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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 5

post #61 of 436
Also the fact that people are viewing you generally from farther away makes larger patterns on overcoats better.
post #62 of 436
That looks like a fun overcoat to have, though it must weigh a ton. But very warm, I bet. I think Mariano's gloves idea is kind of silly and that is what the hip pockets are for. Especially since any gloves suitable for the weather that that coat is made for will be pretty bulky.
While I don't love the belt width, I think there are only two things that bother me. First, I would prefer it to be a bit longer - say to shin length. Second, the collar is huge. I know why it is like that - you wanted big lapels and you wanted a closed notch so the collar would be flush with the lapels. I would have preferred you played with a notch and maybe a different collar shape (like a rounded ghillie). How does the collar look turned up? It looks like it will be well above your ears, like some sort of superhero costume. I suppose you can argue that is functional, but so is a hood. If you have time to photograph it with the lapels closed and the collar up, that would be interesting. While I am sure you won't agree with me, if you wanted to try a different collar shape , it looks like you could easily do so given how big is what you have.

It looks to me like the back pleat is meant to be that way, though I can't understand why that was the choice. It is hard to tell from the photo but it really doesn't look like it is pulling because you gained weight. But maybe it is opening because of the bulk of the cloth, which might still have a little stiffness.
Edit: I take it back - if you look at the lines of the pattern, they follow the pleat and hang at an angle. It is cut like the pleat should hang straight. If it were meant to hang open, the way it does, the lines would fall straight, but would be at an angle to the open pleat edge. I still don't think it is a result of mis-sizing - I bet the cloth is just very heavy and a little stiff and the pleats need to be pressed closed.
post #63 of 436
Thread Starter 
It does in fact weigh a ton. But man is it warm! We went for a walk through the park yesterday evening (when the picture was taken), and I only wore a OCBD underneath. Didn't even begin to get cold, despite temperatures in the 20's.

In actuality, the outer cloth is not that heavy. I believe it is either 16 or 18 oz. Mariano had to guess because there were no markings on it. But the lining is cashmere (unknown weight), so that contributes a lot of weight and warmth.

You could be onto something with the collar. However, in all fairness, my wife is a little bit shorter than me and the photo is from her perspective. From dead-on, the gorge is quite a bit lower than it appears in the photo (I would never ask for it as high as it seems). Hence, the collar looks better balanced in real life--deeper and lower, not nearly so spread outward.

When the collar is turned up, it is indeed a pretty dramatic effect. But I do like it like that. Have you seen the size of my head?

Perhaps if you keep up your Foo-stalking on the UWS you'll soon spot this getup in the wild and can judge from there.
post #64 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But the lining is cashmere (unknown weight), so that contributes a lot of weight and warmth.

Cashmere lining? That is awesome.
post #65 of 436
Normally when I read about over the top bespoke on SF I'm worried that it's going to be an absurd venture but that coat is amazing. Looks great and is fitting for it's function, good pick and work Foo.
post #66 of 436
I like the coat. Two causes contribute to the kick pleat vent opening. The fold over pleat that is held in by the belt is one. Foo, if you unbutton the belt and release the pleating the vent will straighten out some. The other is balance, short front, long back. To compensate for the pleating in the back, would shorten the back balance. This would straighten the front edge and it would hang more perpendicular. If you grab a handful of cloth at each side of the waist in back, on any coat, and pull it to the side you will see how the vent opens like this in reaction to the pulling.
It's a wonderful coat and I would only change 5 things. Main thing would be to widen the horizontal button spacing so it balances proportionally with the lapel and collar. Would add 1/2 or 3/4" to the overlap to achieve this. Subjective call but that's how I see it.
post #67 of 436
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post #68 of 436
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post #69 of 436
very nice coat
it looks very similar
to mine
post #70 of 436
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the suggestions, Chris. I noticed that why I button both middle rows of buttons (as opposed to only the lower middle one, as in the picture), everything hangs better. The buttons go completely parallel and the fronts line up perpendicular to the ground.
post #71 of 436
Foo is the new Lapo.
post #72 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

very nice coat
it looks very similar
to mine

Is that Dutch haiku?
post #73 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

Foo is the new Lapo.

 

Does that mean iammatt = Gianni? Mind blown.
post #74 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Does that mean iammatt = Gianni? Mind blown.

Ishestillmatt?

And where does whnay fit in the picture?
post #75 of 436
When you next photograph this overcoat, would you mind taking some pictures of the hip pockets, specifically, and also the pleat above the belt line? Also, the out breast pocket, if there is anything interesting about it.

Thanks
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