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The Great Navy Blazer Conundrum - Page 16

post #226 of 241

Since you went pedantic. biggrin.gif 

You assume that every conservative office is the same and you ignored my nationality. It's logical to assume that a conservative office would be more prone to summery details if it's based on a hotter country and, since I'm from Brazil, my standard of conservative office would follow the logic that I just exposed.

But, eh, I wasn't following that logic, so your comment was justified. Nice intellectual exercise.

post #227 of 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

I'm considering getting a navy sport coat in Minnis Fresco with smoked MOP buttons and patch pockets. My question is regarding the breast pocket. Should that be a patch pocket too?

Entirely personal choice, but I'd say go for it. I prefer patch pockets on any odd jacket that is not double breasted.
post #228 of 241

I thought I would add to this thread, rather than make a new one.

 

I have blazers for summer and winter.  

 

I'm looking for a versatile option for much of the year.  Yes, I know, there is no 'four season' cloth.  But I run hot.  London summers and winters are mild (average high in the summer low 70s).

 

Unsurprisingly, fresco wins much acclaim to this end (see below).  My question concerns trousers:

 

  • Would mid-weight gray flannels look 'off' with a fresco jacket?  I don't think so from comparing the texture, but would people find this so (given the associations of fresco with the summer and flannel with the winter)?  What about in the heavier weight recommended by vox?

 

  • If so, what would people recommend for colder days? Fresco trousers on a fresh spring morning would be a bit nippy.

 

..........

 

Manton recommends 10 oz fresco:  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Fans of the original BlazerSuitâ„¢ -- and I know you are legion -- will be excited to know that its sibling has arrived. Recall that the original was 10 ounce fresco, a perfect "tween" suit: not the thing for the heat of summer or the dead of winter, but a go-anywhere garment for other times of the year.

...
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Behold! The most versatile garment ever conceived. The amazing, electrified, patented BlazerSuit (TM).

10 ounce fresco: about the most versatile cloth there is. Too hot for the real roaster days, but great for anything else. Hard wearing and a good traveller.

3 roll 2, 3 open patch pockets, swelled edges, brown horn buttons. Avoids the ubiquity of brass buttons. Horn makes the coat wearable as part of a suit. Brown makes it wearable as an odd jacket. Patch pockets and swelled edges dress it down a little further, but not so much that it does not work as a suit. Not a dinner party suit, maybe not even a Big Meeting suit, but wearable in almost any other circumstance.

This one suit is great for travel. You can wear the jacket on the plane with chinos. Wear the suit for business and for evenings out. Bring decent odd trousers for social events. Cut your packing time in half!

CBD, with a worker bee red tie and black belt (& shoes):



Slightly more elegant: wine tie and brown belt (& shoes):



Swap out matching trousers for light gray (and tan belt & shoes) and you get CSD (Conservative Social Dress):



Yellow tie, tan belt & shoes: spring summer business attire when strict attention to CBD is not required:



Swap in cream gab trousers and you are ready for the yacht club:



The classic California Tux configuration: blazer, khakis, BD shirt, sock tie:



All are welcome to copy The Amazing BlazerSuit (TM), but royalities on the intellectual property are payable to me via PM.
 

 

Vox recommends 13/14 oz fresco:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post

Ha! Well, many of you guys had your imaginations unleashed, but everything that you imagined was awful in conception. Truly.

I made it quite obvious what my objectives were, but here is a recap.

1. Something that could be used for travel but that would cut down on what needed to be packed. Exactly what the BlazerSuit accomplishes. But, I was going for a wider spread between formality and informality.

2. The 13/14 oz fresco is a perfect traveling fabric. It resists wrinkling, and hangs out very well. Moreover, it's hopsack-y makeup is perfect for passing as a navy blazer.

3. I'm not as temperatures sensitive as many are, and can wear a wide variety of fabrics year round. The buggy lining can take this jacket into the summer for me...and the vest can take it into the winter.

4. With the vest, I have a bespoke-y looking suit that can be worn in social or work circumstances in which that is not an abrupt class challenge. I can even tuck the outpocket flaps in to make Mattypoo happy.

5. Without the vest, the suit can be a bit more CBD, especially without my usual ticket pocket. More politically mainstream...more lapel pin.

5. It's been a couple decades since I had a SB blazer with metal buttons. Now I have that, and I don't need to pack it seperately.

6. All the different button combinations are enough, for me at least, to alter the character of the suit or jacket in interesting ways.

The main construction challenge, which was not as simple as you might assume, was in keeping the precision of fit and avoiding buttons that flop around. There is also the issue of comfort in how the buttons are backed, and trying to maximize the durability of the transitional elements in daily use.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.


- B

 

post #229 of 241

I'm not sure whether this thread is still active or not.  In any event, please find below my belated contribution on the topic.  

 

As you can see from the images below I'm a fan of polished/shiny buttons, which I appreciate is not everyone's "cup of tea".  In this case, 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons.  

 

Shortly, I intend moving the buttons (4-hole polsihed gold-toned) from my new navy blue blazer (pictured below) onto my new black blazer (not pictured below) and replacing them with 4-hole polished .925 silver buttons, which I had custom made recently.  

