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The Great Navy Blazer Conundrum - Page 16

post #226 of 231

Since you went pedantic. biggrin.gif 

You assume that every conservative office is the same and you ignored my nationality. It's logical to assume that a conservative office would be more prone to summery details if it's based on a hotter country and, since I'm from Brazil, my standard of conservative office would follow the logic that I just exposed.

But, eh, I wasn't following that logic, so your comment was justified. Nice intellectual exercise.

post #227 of 231
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

I'm considering getting a navy sport coat in Minnis Fresco with smoked MOP buttons and patch pockets. My question is regarding the breast pocket. Should that be a patch pocket too?

Entirely personal choice, but I'd say go for it. I prefer patch pockets on any odd jacket that is not double breasted.
post #228 of 231

I thought I would add to this thread, rather than make a new one.


I have blazers for summer and winter.  


I'm looking for a versatile option for much of the year.  Yes, I know, there is no 'four season' cloth.  But I run hot.  London summers and winters are mild (average high in the summer low 70s).


Unsurprisingly, fresco wins much acclaim to this end (see below).  My question concerns trousers:


  • Would mid-weight gray flannels look 'off' with a fresco jacket?  I don't think so from comparing the texture, but would people find this so (given the associations of fresco with the summer and flannel with the winter)?  What about in the heavier weight recommended by vox?


  • If so, what would people recommend for colder days? Fresco trousers on a fresh spring morning would be a bit nippy.




Manton recommends 10 oz fresco:  


Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Fans of the original BlazerSuitâ„¢ -- and I know you are legion -- will be excited to know that its sibling has arrived. Recall that the original was 10 ounce fresco, a perfect "tween" suit: not the thing for the heat of summer or the dead of winter, but a go-anywhere garment for other times of the year.



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Behold! The most versatile garment ever conceived. The amazing, electrified, patented BlazerSuit (TM).

10 ounce fresco: about the most versatile cloth there is. Too hot for the real roaster days, but great for anything else. Hard wearing and a good traveller.

3 roll 2, 3 open patch pockets, swelled edges, brown horn buttons. Avoids the ubiquity of brass buttons. Horn makes the coat wearable as part of a suit. Brown makes it wearable as an odd jacket. Patch pockets and swelled edges dress it down a little further, but not so much that it does not work as a suit. Not a dinner party suit, maybe not even a Big Meeting suit, but wearable in almost any other circumstance.

This one suit is great for travel. You can wear the jacket on the plane with chinos. Wear the suit for business and for evenings out. Bring decent odd trousers for social events. Cut your packing time in half!

CBD, with a worker bee red tie and black belt (& shoes):

Slightly more elegant: wine tie and brown belt (& shoes):

Swap out matching trousers for light gray (and tan belt & shoes) and you get CSD (Conservative Social Dress):

Yellow tie, tan belt & shoes: spring summer business attire when strict attention to CBD is not required:

Swap in cream gab trousers and you are ready for the yacht club:

The classic California Tux configuration: blazer, khakis, BD shirt, sock tie:

All are welcome to copy The Amazing BlazerSuit (TM), but royalities on the intellectual property are payable to me via PM.


Vox recommends 13/14 oz fresco:


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post

Ha! Well, many of you guys had your imaginations unleashed, but everything that you imagined was awful in conception. Truly.

I made it quite obvious what my objectives were, but here is a recap.

1. Something that could be used for travel but that would cut down on what needed to be packed. Exactly what the BlazerSuit accomplishes. But, I was going for a wider spread between formality and informality.

2. The 13/14 oz fresco is a perfect traveling fabric. It resists wrinkling, and hangs out very well. Moreover, it's hopsack-y makeup is perfect for passing as a navy blazer.

3. I'm not as temperatures sensitive as many are, and can wear a wide variety of fabrics year round. The buggy lining can take this jacket into the summer for me...and the vest can take it into the winter.

4. With the vest, I have a bespoke-y looking suit that can be worn in social or work circumstances in which that is not an abrupt class challenge. I can even tuck the outpocket flaps in to make Mattypoo happy.

5. Without the vest, the suit can be a bit more CBD, especially without my usual ticket pocket. More politically mainstream...more lapel pin.

5. It's been a couple decades since I had a SB blazer with metal buttons. Now I have that, and I don't need to pack it seperately.

6. All the different button combinations are enough, for me at least, to alter the character of the suit or jacket in interesting ways.

The main construction challenge, which was not as simple as you might assume, was in keeping the precision of fit and avoiding buttons that flop around. There is also the issue of comfort in how the buttons are backed, and trying to maximize the durability of the transitional elements in daily use.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

- B


post #229 of 231

I'm not sure whether this thread is still active or not.  In any event, please find below my belated contribution on the topic.  


As you can see from the images below I'm a fan of polished/shiny buttons, which I appreciate is not everyone's "cup of tea".  In this case, 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons.  


Shortly, I intend moving the buttons (4-hole polsihed gold-toned) from my new navy blue blazer (pictured below) onto my new black blazer (not pictured below) and replacing them with 4-hole polished .925 silver buttons, which I had custom made recently.  


As many of you who are James Bond movie fans will know, the combination of a navy blue blazer and 4-hole polished silver-toned buttons was famously worn by Roger Moore's James Bond character in the movie "Moonraker".  


Moore's James Bond character followed the precedent set by Sean Connery's character in the original "Dr No" movie, albeit I think the later's blazer buttons may have been 2-holed and in the more traditional polished brass/gold-toned alloy coloured metal.


P.S. This post is a continuation of a series of posts on the Hong Kong Tailors thread.





Edited by BespokeKiwi - 5/11/14 at 3:19pm
post #230 of 231
Has anyone ever used nailhead as a blazer fabric? I have started seeing quite a few pop up for the spring with patch pockets. But, I always saw this more as a suiting fabric…
post #231 of 231
I'd consider nailhead a suiting fabric generally. I tend to think that some fabrics make for much better blazers than others, but as long as it's clearly designed as a blazer (metal, horn or smoked MOP buttons that don't match the jacket plus patch pockets), I'm not interested in being too much of a stickler. Others may feel differently. Could be worth asking about in the Unfunded Liabilities thread too.
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