Originally Posted by Despos
Did you say that your tailor may not see what you see in pictures and this could cause a disparity of understanding?
Not just, no. I was quite explicit that, no matter how hard you try to convey (through whatever means--pictures, words, etc.) and no matter how hard your tailor is willing to listen, at the end of the day, the message sent plus the resulting execution are unlikely to be what you hoped for when asking your tailor to do something different from what is ingrained in his practice or taste. You are a world-class tailor and one of the best in this country, yet you could not replicate exactly what another tailor does. Neither could another perfectly duplicate your work. It's not that you don't possess the technical know-how, but because of everything from the air you breathe, to the stylistic sensibilities embedded in you, to the tastes of your clientele, which you have naturally acclimated to in time and which reinforce your own taste. You admirably point out that you are always learning. Well, that couldn't be true if certain things didn't remain foreign to you. That must be true of all tailors. And learning has a curve.
In this case, we are talking about a stylistic feature (lapel belly) that connects to yet other aesthetic properties, and also structural, functional considerations. Hence, it is a very involved adjustment--certainly more that most clients are aware of. So, even if your tailor is able to give you exactly the belly you want, the connecting components (which you never thought to specify) may turn it into a different animal. My framed patch pockets are a good example. They are not what I expected, yet certainly what I asked for. The difference is that I knew that was the case and didn't fool myself into believing I was going to get a specific thing. Lapel belly is a much more nuanced, connected detail.
Other more experienced bespoke clients have shared the same approach and attitude here: you need to let go of the fantasy that you can design via your tailor. To the extent you try, like with my coat, you accept increasingly greater risk.
Originally Posted by recondite
The buttoning point should be your natural waist, unless you want a fashionable garment that will look dated and become costume in the next 18 months. Today's buttoning point fashion is hideously high and looks ill fitted, not fashionable or stylish to my eye.
The width of peak lapels should be determined by first the distance between edge of the should and the neck of the wearer and secondly by the height of the gorge, which itself is aesthetic and determined by the current fashion, your tailor, your tastes, or a combination of all three. Typically the lower the gorge, the narrower the peak lapel. The peak lapel cuts from most of what was popular in the 30's and 40's, are still aesthetically pleasing today. Even some of the 1980's to mid-1990's cuts look great if they avoided such anachronisms as overly padded shoulders, etc. In fact some of the best 1990's cuts look like they came right out of a 1940's pattern book, and hence timeless.
The curve is aesthetic and will be determined last as it is a function of both the buttoning point and gorge height, such that a double breasted cut will look best with a different curve than a SB cut. Spoo's lapels, as pictured above, might look better on a DB cut for instance.
All of the Paul Stuart and Phineas Cole jackets pictured above are already looking a bit dated for what it's worth.