 

As many of you who are James Bond movie fans will know, the combination of a navy blue blazer and 4-hole polished silver-toned buttons was famously worn by Roger Moore's James Bond character in the movie "Moonraker".  

 

Moore's James Bond character followed the precedent set by Sean Connery's character in the original "Dr No" movie, albeit I think the later's blazer buttons may have been 2-holed and in the more traditional polished brass/gold-toned alloy coloured metal.

 

P.S. This post is a continuation of a series of posts on the Hong Kong Tailors thread.

 

 

 

 


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 5/11/14 at 3:19pm
post #230 of 241
Has anyone ever used nailhead as a blazer fabric? I have started seeing quite a few pop up for the spring with patch pockets. But, I always saw this more as a suiting fabric…
post #231 of 241
I'd consider nailhead a suiting fabric generally. I tend to think that some fabrics make for much better blazers than others, but as long as it's clearly designed as a blazer (metal, horn or smoked MOP buttons that don't match the jacket plus patch pockets), I'm not interested in being too much of a stickler. Others may feel differently. Could be worth asking about in the Unfunded Liabilities thread too.
post #232 of 241
What about navy Birdseye (for SC not blazer)? I think it'd make a nice patched unlined SC.
post #233 of 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

What about navy Birdseye (for SC not blazer)? I think it'd make a nice patched unlined SC.

Not my first choice personally, but can be done. I believe @in stitches has one, but could be misremembering.
post #234 of 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Not my first choice personally, but can be done. I believe @in stitches has one, but could be misremembering.

Yes thats correct, I have one. Its an Isaia for SFA and I like it a lot. Its about as formal a navy SC as you can get. Which of course limits its use to a degree, but I find it very useful when I am going for a SC and tie and want something very crisp and formal leaning but not quite a full suit.
post #235 of 241

 

@Isolation, this here is a nice bird's eye done up as a db jacket.  Lighter than navy blue.  I think what makes it work (not confused as suiting) is that it has a ton of texture (50cashmere/50silk).

post #236 of 241

Earlier in this thread, there were some comments about brass buttons on blazers where a few people said no to them.  Conversely, I wouldn't wear a blue blazer without them.  That's the correct and traditional look.  Now, for me, where I used to like the many brass buttoned double breasted blazers, I now longer wear that style.  I have two blazers currently, a hopsack 2-button and a merino 2-button.  I wear one of those more often than anything else when it comes to a sports coat.  However, I like them better with khakis than the gray flannel slacks I own.  Always with penny loafers or Topsiders.

post #237 of 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG123 View Post
 

Earlier in this thread, there were some comments about brass buttons on blazers where a few people said no to them.  Conversely, I wouldn't wear a blue blazer without them.  That's the correct and traditional look.  Now, for me, where I used to like the many brass buttoned double breasted blazers, I now longer wear that style.  I have two blazers currently, a hopsack 2-button and a merino 2-button.  I wear one of those more often than anything else when it comes to a sports coat.  However, I like them better with khakis than the gray flannel slacks I own.  Always with penny loafers or Topsiders.

Many feel the metal blazers are old-fashioned (I prefer to think of them as traditional).  No reason not to own either a traditional blazer with metal buttons, or a blue odd jacket with pearl or brown depending upon your personal style and preferences.  I'd think quite a few guys have both.

post #238 of 241
I bought a set of buttons for that but ended up decided against it. There's too much baggage in them. I already get told captain jokes, don't need to help it. I do think it's probably regional though. You just rarely see anyone with them normally here.

Plus I like MoPs anyway,
post #239 of 241

Brown horn is the most discreet.  MOP somewhere in the middle (I've got a coat with pearl buttons that can appear silvery in some lighting), then metal.  I like them all and in NE of the US none raise any eyebrows or cause others to comment.

 

I'd be curious to know how many blue jackets some posters have.  I'd think most have at least two for different times of year.

post #240 of 241

Since this thread has already been necro-bumped, I just visited Mr. Ned yesterday for the first time to get my first tailored piece of custom clothing (besides shirts which I recently also started doing about a month ago at Cego).

 

That piece of clothing is a navy blazer.

 

One interesting point of note is that he showed me two basic blazer navy fabrics he typically uses one being a hopsack, I believe, and I told him that I was looking for "serge" given that I heard that was the traditional worsted fabric for blazers and I wasn't really looking for a hopsack. He told me that a serge fabric would be a 1 season weight but showed me some anyway. I kind of agreed and just ignored the advice I heard online after seeing the serges he showed me and picked the non-hopsack blazer fabric he initially pulled out. It was just a basic dark navy merino wool.

 

When I got home I looked closely at the swatch he gave me and I realized, serge must mean two different things. This fabric I picked is definitely a serge in the sense it is a twill with diagonal bottom left to top right ribbing with bottom right to top left ribbing on the reverse. But apparently serge to a tailor means some specific heavy, one season cloth and not just this twill weave of navy merino wool.

 

Anyway I'm excited for the fittings

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