Originally Posted by Millerp
Available OTR, MTM and for certain celebrities or VIPs they will do bespoke.
This is not really true. I was a "bespoke" client of Oxxford before switching to Rubinacci. And I was definitely not a celebrity. Anybody can do it--you just have to ask.
Moreover, it's not really bespoke. It is really MTM, but with a basted fitting. As in MTM, someone takes your measurements, sends them somewhere else, and there a pattern is generated based off of a template. They put together a basted try-on for you and send it to the store you ordered the suit from. The salesperson or alterations tailor at that shop then notes tweaks to the suit in basted form and sends them back to the factory in Chicago, along with the suit. The factory interprets the tweaks and alters the suit, possibly altering your pattern itself.
The pattern cannot be fine-tuned as in proper bespoke because the person fitting you is not the person altering the pattern. Theoretically, you can do as I did, and go directly to the factory to be fitted by Rocco, their tailoring director. However, he will just do as a salesperson at a shop would do, and pass his notes onto someone else who will alter the pattern. I'm not sure how much is done by hand versus simply tweaked on the computer. So, the benefit of seeing Rocco himself is limited. Moreover, it might even be a detriment. He's not really in the daily business of fitting individuals, so it's not his forte (I know this firsthand). A skilled, experienced salesperson used to dealing with Oxxford could be a better fitter.
What you get at the end is more complicated, possibly more tuned, MTM--not bespoke.
Originally Posted by jeff13007
Oh hands down, i remember reading a quote somewhere from an interview with the head of Borrelli (i think) and he was asked if his was the best suits in the world and he answered they were the 2nd best and when asked who was the best he responded "oxxford". Their shirts were for a while made in the Kiton factory if I'm not mistaken as well.
Have you inspected an Oxxford garment? Technically, they may have more hand-stitching than a Kiton or Borrelli. But the finishing and fineness of that hand-stitching tends to be markedly inferior. So, which is "better?" I think it's an academic, useless question. The issue is going to be what fits you better and what style you prefer. Who cares which factory-made suit has marginally more hand-stitching?
If you really want to reap the benefits of a handmade product, you'll need to go bespoke. And that's why we stopped talking much about these high-end MTM products years ago. Everyone who could afford them realized they are a bad deal and there is far better stuff out there.