Originally Posted by mafoofan
[...]The problem with the Taub coats posted here is not that they include new features. It's that those new features are bad. They are bad in terms of classic menswear because the value of such clothing is intrinsically tied to its classic-ness. There is very little good reason to wear a tie or to have lapels and a breast pocket anymore. It is just as there is no particularly good reason we say "hello" to greet people in English--other than that is what we have always done and it is well-understood by others. Hence, reckless expansion of the classic menswear language would only eat away at what makes it a worthwhile venture to begin with. Funny back yokes are reckless because they have neither a functional purpose, any clear aesthetic message, nor any apparent grounding in classic norms. It's like making up a new word without a defined meaning. Just guttural noise. [...]
Those features are only bad too you, others may like them. There is always some subjectivity.
A question if I may. Why did you show the coat to your tailor as an example of what you were looking for if you didn't like it. When I re-read your post I was left with the impression that you actually liked the coat but your tailors opinion changed your mind, hence your mention of his opinion.
Its interesting that you 'attack', Taub's yoke treatment yet do not see the similarity between Taub's approach and that of your own tailor. In Taub's case he has added a fancy yoke, in Rubinacci's he has deviated from the traditional pocket style and added other features not normally associated with the style. Are you suggesting that it is OK for your tailor to deviate, innovate, update but not another? Actually, I think that out of the two coats, Taub's remains truest to the original, that is, the classic great coat.
I understand why you feel the need to 'build a wall' around 'classic dress'. You do need boundaries or else the term 'classic dress' ceases to have any real meaning. The problem is, that at the periphery, there isn't a clear demarcation its more fuzzy than that.