Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 22

I like the curved yoke and called it out in another thread. It is definitely more subtle.

I guess because I don't particularly like the asymmetrical-for-the-sake-of-being-asymmetrical back yoke, it's the one I've been keeping foremost in my head when reading this thread.

I don't know of any deeper legal significance, but in ordinary English a "representation" is a description of something and a "warranty" is a promise or guarantee to do something prospectively. If you're selling something you may give a detailed or vague representation of that thing, and/or make an broad or narrow commitment to rectify problems that may arise after the sale. A bad representation is false or inaccurate, a bad warranty is unavailable or unfulfilled.

Matt, given the length of your neck, I think a one-button OCBD is actually preferable. Wasn't this one a one-button?



Also, LH cuts a long sleeve ... how often does your entire shirt cuff poke out?

Finally, it would have been great to get a full-fledged review of a Mercer & Son's semi-custom OCBD from vox before he hit the eject button. Judging by the beautifully soft roll of the collars below, there appeared to be promise...

The 'promise' portion of a merger agreement is the indemnity section, which stipulates that the seller will indemnify the buyer for losses arising out of a breach of a representation (subject to certain limitations).

Only the shitty ones.

Prevalence of Latin and Odle Englishe in a lawyer's written work seems to be inversely proportional to such lawyer's billing rate.

The expensive/experienced ones are incredibly elegant and eliminate any useless verbiage, fearing that a jury or other unsophisticated interpreter of the document could eventually misconstrue it.

It's the lackluster/inexperienced ones that love to sprinkle in whitnesseth, whereas, heretofore, "mutatis mutandis" and other words which do nothing but confuse, over-layer, and generally "cluster fuck" a document.

Regardless of political bent, Justice Scalia is a magician when it comes to eliminating useless words. The vast majority of lawyers could gain a lot but studying his style.

I'd say there's a lot more overlap between indemnity/warranty than representation/warranty. If you really wanted to make a distinction, warranty is probably more "limited" in the sense that the future promise corresponds to the state of the item at sale (e.g. manufacturing defects) whereas an indemnity can serve as insurance or security against any type of future loss. This conversation is slightly off-topic.

The mention of capes reminded me that, in Japan, one sometimes sees men wearing an Inverness, particularly--but not exclusively--with kimono. Here's a website offering one for sale. I've seen others in tailors' shop windows in tweed. A google search of インバネスコートturns up many examples. Here's one for sale at Hankyu Mens, in Umeda:


Edited by Kei-bon - 1/26/13 at 6:30pm

I was thinking more about Taub's coat with the regular yoke, as opposed to the asymmetrical version. I'm guessing most people wouldn't pick up on that detail.

Also, if people (outside of this forum) aren't picking up on foo's changes, are they picking up on the connotation of sportiness and casualness of a buttondown shirt of which he spoke at all? Probably not. A yolk, symmetrical or not, is just a detail that the coat's owner thinks looks good. I'm not sure there's any intent of the owner to convey anything to the public.

I just hope the shirt was a joke.

Interestingly, this Huntsman fox hunting jacket with the curved seam back detail was posted on the vintage thread.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/328632/the-official-vintage-clothing-and-accessories-thread/150_30#post_6083877

Foo - regarding your coat, don't try and put it into a corner by attaching classic names to it. It's too unique for that. It will forever simply be known as The Foo Coat and we all know that.

Those are side panels.  All body coats, i.e. dress coat and morning coats are cut like that.  Rarely seen nowadays except on military uniforms.  Patrol jackets, mess jackets, tunics and service jackets for certain regiments are all cut with curved side panels and waist seams, which allows for a closer fit.  I believe the earliest lounge suits were also cut like that.  If you watch Jude Law in Sherlock Holmes, his tweed suit has side panels as well.  Its far more difficult to make than a two piece back.  I would only ask a world class tailor to make a coat with side panels today.

It's actually a Fooster Originated on the UWS not Ireland.

There has always been someone on Saville Row that stretches the norms and plays with proportions and shapes, Nutter, Boateng, Taub. Some consumers see the Row as one the most boring places on earth, averse to innovation and these guys offer an alternative.

In the 90"s I made an outercoat in a very light weight that was basically just a shell. Totally made in a shirt construction. An outer wear length shirt jacket so to speak. Shirt collar, 3 button front, slash pockets, not one piece of lining, very simple. The beauty of this piece, to me, was how it rendered a different shape or style by what you wore under the coat.
If you wore a suit jacket the coat took on the shape of the jacket shoulder. If you wore it over a sweater it looked more casual. It was a very simple piece.

Show it to 10 individuals. 4 would get it and love it. 4 wouldn't grasp or care about the concept. 2 would want to embellish it with epaulets, belts, cuffs, etc., redefine it and make it something else entirely. Those last two would gravitate towards Taub.

I don't think Taub is trying to redefine classic menswear. It's like women's couture. It shows imagination and possibilities. It showcases new ideas and techniques. It appeals to those who want to dress in nonconformity and wear cutting edge thoughts on design and the unconventional. I have had clients in this category. To some it comes across as bad taste, innovation and creativity to others. Point is, it's not good or bad but unique, catering to it's singular audience.

Are Taub's design sold to anyone or are they conceptual pieces? Probably both. Some don't see value in anything that isn't unique. It's just the way some approach and value these things.

Foo's coat is a collaboration piece. If you watched O'Mast the first part of the video described this. Custom clothing as a dialogue of client and tailor. What is successful on Foo's coat is that he is wearing the coat made in accordance to his sense of proportions but executed well by Rubinacci that the coat doesn't overwhelm Foo. There are things I question and would want to experiment with on this coat but I think it works.
Taub seems to incorporate lines from women's wear. Last week I was in the Tom Ford store and there were tons of menswear details in the women's line. Similar to Alexander McQueens work. Taub seems to be doing the reverse.