Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 12

Quote:

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

Yeah, I saw that one back when I put in my order. I actually showed the photos to Mariano to give him an idea of the kind of coat I wanted, though I was clear I wanted very different detailing. He did not like what he saw. If I recall correctly, he winced at the back yoke.

Taub adds this curved yoke detail to some of the jackets he makes too, I think he's trying to create a kind of signature feature if you like. I think this is something his clients request, as opposed to a default offering.

I'm not keen myself, but obviously some like it and it is bespoke after all.

I quite like the originality of Taube's work. I'm tired of seeing the same old 6x2 DB overcoats, and 2-button SB jackets. I applaud his willingness to think (and tailor) out of the box.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

Is there any function to it?

I generally hate when tailors play fashion designer. I mean, to some extent, every tailor must make his own design decisions. Yet, it seems much of the time the impetus is to do something better or do it the "right" way or simply to solve a problem. That back yoke detail appears to reflect no such motive, but is just there to say "This is a Taub!"

Well, I think there's a little bit of a designer in every tailor and in the early days the tailor was the designer.

The yoke is just a decorative feature. As to it saying "I am a Taub" doesn't a house style do the same thing? Rubinacci have a distinctive cut that announces "I am a Rubinacci" does it not?

Back treatments like this aren't new, take a look at some of the old pictures of sports coats from the 30's. You'll find a bewildering range of back treatments, some functional like a bi-swing others purely decorative

Here is a pattern Taub's created for a jacket with a curved yoke amongst over features.

Don't be put off by these types of tailors, there's a tendency to think that they can't cut a conservative business suit. Most of their business is likely to be such business suits.

In some ways though they are the very definition of bespoke tailoring, in that they are flexible and willing to collaborate with the customer to make something unique and special, like Rubinacci did with your coat.