or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Let's speak high end suits here
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Let's speak high end suits here - Page 2

post #16 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by norcaltransplant View Post

This really reflects a deterioration in the content of the forum. If want to focus on the discussion of bespoke and higher-end MTM, I suggest the London Lounge. Alternatively, you can search the archives of the forum for higher end RTW. For example, spend some time scanning the Belvest thread. Not quite in price range of Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, etc. but a very respectable maker, and, IMO, more stylistically interesting from the likes of Zegna.

 

Threads about specific clothing brands and makers are still alive.  And the cloth thread is still alive as well.

post #17 of 36
But the brand threads kind of suck. There is only so much I care to read about SuitSupply.
post #18 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


As to the OP: did you see my recent thread detailing my new bespoke overcoat? If you are genuinely interested in finely tailored goods, take a look. I included a lot of eye candy.

 

It's definitely a cool coat, and I didn't want to rain on the parade in your thread, but I think it makes you look incredibly short.

post #19 of 36
I am incredibly short.
post #20 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I am incredibly short.

lol8[1].gif Fair enough!

post #21 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But the brand threads kind of suck. There is only so much I care to read about SuitSupply.

 

The upside of those brand threads is that they come with brightly labeled minefields to read or to avoid.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I am incredibly short.

 

You are not incredibly short.  Putin, Sarko, Bunga Bunga are all between 160-170cm. 

 

Or you meant the other body measurement...

post #22 of 36
Can you covert that into American? I'm 5 feet and 4 inches. I'd convert it myself, but as an American I feel too lazy and entitled.
post #23 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

Why don't you start by sharing your experiences?

+1

So far the OP has not contributed anything whatever. Does he even have any suits matching the descriptor he uses I wonder?
post #24 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Can you covert that into American? I'm 5 feet and 4 inches. I'd convert it myself, but as an American I feel too lazy and entitled.

If my mental arithmetic is correct, that means that you are about 162cm tall.

Berlusconi is 165cm tall and Putin and Sarkozy are 169-170cm tall, so you're a bit under them (about an inch less than Berlo and 3-3.5inches less than Sarko and Putin).
post #25 of 36
I think most would agree that the highest quality US factory made suit brand is Oxxford.
Available OTR, MTM and for certain celebrities or VIPs they will do bespoke.
post #26 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millerp View Post

I think most would agree that the highest quality US factory made suit brand is Oxxford.
Available OTR, MTM and for certain celebrities or VIPs they will do bespoke.

Oh hands down, i remember reading a quote somewhere from an interview with the head of Borrelli (i think) and he was asked if his was the best suits in the world and he answered they were the 2nd best and when asked who was the best he responded "oxxford". Their shirts were for a while made in the Kiton factory if I'm not mistaken as well.
post #27 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millerp View Post

Available OTR, MTM and for certain celebrities or VIPs they will do bespoke.

This is not really true. I was a "bespoke" client of Oxxford before switching to Rubinacci. And I was definitely not a celebrity. Anybody can do it--you just have to ask.

Moreover, it's not really bespoke. It is really MTM, but with a basted fitting. As in MTM, someone takes your measurements, sends them somewhere else, and there a pattern is generated based off of a template. They put together a basted try-on for you and send it to the store you ordered the suit from. The salesperson or alterations tailor at that shop then notes tweaks to the suit in basted form and sends them back to the factory in Chicago, along with the suit. The factory interprets the tweaks and alters the suit, possibly altering your pattern itself.

The pattern cannot be fine-tuned as in proper bespoke because the person fitting you is not the person altering the pattern. Theoretically, you can do as I did, and go directly to the factory to be fitted by Rocco, their tailoring director. However, he will just do as a salesperson at a shop would do, and pass his notes onto someone else who will alter the pattern. I'm not sure how much is done by hand versus simply tweaked on the computer. So, the benefit of seeing Rocco himself is limited. Moreover, it might even be a detriment. He's not really in the daily business of fitting individuals, so it's not his forte (I know this firsthand). A skilled, experienced salesperson used to dealing with Oxxford could be a better fitter.

What you get at the end is more complicated, possibly more tuned, MTM--not bespoke.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

Oh hands down, i remember reading a quote somewhere from an interview with the head of Borrelli (i think) and he was asked if his was the best suits in the world and he answered they were the 2nd best and when asked who was the best he responded "oxxford". Their shirts were for a while made in the Kiton factory if I'm not mistaken as well.

Have you inspected an Oxxford garment? Technically, they may have more hand-stitching than a Kiton or Borrelli. But the finishing and fineness of that hand-stitching tends to be markedly inferior. So, which is "better?" I think it's an academic, useless question. The issue is going to be what fits you better and what style you prefer. Who cares which factory-made suit has marginally more hand-stitching?

If you really want to reap the benefits of a handmade product, you'll need to go bespoke. And that's why we stopped talking much about these high-end MTM products years ago. Everyone who could afford them realized they are a bad deal and there is far better stuff out there.
post #28 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But the brand threads kind of suck. There is only so much I care to read about SuitSupply.


+1000 BTW Foo, the wallet is exceptional.

post #29 of 36
Quote:
What you get at the end is more complicated, possibly more tuned, MTM--not bespoke.

OK. Fair enough. I asked a salesman at the NYC store whether anyone could get a custom made suit
like Oxxford did for George W. Bush. He laughed and said something like: "We give special attention to VIPs".
post #30 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millerp View Post

OK. Fair enough. I asked a salesman at the NYC store whether anyone could get a custom made suit
like Oxxford did for George W. Bush. He laughed and said something like: "We give special attention to VIPs".

Yeah, that's just talking themselves up. Ignore it.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Let's speak high end suits here