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Foo shops for a Japanese knife - Page 35

post #511 of 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Anyone have tips on how to clean a leather strop? Been relying on my strop more, but the metals seem to build up quickly.

Not that I have done this, but if I had to clean a strop I'd sit down and alternate between massaging it with a conditioning oil, then rubbing a neodymium magnet over it. I would not use any type of soap since it would dry the leather out.

http://smile.amazon.com/Cube-Package-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B000UEBF00/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1456263165&sr=8-13&keywords=neodymium+magnet
post #512 of 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reggs View Post

Not that I have done this, but if I had to clean a strop I'd sit down and alternate between massaging it with a conditioning oil, then rubbing a neodymium magnet over it. I would not use any type of soap since it would dry the leather out.

http://smile.amazon.com/Cube-Package-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B000UEBF00/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1456263165&sr=8-13&keywords=neodymium+magnet

Huh, would that really work?

I just assumed I should clean it like I clean stones -- but scrubbing the surface with some kind of abrasive in order to remove the topmost layer.
post #513 of 554
If you've never handled a magnet like that, it's amazingly powerful. I'd be afraid of using some kind of abrasive because unlike stones, the density of leather is not uniform. I'd be afraid of creating a sweet spot in the leather.
post #514 of 554
post #515 of 554
Neodymiums are no joke. I have some smaller cylinder ones, ~7mm wide, and 3,mm tall that I used to attach grills to my DIY speakers (inserted one into the wood, covered with wood putty, sanded, covered in veneer and then the other glued into the wooden frame of the grill) and they work incredibly well for how small they were. That one is massive in comparison and will be ridiculously powerful. Read those reviews haha.
post #516 of 554
Somewhere, I think there is a thread you are supposed to post photos of those speakers in!
post #517 of 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by otc View Post

Somewhere, I think there is a thread you are supposed to post photos of those speakers in!

Haha, I built these speakers waaaay back in college. I soldered my own crossover and built the cabinet out of 1" MDF. Was a fun project. I've always though about building new floor standing cabinets with a really nice walnut veneer, but that's a back burner project. The speakers work great, just that after 10 years and a dozen moves are showing some wear and tear.
post #518 of 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteslashasian View Post

Read those reviews haha.

"magnet can lift 115lbs off the ground"

 

lol

post #519 of 554
finally realized that my knives are dull and that I have an angle cube to make them awesome again.

so it'll be the authentic replica Edge Pro + Chosera stones + angle cube to help.

on my Masamoto Gyuto, which angles should I try for? I'll aim for 50/50 (wife is a lefty), but i know Manton and the like try to work in 2 angles (one narrow, one super narrow), so what should I do?

second, I have an SOG Flash II pocket knife that I use for shit like opening boxes. It's old and dull A-F, but what angle should I put on it?
post #520 of 554
For the double bevel, generally you don't grind the super narrow angle very often... Just set it and then touch up the cutting edge as needed. Over time, you will grind away enough material that the edge will get "thick" and only then will you need to recut the narrow angle.

On the pocket knife, I'd just match the existing angle and see if you like it. Otherwise I wouldn't go lower than 20.
post #521 of 554
the pocket knife angle is fine, but it's chipped here and there and I was figuring giving it some real work and putting a new angle on. Maybe 20-25*. Would you suggest starting with the 140 ChefsKnivesToGo diamond grit for Edge Pro? Or will the EP220 be good enough to start?

and what about the gyuto? Start at 15* for the main working, then raise the arm slightly to get that second angle?
post #522 of 554
Now that I've got that 140... it is *rough*

If you have big chips, go for it (but be gentle, you can pull out diamonds if you are aggressive). If you are starting over, 20 might be a good place to go. If you find the edge is too weak, you can always just turn it down to 22.5 or 25 on the next sharpening as if you have a mini version of the back bevel you are trying to put on the gyuto. Might be able to find some other forum posts about that specific knife/steel and see a suggested edge.

As for the gyuto, I'd see what other forums are suggesting, . 15* with a 20* edge seems pretty standard, but a nice japanese blade might be able to take more.
post #523 of 554
This thread reminded me to order a knock-off edge pro. Thanks @otc and @gomestar!
post #524 of 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by otc View Post

Now that I've got that 140... it is *rough*

If you have big chips, go for it (but be gentle, you can pull out diamonds if you are aggressive). If you are starting over, 20 might be a good place to go. If you find the edge is too weak, you can always just turn it down to 22.5 or 25 on the next sharpening as if you have a mini version of the back bevel you are trying to put on the gyuto. Might be able to find some other forum posts about that specific knife/steel and see a suggested edge.

As for the gyuto, I'd see what other forums are suggesting, . 15* with a 20* edge seems pretty standard, but a nice japanese blade might be able to take more.

yeah, the 140 is rough. I'll start with the 220 and see how it goes. Never sharpened a thick blade like this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteslashasian View Post

This thread reminded me to order a knock-off edge pro. Thanks @otc and @gomestar!

don't forget!

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/chst6mmthfor.html
post #525 of 554
Or alternatively, an array of Boride CS-HD stones from moldshoptools.com and some edge pro blanks if you are cheap like me!

Whatever you do, throw away the stones that come with the knock off.

I've thought this all metal model might be decent:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015XKSNS2?psc=1

I wouldn't clamp the blade like they show in the picture...just use as a backing support like an edge pro. I think the picture also shows the pivot piece installed backwards...
but it can handle things like scissors, and doesn't have plastic bits to break.
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