Originally Posted by unbelragazzo
Mr. Field is fantastic, you are in very good hands.
Foo - suppose you like high peak lapels. Does this mean you should have a much longer jacket with peaks? Tolerate a longer line above than below the button as a necessary consequence of high peaks? Or do you view high peaks as fundamentally illegitimate?
No, the answer is that "high" is a relative term. An inch from your shoulder might make the peaks very high, where as it might be only a centimeter for me since I'm very short. One of the main things that makes bespoke worthwhile is that everything can be scaled appropriately for you.
After the buttoning point is established, you can then determine how wide and long the lapels should be. If you like really high peaks, the tailor might need to adjust the width accordingly on your frame so the lapels are neither to squat or too skinny. And there is always the chance the sort of lapels you have in mind simply won't work on you. Like I said, bespoke is not about getting whatever you want. It's about getting things done as right as they can be. That's why RTW examples are such a terrible starting point for guidance.
I respect where Chris is coming from, as he's as excellent a tailor as any, but disagree very strongly with him on his advice--coming from a client point-of-view. Your tailor may be willing to study a million photos with you, but what will he walk away with exactly? You were looking at X, he thought he was looking at X, but he was really looking at Y. You may spend a million hours on Styleforum learning to better articulate what you want, but how will he interpret it and then execute it? What if he's never done the thing you're asking for? What if it looks easier than it really is? Everything can go badly very quickly. Then, you have no one to blame but yourself.
In my account of ordering my overcoat from Rubinacci, I emphasized my trepidation in asking them to do so many things in a precise way I envisioned. It took hours batting the idea around. And guess what--I love what I got, but it is not nearly 100% of what I imagined. More importantly, I went into it understanding I was going at my own risk, not working with the tailor as I usually should.