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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 19

post #271 of 436
1/25/13 at 8:53am
Thread Starter 
The only thing you can do is be conscious of your own biases and be as objective as possible.
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post #272 of 436
1/25/13 at 10:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Was this made to show clients what different lapels look like?

I suspect this is just a stunt to attract some publicity...

Here is what RA itself says (http://www.richardandersonltd.com/index.php/Blog/, bottom of the page):
Quote:
As we constantly strive to offer our customers individuality in their style of dress, we often create items of clothing that break with convention.

Although every coat is asymmetric due to the placement of buttons and breast pocket, the Asymmetric takes the conventional peak and notch lapels and combine them in one garment.

The contrasting lapel styles, while different, balance the coat
and as a subtle mark of style set this coat and the wearer apart.

But this coat is terrible -- RA or not. smile.gif

Andrey
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post #273 of 436
1/25/13 at 10:19am
Thread Starter 
Just goes to show what happens when you try to 'set yourself apart'.
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post #274 of 436
1/25/13 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreyb2 View Post

Speaking on asymmetric coats... lookaround.gif



This one is from Richard Anderson.

Made for the (wise?) client who couldn't/wouldn't come down from the fence!

Quote:
Jenny points a moral with which you cannot quarrel,
Makes a lot of common sense--
Jenny and her saga prove that you're gaga
If you don't keep sitting on the fence

Jenny and her story point the way to glory
To all man and womankind
Anyone with vision comes to this decision--
Don't make up your mind

http://www.stlyrics.com/lyrics/ladyinthedark/sagaofjenny.htm
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post #275 of 436
1/25/13 at 11:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Just goes to show what happens why you to 'set yourself apart'.

 

...and you thought that Armani brought you the deconstructed coat.

 

There are of course limits to how far you can innovate with the classics before they cease to be recognisable as such. We have potential caricature.

 

I don't advocate a free for all. I understand what you are trying to say, where we differ, I think is that my limits are probably a little further out from the core than yours.

 

Remember, there must have been some tinkering for evolution to have occurred.

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post #276 of 436
1/25/13 at 3:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Was this made to show clients what different lapels look like?

The thing is, if it weren't Richard Anderson who designed it, and if it weren't Davide Taub who designed the asymmetrical stuff posted earlier, I think many of you would judge very differently.

Actually, I think you have it ass-backwards, at least with regardi to Taub. I think tthe only reason that most of the people around here know about him is because of his unusual designs. Otherwise he would one of many anonymous SR cutters.
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post #277 of 436
1/25/13 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreyb2 View Post

Speaking on asymmetric coats... lookaround.gif



This one is from Richard Anderson.

Andrey

This would look pretty cool if you had the head of Two Face, however.
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post #278 of 436
1/25/13 at 5:11pm

Thanks to the OP, this has got to be my favorite thread.

 

One day when I can afford some of the gorgeous bespoke goodies here I will also be lucky enough to contribute.

 

Thanks to everyone for a wonderful thread.
 

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post #279 of 436
1/25/13 at 9:02pm
Thread Starter 
Bringing the thread back to the original subject . . .

Manton and I were earlier today discussing the taxonomy of overcoats and other tailored outerwear. What the hell would you say this overcoat is?

A modified, gentrified great coat? An Ulster or polo coat? An extended pea coat? An unnamable chimera? Interested to hear you thoughts and reasoning. If this takes off, we can start a more general overcoat thread. Let's see if this forum is still worth something.
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post #280 of 436
1/26/13 at 1:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Bringing the thread back to the original subject . . .

Manton and I were earlier today discussing the taxonomy of overcoats and other tailored outerwear. What the hell would you say this overcoat is?

A modified, gentrified great coat? An Ulster or polo coat? An extended pea coat? An unnamable chimera? Interested to hear you thoughts and reasoning. If this takes off, we can start a more general overcoat thread. Let's see if this forum is still worth something.


This is tricky question to answer.

 

Putting it simply, for me, its when something retains enough of the original features for me to identify it as belonging to a particular type.

 

I would describe your coat as a 'modified, gentrified great coat' It retains enough of the original DNA for me identify its particular type.

 

Others may disagree.

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post #281 of 436
1/26/13 at 6:03am
In my mind, I would classify that somewhere in the family of an Ulster coat, based on the lapels, it being double breasted, the half-belt, and its being of tweed.

Would love a broader overcoat thread--its a very interesting topic as it can vary more than perhaps any other piece of modern menswear.
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post #282 of 436
1/26/13 at 6:19am
http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ulster/
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post #283 of 436
1/26/13 at 6:33am

Original military Great Coat. British Armed Forces spec:

 

This time in Air Force Blue:

 

Front:

 

 

Back:

 

 

 

A slightly modified Version:

 

Front:

 

 

 

Back:

 

Modern take:

 

Front:

 

 

Back:

 

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post #284 of 436
1/26/13 at 7:29am
It's an Ulster - said that from page 1, mafoo.
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post #285 of 436
1/26/13 at 7:31am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

It's an Ulster - said that from page 1, mafoo.

Reasoning?

What's a great coat?
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