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'iGent Myths Busted!' - Page 2

post #16 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post


it was actually noted and notable at the time and discussed in the press. As in, "the brown suit, the also-ran sign of the midwestern shoe salesman, is back: the president is wearing them!!" In other words, not only did he not wear them that often, they really didn't catch on much beyond him.

I've quoted this before, but in 1993 the Federation of Merchant Tailors in London put out a press release saying "It is now OK to wear brown in town." Still, one almost never sees it in London.

 

 

You see many sartorial offences in London, but I would feel very out of place wearing country colours in London other than perhaps for a weekend walk in Hyde Park.
 

post #17 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Reagan wore brown suits regularly.

My recollection is that most of his browns spanned the seventies to early eighties and felt like more a result of the times (the seventies, ugh...) than individual sartorial rule bending.
post #18 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

There's a difference between something being "against the rules" and something that's completely unremarkable and foolproof. I assure you, if Obama or Boehner or some other major politician started wearing brown suits all the time, it would be remarked upon.

At the same time, if you work in a Silicon Valley company, and you wear a tie, much less a jacket, and it will be remarked upon.

In academia, outside of maybe business or law schools, you could wear a three piece suit everyday, or an old tee shirt and cheap jeans, and no one would care. You'd have to be completely naked or dressed like a pirate for people to start taking notice.

Outside of communities like this, I think that the "language of classic menswear", as Foo has called it before, is degraded to the point that it can used only to broadcast the most general of signals.
post #19 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

At the same time, if you work in a Silicon Valley company, and you wear a tie, much less a jacket, and it will be remarked upon.

In academia, outside of maybe business or law schools, you could wear a three piece suit everyday, or an old tee shirt and cheap jeans, and no one would care. You'd have to be completely naked or dressed like a pirate for people to start taking notice.

Outside of communities like this, I think that the "language of classic menswear", as Foo has called it before, is degraded to the point that it can used only to broadcast the most general of signals.

Disagree about the Silicon Valley comment. There are enough weirdos and nerds here that wearing a tie or a jacket in the casual sense won't attract that much attention. It's pretty common sight at SOMA techs. Just another form of hipster costume.

But of course, two piece navy suits with black knit tie on pale blue shirt and polished cap toes will look very out of place at the tech world. Unless you are Jack Dorsey.
post #20 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

This article is unnerving. If Sator is right and the extensive tailoring and etiquette library he has amassed and digested backs all statements, I've been a victim of these iGent myths. What's more, the claims have plenty of victims among us who've grown up reading menswear sites.

One question remains: has anyone read the same tomes Sator lists as reference?

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2542

If you can get it to work without looking costumey, all the more power to you. The rest of us mere mortals are better for the "rules".
post #21 of 301
I think these guys ought to really stick it to the man, have the courage of their convictions, etc.

Time for a DB notch DJ, in brown.

You have nothing to lose but your chains!
post #22 of 301
Is that forum seriously still around?
post #23 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I think these guys ought to really stick it to the man, have the courage of their convictions, etc.

Time for a DB notch DJ, in brown.

You have nothing to lose but your chains!


This is when you are at your best.
post #24 of 301
Having paid at least a modest amount of attention to sartorial matters most of my fairly long adult life, including almost 40 years before I discovered the clothing fora, Sator's post merely confirms a lot of what I have suspected right along (and sometimes articulated here and elsewhere in forumland).
post #25 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I think these guys ought to really stick it to the man, have the courage of their convictions, etc.

Time for a DB notch DJ, in brown.

You have nothing to lose but your chains!

I was actually at a black tie 'do' a few years back where I saw a man wearing a dark brown velvet smoking jacket. I liked it, had a louche, fin de siècle look to. If only he'd have been sipping Absinthe out of a Lalique glass.
post #26 of 301
most people cant seem to be able to think for themselves. sad
post #27 of 301

Tip of the hat to Sator - well written and most informative.

post #28 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trompe le Monde View Post

most people cant seem to be able to think for themselves. sad

I bet I can find one case of someone thinking of themselves 150 years ago - the account being published in an obscure trade journal - that would prove your statement wrong.
post #29 of 301

I don't get what the big deal is with "busting" the "iGent myth". I always thought the "rules", whatever they are, serve as an outline for a coherent means to build a wardrobe full of versatile pieces. So what if, for instance, there's some evidence that men did wear tuxedos with notched lapels? Whether or not that's "correct" isn't the point - the point seems to be that one should understand the difference between what the notched and peak lapels are supposed to convey and then decide for themselves what is most appropriate. But maybe it's more fun to suppose there are many  god-given sets of "rules" and then have the various adherents wage a holy war upon one another. Or maybe I'm missing the point entirely here.

post #30 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post

Having paid at least a modest amount of attention to sartorial matters most of my fairly long adult life, including almost 40 years before I discovered the clothing fora, Sator's post merely confirms a lot of what I have suspected right along (and sometimes articulated here and elsewhere in forumland).

+1

I am tired of posting on this and other fora that there are no rules, only time and place-specific conventions.

Item: I and every other middle-class Englishman that I knew grew up believing that a black full-brogue was acceptable CBD footwear in the UK.

Apparently, we were all wrong, as were our fathers and grandfathers, from some of whom we inherited those black full brogues, because some Americans on the internet, reading books written by Americans or a German, said so.

It is not relevant that I have not bought a pair of black full brogues in twenty years. :-)
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