Originally Posted by unbelragazzo
Agreed. The only thing I've heard people say is that his style is not really Neapolitan, but instead more English. Not that he would disagree, he calls it the "London House" after all.
Well, "Neapolitan" does not have the clear-cut meaning we pretend it does on the internet. Naples, like anywhere else, is subject to trend and fashion. The prevailing look has fluctuated over the decades there. So, in that sense, it is true: Rubinacci is not very "Neapolitan" because he does not do what is fashionable at this moment, which is a sort of cartoon of Neapolitan styling flourishes. Why? Because that's what they've become known for internationally and the local culture is attempting to latch onto that fashionability. I really dislike it, no offense to anybody.
What Rubinacci does
do is a cut and style that has barely changed in over eighty years. You can tell by looking at the old vintage pieces. They are only English-inspired in the sense that anything anybody made eighty years ago had better have been English-inspired to be considered of any taste. So current talk of the Rubinacci style being more English than Neapolitan seems extremely odd to me. Any
style of suit or jacket with a real claim to historical Neapolitan heritage is going to be English-inspired because the English dominated men's fashion for the first half of the twentieth century.
A piece of Neapolitan tailoring that does not claim English influence is thus likely of much, much more recent origin.