breathable). *You can most easily tell whether a suit is fused or unfused by pinching some fabric above the chest pocket; in an unfused suit, the fabric will feel just as thin as the fabric at the back of the coat, whereas in a fused suit is will feel thicker. *If you think it might feel a little bit thicker, that probably means that it is (in other words, once you perform the pinch test on an unfused suit, you will have no trouble telling in the future). (johnnynorman3)
"2 1/2 button" --
On a true 3-button coat, the lapel roll ends just above the top button. *The lapels are therefore quite short. *Even if you don't button the top button, the coat will look "closed" pretty much all the way up to the top button. On a 2-button coat with an extra button, the lapel roll ends above the waist button. *The extra "idle" button remains hidden behind the rolled lapel; on the other side, you can see maybe half of the extra buttonhole. On both of the above types of coat, the lapel roll ends in a pretty decisive fashion. *The lapel should not look "folded over" in the sense of pressed flat, but there should be a clear point where it ends. On a 2 1/2 or "roll through" coat, the lapel roll does not so much "end" as just sort of "disipate." *Rather than looking "folded over" right above the waist button, the lapel edge almost stands straight out. *The lapel roll is much more gradual; the line of the lapel is longer than on a true 3-button, but somewhat shorter than a 2-button. *You can see the upper idle button and buttonhole pretty clearly. *Also, the coat above the waist button is open enough that trying to button the top button would really pull and strain the chest. This picture of a Castangia suit, worn by Renault78law, is a textbook example: (Manton)
Info: What you might want to specify in a MTM/bespoke suit:
Here's something I posted a while ago that could help with this topic (edited for clarity): Jacket - Lapel width - Gorge height - Real or false lapel buttonhole - Button stance (high, normal, low) - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - Shoulder padding - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - Sleeve taper/circumference - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - Number of sleeve buttons - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing" - Jetted or flapped pockets - Single, double, or no vents - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - Inside pockets (up to you) Many of these options depend on your own body shape. Trousers- Button or zipper fly - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - Fork height (tight, normal, loose) - Leg taper - Leg width - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - Tab closure above fly - Belt loops or brace buttons You might want to consider the silhouette that's best for you. You can use a RTW suit that you like as a base model. Your first suit probably won't have EVERYTHING you want it to have, simply because 1) you forget some detail or fail to prompt for it, or 2) the guy making it forgets or fails to ask. Communication is KEY. Guidelines I use: I'm short. I'm thin. My jacket therefore has the following: - Lapel width: A little more than half the space between the edge of the "V" and the shoulder seam - Gorge height: Very high - Real or false lapel buttonhole: Real (of course. - Button stance (high, normal, low): High two-button, with the topmost button a little above my natural waist. - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low): Normal, but my next one will be a quarter-inch higher because I'm picky. - Shoulder padding: Minimal. - Armholes (tight, normal, loose): Tight, meaning high. - Sleeve taper/circumference: More so than usual, thanks to my thin wrists. - Real or false sleeve buttonholes: Real. But this is entirely up to you. I chose real because I think the false ones look a bit too goofy, or at least the way they make false ones over here. - Number of sleeve buttons: 4, but this has nothing to do with my body shape. - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing": Same here, nothing to do with my body shape. But I like kissing buttons. - Jetted or flapped pockets: Flapped, because that's what Flusser recommends and because I sort of like them. - Single, double, or no vents: I always go double. The vents end right at the height of my pockets. - Jacket length (long, normal, short): Short. I hate how longer jackets make me look. - Inside pockets (up to you): I don't use them much for anything. I think I have two regular buttoned pockets, one pen pocket, and one for a cell phone or something. Remember: If you're getting a short, fitted jacket, get pants that either break lightly or rest on the top of your shoe. If you're going for a more roomy fit, get roomier trousers with a larger break. Nothing is more awkward than seeing a guy with a roomy jacket wearing rail-thin trousers. The whole idea is to make the transition from jacket to trousers a consistent one. Also, the list is by no means comprehensive. A large part of a bespoke suit's styling will depend on the cooperation and vision of both customer and tailor. The best bet for "newbies" going bespoke is to model their suit after something RTW that they find the most appealing to their body. (Alias)
Concise definitions of a great number of footwear terms Ian Fieggen's Shoe Lacing site Fabric terms: A good dictionary of fabric terms is at this site. Pick your country and then go to the "Dictionary" on the left column. (Thanks to Qasimkhan) Clothing Glossary: A far from comprehensive (but helpful nonethless) glossary, courtesy of the good folks at Ben Silver... (Thanks to Keith T) Tailoring terms: From Kilgour French Stanbury's website, a glossary of tailoring terms: (Thanks to Chilli Padi) Fabrics: general info: Fabrics.Net (Thanks to FIHTies) Tie Knots: Good color shots of step by step knot tying as well as videos. (FIHTies) Tie Knots: Theory of Tie Knots and the corresponding PDF article. (faustian bargain) Apparel Related Glossaries from Best posts: A. Harris's guide to antiquing shoes A. Harris's "Shoes explained" thread FIHTies's "Various types of ties" thread Manton's (Nicholas Antongiovanni, author of "The Suit")'s article on Suit Silhouettes Bespoke jackets: Darren Beaman's post on the making of a bespoke jacket Books on Clothing - and the Style Forum Amazon Store How to pack a suit for shipping How to measure suits for eBay (A Harris) Men's Fashion / Style / Clothing websites (Cherrytree et al.) Stain Removal: Versaceman's Stain Removal Guide A Tale of Two Shoes: Fixing a pair of Bruno Maglis - Photoessay by meaculpa Andrew Harris's bespoke suit picture listing Pronunciation guide to designers, brands, terms Ron Rider's guide to shoe care The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors The official thrift/discount store bragging thread Shoe Damage Report & Shoe Porn Central Shoe Damage Report & Shoe Porn Central - Part II The Watch Porn Thread The Manhattan Sales Alert thread Labels, heels, and nail patterns - secrets to ID the maker of your shoes, jacket or suit Comprehensive List of Links to High-End Shoes Shoe Pictorial Index The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts Official Events and PSA thread CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment WAYWRN (What Are You Wearing Right Now?) Part II WAYWRN (What Are You Wearing Right Now?) - Part III Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here
