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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 24

post #346 of 436
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reading recommendations. Will look into them.

Ornamentation is a different sort of sin in architecture, though. Like I argued it before, it comes down to the pace and cost of technology. Modernist architecture is born from the idea that materials, know-how, and technique have advanced so explosively that they should be embraced with conviction. Ornamentation detracts from that goal because it hides the glory of our advances, which should be promoted as more "true." Yet, no one would disagree that such ornamentation nonetheless has some value. Whether useful or not, a Corinthian column communicates a cultural message. I am a big proponent of modernism because I agree we need to divorce ourselves from such ornamentation when we have powerful enough tools to do something objectively better in the net. It is ultimately a cost-benefit analysis.

I hypothesize that the difference with clothing is that we have not experienced technological advances great enough (and cheap enough) to justify shifting away from classic forms and their communicative value.
post #347 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

He also wrote another book on Why a man should be well dressed.

How is this? Have you read it, and if so, is it good?
post #348 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Straight out of 30's war footage.

Is this supposed to be a positive? Why, exactly?

In any case the coat does look very good, though I would've gone for somewhat narrower lapels -- they almost touch the sleeves. I particularly like how the pleat opens from the half belt.
post #349 of 436
Thread Starter 
No, not a positive in and of itself. But I admire many of the coats I've seen from that era. The overcoats common in today's RTW realm are either hopelessly diluted or too strange and incoherent to consider.
post #350 of 436
Fair enough. By the way, I started a thread by quoting your modernism comments:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/333582/on-why-we-like-modernist-chairs-and-houses-but-classical-clothes

I hope to return to it tonight with some thoughts.

Also, I completely agree that overcoat styles never became settled. The last one I made is three-quarter length, fly-front, slash pockets and single breasted, but with a storm collar (!). Arguably a goofy mongrel, but I think it works. The tweed large-scale herringbone I used is very similar to yours (a LL project).
post #351 of 436
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post #352 of 436
Would love to see a shot of that collar worn up -- looks like it would give fantastic protection from the cold.
post #353 of 436
There are enough different conversations going on at the same time that I don't mind shouting this out (to no one in particular)...

It makes me angry and sad that there was an OCBD made with a french front.



Those Mercer ones look like the second best batch of OCBDs ever made (after the one Geneva made me).
post #354 of 436
foo.gif, maybe you already covered this (this is a long thread) but why did Mariano want four rows of buttons as opposed to the - I believe - traditional three?
post #355 of 436
Quote:
It makes me angry and sad that there was an OCBD made with a french front.

glad to know someone else noticed this too
post #356 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

foo.gif, maybe you already covered this (this is a long thread) but why did Mariano want four rows of buttons as opposed to the - I believe - traditional three?

I have no idea. Maybe because all the photos of great coats I showed him had rows of buttons going all the way up the chest. Think it would be better with three?
post #357 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Those Mercer ones look like the second best batch of OCBDs ever made (after the one Geneva made me).

They do look pretty damn awesome.
post #358 of 436
A higher buttoning point seems more practical for a super-warm coat. so the extra row makes sense. BTW, the photos from the straight on angle make the overcoat look more normal. I don't know if you think that is a good thing , or not.
post #359 of 436
Thread Starter 
It's a good thing. It is much closer to what I see in the mirror and how I envisioned the project. Like I pointed out, the first pictures are distorted by the angle of the photo. My wife is one of the few people shorter than me, so she was pointing the camera upward a little. That makes the gorge look much higher and the collar much more horizontally oriented than they really are.

In truth, the buttoning point isn't really any higher than it would be if there were only three rows of buttons. It's at my waist (real waist). There's just another row added-on down below. Of course, that forces me to button both center rows, which does alter the look.
post #360 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I have no idea. Maybe because all the photos of great coats I showed him had rows of buttons going all the way up the chest. Think it would be better with three?

I think so - however slightly that may be.

The extra (or extra relative to how I'm Monday morning quarterbacking things) row of buttons makes it look a little more martial.

What I like most about this coat is that it doesn't look like a military surplus coat and the buttons tilt it a little back in the military direction.
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