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'iGent Myths Busted!' - Page 9

post #121 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

What are you considering classic combos? I don't usually think in such terms. In terms of sportcoats, tweed comes in all colors, from light to dark. Camel hair is traditionally, well, camel. For my medium brown coats, sometimes I opt for lighter trou, sometimes for darker. I like flexibility.

I can tell you I get great use out of my dark brown cords.

I always thought the rule was to ensure there was contrast in odd jacket/pant combinations to avoid it looking like a slightly mismatched suit and that the contrast was also more pleasing aesthetically. That would suggest the rule was base don contrast and yet we have now extended the rule to be that pants must be light than the jacket. I actually get a lot of use from my navy and charcoal flannel trousers with my lighter coloured tweeds.
post #122 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

And it worked, didn't? Whatever you think of his politics, he was a master at playing the game.

I agree. To play the game you have to know the rules and the language. Just like you should know whether or not it's polite to belch at the table in whichever country you're about to eat dinner.
post #123 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Navy blazer, mid-grey trou. Navy blazer, cream/buff trou or chinos. Morning dress. The stroller. I'm certainly not doubting that you look smashing in your dark brown cords. I have some myself that I wear on weekends. I'm referring just to the standard odd jacket/trouser outfits that have been worn consistently for decades. I'm open to suggestions for other combinations as being classic. Is a camel hair odd jacket really a classic? To me it looks like a fabric for overcoats. I usually see it as an odd jacket only in Jack Victor ads. Am I crazy?

The examples you are using are certainly iconic and they adhere to the contrast rule I mentioned just above but I don't see them as defining the light pants rule - merely being well known examples showing contrast between the pants and jacket.
post #124 of 301
If there is a "rule" regarding jacket & trou, it is that there must be tonal contrast. So, dark coat, light pents. And vice versa. since dark coats tend to outnumber light ones, light pents are more useful.

I would also say that while wearing nothing but dark coats would get dull, if a man had to choose between a closet full of dark or light, he's better off with dark.

My dark coats probably outnumber the ligher ones around 2 to1.
post #125 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If there is a "rule" regarding jacket & trou, it is that there must be tonal contrast. So, dark coat, light pents. And vice versa. since dark coats tend to outnumber light ones, light pents are more useful.

I would also say that while wearing nothing but dark coats would get dull, if a man had to choose between a closet full of dark or light, he's better off with dark.

My dark coats probably outnumber the ligher ones around 2 to1.

100% agreed. Folks, this is a good example of an iGent-distilled "rule" that is a good rule.
post #126 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If there is a "rule" regarding jacket & trou, it is that there must be tonal contrast. So, dark coat, light pents. And vice versa. since dark coats tend to outnumber light ones, light pents are more useful.

I would also say that while wearing nothing but dark coats would get dull, if a man had to choose between a closet full of dark or light, he's better off with dark.

My dark coats probably outnumber the ligher ones around 2 to1.

Good rule of thumb. But you can have other kinds of contrast than just tonal. Example: dark blue velvet jacket with barathea black wool trouser at night.
post #127 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Good rule of thumb. But you can have other kinds of contrast than just tonal. Example: dark blue velvet jacket with barathea black wool trouser at night.
YOU might wear this but I would not.
post #128 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Navy blazer, mid-grey trou. Navy blazer, cream/buff trou or chinos. Morning dress. The stroller. I'm certainly not doubting that you look smashing in your dark brown cords. I have some myself that I wear on weekends. I'm referring just to the standard odd jacket/trouser outfits that have been worn consistently for decades. I'm open to suggestions for other combinations as being classic. Is a camel hair odd jacket really a classic? To me it looks like a fabric for overcoats. I usually see it as an odd jacket only in Jack Victor ads. Am I crazy?

Naturally the blazer is going to have lighter trousers, as it's so dark. I wouldn't read too much into that.

Camel hair seems to be out of fashion, but I imagine there's a reason you still see 'em.

Always opting for lighter trousers seems very limiting. An outfit where the overall effect is dark -- say medium brown coat with dark brown cords -- can make for a very rich look.

Aside from that, some guys' complexions benefit from a very light coat.
post #129 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

100% agreed. Folks, this is a good example of an iGent-distilled "rule" that is a good rule.
I would not call this an iGent rule. First, it's just common sense, second, it's been practiced this way forever. even my mother was able to explain to me years ago that you don't wear dark gray with a blazer. (This being California, the correct choice was always khaki.)
post #130 of 301
F
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

YOU might wear this but I would not.

Fair enough, but the dark velvet smoking jacket with tux trousers is a "classic". It's really an ad hoc solution to the problem of wanting a different jacket to smoke in, which then must be dark so as not to get stained by ashes, but still, it's been acceptable in homey black tie situations for a long time. I accept your general principle, just trying to play devils advocate. But yes, I would wear that.
post #131 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I would not call this an iGent rule. First, it's just common sense, second, it's been practiced this way forever. even my mother was able to explain to me years ago that you don't wear dark gray with a blazer. (This being California, the correct choice was always khaki.)

Oh, I agree it's common sense. But do you think it would pass the Sator test? He'd argue that rule has never been stated anywhere in any official capacity and he'd find random historical examples showing it wasn't always practiced.
post #132 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If there is a "rule" regarding jacket & trou, it is that there must be tonal contrast. So, dark coat, light pents. And vice versa. since dark coats tend to outnumber light ones, light pents are more useful.

I would also say that while wearing nothing but dark coats would get dull, if a man had to choose between a closet full of dark or light, he's better off with dark.

My dark coats probably outnumber the ligher ones around 2 to1.

So if I understand correctly - there are two different underpinnings for the drak jacket/light pants "rule" - one is aesthetic (having contrast - colour or pattern or texture) and the second is practical (based on what is found in the closet). I personally find it useful to break it down that far because the practical dimension may not apply to everyone (since it is based on what is in each person's closet) whereas the aesthetic element is more universal and hence more likely to resul tin a fashion disaster.

would another example be the no mixing black and brown rule?
post #133 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Oh, I agree it's common sense. But do you think it would pass the Sator test? He'd argue that rule has never been stated anywhere in any official capacity and he'd find random historical examples showing it wasn't always practiced.
Sator stopped making sense to me around four years ago. Before that he was rather rational and even pleasant.
post #134 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Good rule of thumb. But you can have other kinds of contrast than just tonal. Example: dark blue velvet jacket with barathea black wool trouser at night.

I'd be tempted to wear black watch trou with that.

You're pushing at the boundaries here. It could spectacular, or fail dismally.

I have seen some very nice Velvet DJ's over the years. It works and it has form.

You could also substitute a very fine wale cord for the velvet. I've seen that done too.
post #135 of 301
BW is another good option. I have a pair in the works. On Patrick Johnson's site their used to be a good pic of exactly this. Might still be there.
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