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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 7

post #91 of 436
Awesome is the only possible or necessary word!
post #92 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

The actual opening seems small though. Is it?

I haven't compared, but keep in mind the scale of everything is different than on a suit or odd jacket. The actual pocket opening may be the same as on a normal patch pocket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

It is certainly weird. As far as I can tell, it is simply a standard welted flap pocket assembly built on a patch shaped piece of cloth with the whole thing then sewn on to the overcoat. While it looks different, it doesn't look particularly bad. The only thing I don't like is the asymmetrical shaping, which seems gratuitous. It is certainly well executed.

You describe it exactly right. How does that differ from normal envelope pocket construction?

I have to admit, I am glad they did the rounded, asymmetric shape. It is more in keeping with the character of the coat and the tailoring. I think it would have killed a little bit of the tailor's soul to use straight edges.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Foo: how heavy is the cashmere fabric used for the lining?

No idea. And I am guessing it is cashmere. Feels like it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

For reference, here is a similar pocket on an Isaia overcoat at Pitti:


Okay, this is either a good example of how bespoke can be so much better than copycat ready-to-wear or how awfully tacky Isaia is. But beyond that, it does appear that the shape of the envelope is the proper "English" way, with all straight lines and right angles. The pick-stitching is fucking obnoxious.
post #93 of 436
I haven't seen this style pocket done with 2 pipes like this. That's new to me.
Have only seen the corners symmetrical and not rounded on the bottom and less on the top corners. All four corners having the same shape is more familiar to me. I call these framed patch. Last time we made these it took over 3 hours to make 2 pockets.
post #94 of 436
Thread Starter 
Two pipes? You mean both above and below the flap? Also, other than the shape, how does the construction compare to the way you do such a pocket?
post #95 of 436
I thought framed patch pockets (which I've understood to be the same as mailbox), always have piped edges all around, no? And that the flap takes up a bigger space in the design?

post #96 of 436
Thread Starter 
I think that's just a flapped patch pocket.

Here is an illustration of an Ulster coat with envelope pockets. Notice that the flap is fully set within the boundaries of the pocket. You can even see the welt (pipe?) above the flap.

ulsterovercoat_zps41a9a1a9.jpg
post #97 of 436
My understanding is that for a flapped patch, the to top of the flap is also the top of the pocket...like this:

post #98 of 436
Thread Starter 
Yes, you're right. Then it seems we've discovered two different species of envelope/mailbox/mail-slot pocket. I would have assumed Rubinacci's version was an anomaly, but the Isaia example and vintage illustration suggest otherwise. Also, the version you posted doesn't really convey "mail slot" to me. There's no slot.
post #99 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I thought framed patch pockets (which I've understood to be the same as mailbox), always have piped edges all around, no? And that the flap takes up a bigger space in the design?


This is the way it is "supposed" to look. The version in the advertisement may be the same with what looks like a welt being stitching. The Solaro is just a flapped patch pocket.
the Isaia is really hideous. It has the same construction as Foo's but manages to look much worse.
post #100 of 436
Thread Starter 
I like mine better than the "correct" version. I swear I've seen other examples with the fully inset flap, making me believe the illustration shows a welt.
post #101 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

the Isaia is really hideous. It has the same construction as Foo's but manages to look much worse.

The pick stitching is excessive, but I like the shape.
post #102 of 436
Thread Starter 
Just found this:

172504--41718050-m750x740-u02333.jpg

Banis took a photo of his Neapolitan tailor wearing an overcoat with the same style of offending pockets. Link here.
post #103 of 436
The camel hair example here is what I'm familiar with and how we execute them.

Yes Foo, your coat has a pipe above and below the flap.
post #104 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The camel hair example here is what I'm familiar with and how we execute them.

Yes Foo, your coat has a pipe above and below the flap.

Have you seen this other variety? Is it a weird Italianism?
post #105 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Is it a weird Italianism?

I know you asked Despos, but I hope you won't mind me volunteering - I am ALMOST positive that I saw a pocket of this type at Liverano, with the piping.
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