or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 13

post #181 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

Well, I think there's a little bit of a designer in every tailor and in the early days the tailor was the designer.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The yoke is just a decorative feature. As to it saying "I am a Taub" doesn't a house style do the same thing? Rubinacci have a distinctive cut that announces "I am a Rubinacci" does it not?

Back treatments like this aren't new, take a look at some of the old pictures of sports coats from the 30's. You'll find a bewildering range of back treatments, some functional like a bi-swing others purely decorative

Here is a pattern Taub's created for a jacket with a curved yoke amongst over features.





Don't be put off by these types of tailors, there's a tendency to think that they can't cut a conservative business suit. Most of their business is likely to be such business suits.

In some ways though they are the very definition of bespoke tailoring, in that they are flexible and willing to collaborate with the customer to make something unique and special, like Rubinacci did with your coat.

I understand that. But I think you can very safely distinguish between modifying the lines of a cut from adding features, details, lines, etc. that were never there to begin with. Also, to be clear, I would never object to using a tailor merely because he displays a few "signature" things I don't like. Taub's work looks really great--I just don't like the back yoke.
post #182 of 436
Quote:

Here's another take, by the English tailor Davide Taub.

He himself pronounces his name in [kind of] French, that says a lot! Jokes aside, he has an excellent reputation, especially for someone being that 'young'.
Edited by Cravate_Noire - 1/23/13 at 4:05pm
post #183 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


[...]But I think you can very safely distinguish between modifying the lines of a cut from adding features, details, lines, etc. that were never there to begin with.[...]

The evolution of tailored clothing isn't just a matter of modifying lines though, it also includes both the addition and deletion of features.

 

We'd still be wearing frock coats if this wasn't the case.

post #184 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

The evolution of tailored clothing isn't just a matter of modifying lines though, it also includes both the addition and deletion of features.

We'd still be wearing frock coats if this wasn't the case.

And as a client, one must discriminate between such "features" that are meaningful improvements and those that will appear silly after a few months or years of use. For reasons already discussed, I don't like Taub's back yoke detail because I think it is much more the latter than the former.
post #185 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post
 
Jokes aside, he has an excellent reputation, especially for someone being that 'young'.

 

+1 - I was tempted to try Gieves solely because of Taube's presence. Luckily for my wallet, he doesn't travel across the Atlantic.

post #186 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

And as a client, one must discriminate between such "features" that are meaningful improvements and those that will appear silly after a few months or years of use. For reasons already discussed, I don't like Taub's back yoke detail because I think it is much more the latter than the former.

I'm not sure why we're looking at it as anything more than a design detail. Though I enjoy classic tailored clothing, some people want a bit more edge to their style. Anything else will be boring to them right out of the box, let alone a few months or years from now.

More of Taub's work, taken from a friend's blog.




post #187 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

More of Taub's work, taken from a friend's blog.


excellent
post #188 of 436
Thread Starter 
Have to say, that doesn't make me like Taub's work any more.

I think when it comes to the realm of classic men's clothing, it is always important to question these sorts of newfangled "design details." After all, what is the reason for dressing the way we do, as opposed to they way they do over on SW&D? Is it really just because we like things to be "made better?" Then what's with all the suits and ties?

I like classic men's clothing because it is a highly developed language. You can say a lot with it so long as you learn how to use the words. Thus, adding to the vocabulary should never be taken lightly.
post #189 of 436
I like classic clothing because I like the look, but I can't say it's any different than why someone else likes another aesthetic. To me, this is like arguing whether or not jazz is better than classical or something. Some people like some music, others like other kinds of music. And each form will have its own rules and principles. I agree Taub is adding stuff that shouldn't be added in classic clothing, but he's also not working with that spirit in mind.

I think I've said this elsewhere, but I also like his stuff even if I personally wouldn't wear it, just as I like art that I personally wouldn't want hung in my house.
post #190 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Have to say, that doesn't make me like Taub's work any more.

I think when it comes to the realm of classic men's clothing, it is always important to question these sorts of newfangled "design details." After all, what is the reason for dressing the way we do, as opposed to they way they do over on SW&D? Is it really just because we like things to be "made better?" Then what's with all the suits and ties?

I like classic men's clothing because it is a highly developed language. You can say a lot with it so long as you learn how to use the words. Thus, adding to the vocabulary should never be taken lightly.

Social convention and because they like the clothes?

You are one of the least costume-y people on this forum. For you, that means fastidious dedication to conservative clothing; you wear what you like. For others it means wearing nice stuff with nice design.
post #191 of 436
Thread Starter 
The only thing preventing me from putting any art I like in my house is that I cannot afford it. smile.gif

You have successfully distinguished between two different viewpoints: (1) one way of dress is better than another (at least in some particular ways), and (2) all ways of dress are equally valid, so it just a matter of subjective preference. However, that doesn't settle which is closer to the truth. No one can ever prove one over the other, but as with so many other similar situations, I choose to act as if the former is true. I'd rather always be hunting to improve, even when I must commit to educated guesses, than simply settle on a world where everything is different in meaningless ways.
post #192 of 436
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

Social convention and because they like the clothes?

You are one of the least costume-y people on this forum. For you, that means fastidious dedication to conservative clothing; you wear what you like. For others it means wearing nice stuff with nice design.

I mean this in all sincerity: that's maybe the highest praise you could give me! Thank you.
post #193 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

You have successfully distinguished between two different viewpoints: (1) one way of dress is better than another (at least in some particular ways), and (2) all ways of dress are equally valid, so it just a matter of subjective preference. However, that doesn't settle which is closer to the truth. No one can ever prove one over the other, but as with so many other similar situations, I choose to act as if the former is true. I'd rather always be hunting to improve, even when I must commit to educated guesses, than simply settle on a world where everything is different in meaningless ways.

It's not about the validity of a certain method of dress, it's about doing what you do well.
post #194 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by nate10184 View Post

Is this the fabric you went with? Doesn't look like a herringbone in these pics but its probably just the distance/resolution.


Cashmere lining? Aggressive. Reckless? I've found the lining of my overcoats to be the thing most prone to wearing out, out of my whole wardrobe. Cashmere is not a hard-wearing fabric. Good cashmere wears much better than bad cashmere, but still...

In my (cashmere) Loro Piana coat, the lining is 85% cotton, 15% cashmere, and I'm glad it's that mix vs. 100% cashmere, because I'd worry about wearing it out.

Good luck!

P.S. And cashmere is not slick - A lot of friction on the lining as you put the coat on and take it off...
post #195 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

The only thing preventing me from putting any art I like in my house is that I cannot afford it. smile.gif

You have successfully distinguished between two different viewpoints: (1) one way of dress is better than another (at least in some particular ways), and (2) all ways of dress are equally valid, so it just a matter of subjective preference. However, that doesn't settle which is closer to the truth. No one can ever prove one over the other, but as with so many other similar situations, I choose to act as if the former is true. I'd rather always be hunting to improve, even when I must commit to educated guesses, than simply settle on a world where everything is different in meaningless ways.

I really like Goya, but there's no way I would want one of his creepier pieces in my hallway.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION