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Does Tom Ford do classic, or just trendy?

post #1 of 43
Thread Starter 

I'm going to be getting a MTM blazer for day and night wear in spring and summer. There is a Tom Ford store near me, so I'm considering going there.

 

I do find his style appealing, though I want a blazer that has a classic look (and will still look appropriate years from now).

 

I saw Skyfall, and I wasn't a fan of the Tom Ford "trendiness" that I saw with James Bond's clothes.

 

Does Tom Ford do classic, or just trendy?

post #2 of 43

If you're going to look at his 2013 collection I think it qualifies as "trendy".

post #3 of 43
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by junko View Post

If you're going to look at his 2013 collection I think it qualifies as "trendy".


So look for his 2012 and earlier blazers?

post #4 of 43
Yes, this year has really been a change for Tom Ford. A lot of what is in the store is still the classic stuff, though the fit has changed some. The suits have gotten fuller, the peak lapel has switched to notch with a lower gorge, and the overall silhouette has changed a bit.
post #5 of 43
They still carry "classic" models at the TF stores. But by classic i mean the TF that we have become accustomed to seeing which might not be considered "classic" in a general sense
post #6 of 43
Abit of a digging old threads... From what I have gathered, Wetherby cuts & Spencer cuts have been taken off the regular line...
post #7 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarks View Post

Abit of a digging old threads... From what I have gathered, Wetherby cuts & Spencer cuts have been taken off the regular line...

Not quite familiar with "wetherby" or "spencer" are those the Base A, B, F etc? those wide lapeled, ticket pocket classic tf look ones? It shouldn't really affect the OP as he is getting MTM anyway and I'm sure even if they don't stock it in RTW they will still have the pattern for the older models for MTM or MTO
post #8 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

Not quite familiar with "wetherby" or "spencer" are those the Base A, B, F etc? those wide lapeled, ticket pocket classic tf look ones? It shouldn't really affect the OP as he is getting MTM anyway and I'm sure even if they don't stock it in RTW they will still have the pattern for the older models for MTM or MTO

I got abit confused as well speaking to my SA. I first encountered the names when I was in UK.
I was just in conversation and was told Wetherby & Spencers have been taken off the regular line.

What's Base F? Are they the ones with big lapels and wide pants? I thought they were Wetherby....
Then again, a SA in UK said Tom Ford himself wears the Wetherby Base T cut. which has wider than usual lapels with single vent.
It is very confusing.

Anyway, I am not sure abt the remaining names (Windsor, Spencer, etc) in relation to the Bases.
Base A & T are the ones I still see. Base B, C & D are now pretty much non-existent in my area anyways. And Base F I have not seen yet. The new season O'Connor has no base in the inner labels - I was surprised when I couldn't find one.

My understanding is that discontinued cuts can't be ordered as MTO as well as MTM - so I was told.
I am in the mid discussion on doing another MTO - this time for a shawl collared Tux which is no longer showing on the MTO showbooks anymore. :/ Hopefully I will get some good news.
post #9 of 43
The O'Connor is the Skyfall cut. Looks like a BB Fitzgerald.
post #10 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarks View Post

I got abit confused as well speaking to my SA. I first encountered the names when I was in UK.
I was just in conversation and was told Wetherby & Spencers have been taken off the regular line.

What's Base F? Are they the ones with big lapels and wide pants? I thought they were Wetherby....
Then again, a SA in UK said Tom Ford himself wears the Wetherby Base T cut. which has wider than usual lapels with single vent.
It is very confusing.

Anyway, I am not sure abt the remaining names (Windsor, Spencer, etc) in relation to the Bases.
Base A & T are the ones I still see. Base B, C & D are now pretty much non-existent in my area anyways. And Base F I have not seen yet. The new season O'Connor has no base in the inner labels - I was surprised when I couldn't find one.

My understanding is that discontinued cuts can't be ordered as MTO as well as MTM - so I was told.
I am in the mid discussion on doing another MTO - this time for a shawl collared Tux which is no longer showing on the MTO showbooks anymore. :/ Hopefully I will get some good news.

Not quite sure about the pants because all i got was a blazer, but it seemed to be a slimmer fitting model I.E i had to go 50R with no alterations as opposed to my usual 48R with the sides taken in. I can't really remember if it was F or D though and the jacket is in my NYC place right now so i can't double check.

Im sure you can still order them MTO or MTM because its not like they are going to throw out all the old patterns. I don't think i even saw the MTO show books when i did mine, if i remember correctly i just picked the fabric and told them i wanted the "bog standard TF suit" which is essentially the Base A; wide lapels, ticket pocket, 5 button cuffs, etc. But just because what you are planning on doing doesn't show up in the books doesn't mean it can't be done, i mean thats the whole point of MTO right? Btw don't take this as fact but my SA told me that their MTO's are usually made with greater care and effort as opposed to their RTW not quite sure how that works exactly though.
post #11 of 43
Now I remember from a prev post that Base F does fits smaller.
I have a Base D sports jacket, half lined I can't tell between the fit between this and Base A.

