Let's speak high end suits here

post #31 of 36

1/26/13 at 11:11am

TonyThe Tailor

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Millerp

OK. Fair enough. I asked a salesman at the NYC store whether anyone could get a custom made suit
like Oxxford did for George W. Bush. He laughed and said something like: "We give special attention to VIPs".

All of my clients are VIPs to me

In the past year my Oxxford business and my house MTM business has doubled mostly because people are looking for quality AND fit. My in house Bespoke could double, but I have a hard time finding sewers where I am located so I can only take on so much.

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post #32 of 36

1/26/13 at 1:37pm

Thread Starter

Scabal Fanatic

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Liquidus

Why don't you start by sharing your experiences?

Well, there are my experiences. I recently got a bespoke sport jacket made of VBC Super 130, half-canvassed. I also got a pair of trousers also VBC Super 130, all in navy blue, (revenge).

Also, I got 4 bespoke dress shirts 110 thread, 2-ply, Cotonificio Albini.

In a couple of months, I'm going to get a 3 piece suit (charcoal), Scabal Super 150, fully canvassed, as part of my new higher end wardrobe. When winter comes, I'll get myself a nice wool trench coat, also bespoke from a respectable mill (TBD).

Considering that I just stopped going into stores and got in tailoring my clothes, I find it a decent amount of items.

Also getting a pair of C&J Lonsdale, black when going to NYC. Will switch between those and my AE Fifth Avenue.

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post #33 of 36

1/26/13 at 1:55pm

JubeiSpiegel

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This thread is about to get good, I can feel it...

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post #34 of 36

1/26/13 at 5:12pm

jeff13007

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What you get at the end is more complicated, possibly more tuned, MTM--not bespoke.
Have you inspected an Oxxford garment? Technically, they may have more hand-stitching than a Kiton or Borrelli. But the finishing and fineness of that hand-stitching tends to be markedly inferior. So, which is "better?" I think it's an academic, useless question. The issue is going to be what fits you better and what style you prefer. Who cares which factory-made suit has marginally more hand-stitching?

If you really want to reap the benefits of a handmade product, you'll need to go bespoke. And that's why we stopped talking much about these high-end MTM products years ago. Everyone who could afford them realized they are a bad deal and there is far better stuff out there.

I agree with you on your oxxford point Foo, and yes i have inspected an oxxford garment, He was just saying they were the best "American RTW" i was just agreeing and adding on a quote i remembered reading a while back, i never said oxxford was better than Kiton of Borrelli. As for your second point you are also correct but when you use the term "bespoke" its very misleading. You on one hand use one of the greatest tailors on earth with suits costing north of what Brioni or Kiton would cost so of course you would expect it to be better. On the other hand majority of the people here who talk about "bespoke" use tailors who are far inferior to said brands but take it as because they are "bespoke" they are immediately superior to any factory produced brand which is just not the case, which is why a thread like this might make sense because these brands are available for steep discount at times and lets be honest if you can find a Brioni suit that you can make fit you without major surgery for $1500-$2000 which is not really that much of a stretch, then there is NO WAY IN HELL you are finding "bespoke" in that price range that can even come close to the fabric quality, and handwork of Brioni.

P.S I have used both Bespoke: Steed, NSM (dunno if this one is considered true bespoke as I'm not sure if Mina herself is making the pattern) as well as high end MTM, and yes Bespoke will give you a better fit but for someone like myself its only marginal as RTW already fits me pretty well so MTM using the same block patterns does the same. Most importantly though is that i had access to these tailors because i was living in NYC, now that I'm in Singapore i don't but i still do have access to Kiton and Brioni which would be my only go to if i wanted something on that level
Edited by jeff13007 - 1/26/13 at 5:26pm

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post #35 of 36

1/26/13 at 5:29pm

chogall

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Scabal Fanatic

Well, there are my experiences. I recently got a bespoke sport jacket made of VBC Super 130, half-canvassed. I also got a pair of trousers also VBC Super 130, all in navy blue, (revenge).

Also, I got 4 bespoke dress shirts 110 thread, 2-ply, Cotonificio Albini.

In a couple of months, I'm going to get a 3 piece suit (charcoal), Scabal Super 150, fully canvassed, as part of my new higher end wardrobe. When winter comes, I'll get myself a nice wool trench coat, also bespoke from a respectable mill (TBD).

Considering that I just stopped going into stores and got in tailoring my clothes, I find it a decent amount of items.

Also getting a pair of C&J Lonsdale, black when going to NYC. Will switch between those and my AE Fifth Avenue.

pix or it didnt happen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Can you covert that into American? I'm 5 feet and 4 inches. I'd convert it myself, but as an American I feel too lazy and entitled.

its not short when u r taller than snooki in heels.

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post #36 of 36

1/26/13 at 5:33pm