post #2 of 61 Concise definitions of a great number of footwear terms.
post #3 of 61
I found this info on google groups: The quality of wool has always been determined by the fineness of the diameter of its fiber. The finer the diameter, the better the quality and the softer the handle. Beyond this point, however, no exact definition of wool grades exist and each country is left to establish its own criteria. In the case of the Supers (100,200, etc.), for example, it's nearly impossible for the consumer to understand the classification system. To avoid any such confusion, Dormeuil has always given quality designations for each Super in line with the UK NWTEC Code of Practice. The fiber diameter, which is measured in microns, is examined and calculated from the Wool Ecru Top. When the exact micron has been found then the wool is classified as in the chart. Quality Designation Means Fiber Diameter of Ecru Top (in Microns) Super 200s 13.0 Super 190s 13.1 - 13.5 Super 180s 13.6 - 14.0 Super 170s 14.1 - 14.5 Super 160s 14.6 - 15.0 Super 150s 15.1 - 15.5 Super 140s 15.6 - 16.0 Super 130s 16.1 - 16.5 Super 120s 16.6 - 17.5 Super 110s 17.6 - 18.0 Super 100s 18.1 - 18.5 Please note that there are a lot of custom tailors out there in the market that are falsely advertising that their materials are authentic Super 100s, 120s, and 150s. Moreover, they do not know the actual meaning of Super Clothes. You can tell that its fake if the material book contains the codes RD, KT, OM, LW, HW, KB are all false label Super Fabrics. La Rukico Tailors is the only tailor from Hong Kong who carries genuine Super Fabrics from Dormeuil, Holland and Sherry, Wain Shiell, and Scabal. Please forward this e-mail to everyone you know that buys custom clothing to prevent them from buying these fake clothes. La Rukico tailors is located at 145 E.48th St. Suite 7F New York, NY 10017 (212)832-0725 or call toll free at (800)284-SUIT Yours truly, Mr. Kelly ___ Delete if inappropriate or if it's bullshit.
post #4 of 61
Shoefan's excellent explanation of bespoke, custom, and "MTM" footwear and the differences between them.
post #5 of 61
WRT Supers... the micronages look correct but the important point is that Supers are mostly hype. We're measuring one thing here - micronage. How about length? Elasticity and breaking strength? How about whether the wool was washed, dried, rested spun, rested, woven properly??? On our last trip to Biella I really got to see the process done right at Carlo Barbera. Their 160's is more than twice the price of their 150s... why? Because it is a very special wool due to the loooong fine fibers. They only get a certain amount of it and when it is gone it is gone but the stuff has a hand, sheen and character nicer than the super 200's I've seen elsewhere and it does not fall apart under a needle. Remember - a good super 100's is a lot better than an average 130's in every aspect except for diameter of the threads. Cashmere illustrates this very well - the cheap crap is very fuzzy and feels the softest... that's the crap, the fuzzy nature is due to short strands. Compare that to the 'harder' worsted cashmeres of long fibers... they feel far less soft initially but get softer over time without pilling or wearing out.
post #6 of 61
this one just came up again: fifteen ways to tie shoelaces this and the tie-knotting white paper make for some pretty comprehensive reading.
post #7 of 61
post #8 of 61
how do i link to a particular post? or is that possible on this board... anyway, RIDER's good shoe-care post is here: linky linky
post #9 of 61
post #10 of 61
Shoemaking terms are difficult, one thing is that there are a few hundred of them, another thing is that they vary alot depended on where you are, even in UK, Scandinavia, or German. The following source is quite good, based on the generale british shoe-terminology. The dictionary is written by Tony Garley and he has many years of experience in the trade. The first edition is printed in 2001. Produced and published by AM Garley, 32 Brooke Road, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 6HH, UK. ISBN 0-9541647-0-9., or you can find the dictionary at website; very shortly. For the time being under construction, but will be operative within a few weeks.

The cant or secret language of thieves or beggars, "pedlars French"; the perculiar lingo of any profession or class; any language not generally understood.
The Oxford English Dictionary

Enclosing a detailed picture showing what shape I am looking for with two different tools in my hand. To acchive the zig-zag pattern on top of the welt I normally use either a "fudge wheel", or a "stitch pricker". The pricker is not a wheel, but a tool, usually made out of a 7"inch nail with a filed V-groove at the end and a handle in the other end. Both these tools are used to shape the welt and stitches and make them waterproof with wax. The other tool I use is the "edge-iron". This to make a light concave shape on the edge of the sole.

post #11 of 61
post #12 of 61
One thread I find myself returning to time and again is A Harris's bespoke suit picture listing:
post #13 of 61
Does anyone know what roped shoulders are?
post #14 of 61
from a recent inquiry, i vote for meaculpa's A Tale of Two Shoes: Fixing a pair of Bruno Maglis Photoessay to be added to the best post/thread list.

post #15 of 61
Here's a link that might be of some use to you folks, It's certainly helped me.

It's a list of related glossaries from ''
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