When I placed my MTO, my SA specifically told me they don't do Wetherby or Spencer so not to choose from the showbook that has those styles.
In the showbook, there are different cuts you can choose from and dictate whether you want ticket pockets, patch pockets, notch or peak lapels specific to each cuts.
I remembered able to choose the vents as well, buttons, linings type and colours.

At the end of the day, based on my experience, one boutique can say one thing and another will contradict the previous.
I hope they can still do cuts that are phased out. It would be nice to be able to redo certain styles that you like.

I am not sure if MTO are done with greater care & effort but I sure hope so. I know MTM has to be done with greater care. Funny how my MTO blazer seemed to fit a little bit larger than my RTW blazer. Not sure why. Same exact style & fabric except different colour. The waist area and the arm sleeves are ever so slightly looser, visible to my eye and I can feel it when wearing it. I might have to send it for tailoring around the arm sleeves and waist. It shouldnt be though.
post #12 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarks View Post

Now I remember from a prev post that Base F does fits smaller.
I have a Base D sports jacket, half lined I can't tell between the fit between this and Base A.

When I placed my MTO, my SA specifically told me they don't do Wetherby or Spencer so not to choose from the showbook that has those styles.
In the showbook, there are different cuts you can choose from and dictate whether you want ticket pockets, patch pockets, notch or peak lapels specific to each cuts.
I remembered able to choose the vents as well, buttons, linings type and colours.

At the end of the day, based on my experience, one boutique can say one thing and another will contradict the previous.
I hope they can still do cuts that are phased out. It would be nice to be able to redo certain styles that you like.

I am not sure if MTO are done with greater care & effort but I sure hope so. I know MTM has to be done with greater care. Funny how my MTO blazer seemed to fit a little bit larger than my RTW blazer. Not sure why. Same exact style & fabric except different colour. The waist area and the arm sleeves are ever so slightly looser, visible to my eye and I can feel it when wearing it. I might have to send it for tailoring around the arm sleeves and waist. It shouldnt be though.[/quote]

I had an issue like this when i did MTO, on the RTW version of the style i was getting i needed to get the collar lowered to get rid of a collar roll, but for my MTO it wasn't necessary even though it was the exact same RTW model. Well hopefully you are able to get the style you want, honestly I'm not sure a big fan of their newer models, i wouldn't mind getting another Base A/weatherby/spencer or whatever their "classic" design is called, but if its discontinued i think I'm just gonna go back to Steed for my next suit.
post #13 of 43

considering Tom Ford?   classic?  snork[1].gif

-consider others.

just saying, the hype is not justified. many companies can give you better.

And if you went the route of buying fabric of your choice, and working with a quality tailor local to you, the results should be amazing.

print a few pictures of styles you like, select fabrics, and get measured.

you should end up with a full quality,MTM, blazer/SC. with all the options(Flannel,150's,pick stitching,silk lining,working cuffs,etc) for less than $1000.mwink[1].gif

 

so, you could get a "Personal Statement", or pay for a brand.

 

And before the brand whores burn me, i have owned Tom Ford,  Brioni, E.Zegna, Isaia. and others. now going the custom route for my next suit.
 

post #14 of 43
Quote:

Originally Posted by size 38R View Post

 

And if you went the route of buying fabric of your choice, and working with a quality tailor local to you, the results should be amazing.

 

This.  I don't understand people who pay $3,000+ for an OTR piece with a label when you can have a suit made for you by a skilled tailor for roughly the same price.  I realize that not everyone lives near a tailor who is capable of high quality work, but that's a lot of money to spend on something that isn't *exactly* what you want.

post #15 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by size 38R View Post

considering Tom Ford?   classic?  snork%5B1%5D.gif
-consider others.
just saying, the hype is not justified. many companies can give you better.
And if you went the route of buying fabric of your choice, and working with a quality tailor local to you, the results should be amazing.
print a few pictures of styles you like, select fabrics, and get measured.
you should end up with a full quality,MTM, blazer/SC. with all the options(Flannel,150's,pick stitching,silk lining,working cuffs,etc) for less than $1000.mwink%5B1%5D.gif

so, you could get a "Personal Statement", or pay for a brand.

And before the brand whores burn me, i have owned Tom Ford,  Brioni, E.Zegna, Isaia. and others. now going the custom route for my next suit.

 

I have no doubt that your statement is true. But then you of all people should know that any MTM/bespoke under $1000 will not be anywhere near the level of the aforementioned brands. For example to get near Brioni in terms of quality and fabric you are looking at closer to 3-4k which ill give to you is still less than the 5k+ starting price of Brioni but its far and away from "less than $1000"
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